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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Between the zero road feel and wandering steering making it impossible to carve a curve, crappy clutch and linkage, feeling every bump, nook and cranny of the road and even more while trying to take a turn while feeling actual bits of vertical play in the steering wheel on top of inconsistent turbo lag, acceleration and lumpiness of said random acceleration, along with 100% worthless gadgets like the 3 way steering that only make those problems worse in anything but Sport mode, and an utterly garbage factory stereo, I'm nearly 100% disappointed in my '16 F5 SX. Think THAT'S a run on sentence? I could have added horrible brown headlights that go against everything the car stands for and not even a freaking donut spare included when one of the loud, roaring 40 series tires popped on a pothole barely 2000 miles into it's life. It's needs a Stage 0 tune just to run right but that's $379 and will void your warranty but you can try to hide it if you drop another $300 for a spare ECU, or go with an updated factory tune that I hear drops the HP to 180, or maybe a new MAP sensor not even meant for it might help too. Then again a $30 set of subframe braces can help the handling feel somewhat, what freaking else would I have to spend to make it worth driving?

The ONLY positive things are it is the PERFECT size car and MPG's are actually better than I thought, but I could be wrong there too since the computer is probably too optimistic, I've forgotten to check it manually but still pretty crappy with it's far too short 6th gear meant for a car that, you know, is worth driving around in a zippy manner.

I'm stuck in a long term loan that I will probably be upside down in for a long time to even trade it in, I don't know what to do at this point. I figured by the 3rd year of the 2nd generation that these issues would be minimal to non-existent! (
 

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Danbfree - install the rigid collar kit and you'll have a very worthwhile upgrade to handling and cures for the problems you've mentioned.. Project on the side - while delayed slightly - I've asked 6thEEE to help make available 85 durometer front sway bar bushings - then we'll have excellent handling.

My KOUP starts and runs just fine - don't know how to respond to your engine trouble.

Where did you "hear" this (exact quote) - "or go with an updated factory tune that I hear drops the HP to 180" - did someone dyno it after the tune?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Danbfree - install the rigid collar kit and you'll have a very worthwhile upgrade to handling and cures for the problems you've mentioned.. Project on the side - while delayed slightly - I've asked 6thEEE to help make available 85 durometer front sway bar bushings - then we'll have excellent handling.

My KOUP starts and runs just fine - don't know how to respond to your engine trouble.

Where did you "hear" this (exact quote) - "or go with an updated factory tune that I hear drops the HP to 180" - did someone dyno it after the tune?
So, I do hear the tork collars help, but really, that much? And if Kia is trying to compete in the hot hatch market why is at like this even on the SX model? It starts and runs smooth with its too quiet restrictive exhaust, but acceleration and how much lag varies, a common complaint among reviews, is it 0-60 in 6.5 or 7.5, what the hell? And I get like uneven lumpy acceleration with about a third throttle coming into the midrange. I saw on a thread here somewhere that they brought it in and they said an ECU update was available but lowered boost and overall HP to 180. and I have a feeling even stiffer bushings would only increase what I'm complaining about, it's like a car with 100k miles and the control arms are going and the rack and pinion has developed play... One positive is perfect ride height with nice wheels and a great looking car, looks like a Lexus CT200H but with a peppy turbo motor... So maybe I need to break it in more, I've tried premium fuel, E0 92 octane, I'm thinking the factory tune just blows. I can understand rating a car for regular but how can a turbo car not really take advantage of premium fuel, my non turbo focus was even able to...
 

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the prospect of the car is in its driving. i would start with the cdv delete $25.
use my DIY and try it out. you will feel a lot better about the sweet spot.
small things that i've been doing have made me feel a little better about the car.
i think the 3 piece evilla set would make a huge difference too $300 ish?
start with the collars and when you feel that little difference, the 3 piece will be even better.
i sort of want this more than an intake haha.
i'm personally trying to get the throttle plate to complete the 60mm throttle swap and coolant bypass.
also working on funds for mechanical boost gauge and the audiocontrol sound processor.
even tork people keep telling us that it wont be fun to drive until its tuned.
don't give up until you ask those who have got the tune. they all have said it was night and day difference.
 

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For the curves, Tork collars (yes they really help that much for the slop), evilla stuff, tires, and a good alignment which I think the factory specs partially cause the wondering feeling.

For the drivability, CDV delete, and torque mount, map sensor.

For the radio, I think you are in another thread, but if not, upgraded the nav to a pioneer 4200, upgraded the tweets and added a sub. Sub and tweets were less than 200 and the head unit really made the factory speakers come alive. In fact I am thinking about adding tweets to the back (they are only 25 bucks for some decent ones) and calling it done.





These are all things I have done and I still enjoy driving my car. I don't even mind taking my wife snacks at 4am cause it drives that much better. I also have an intake which I have a love hate relationship with (better now that I made it a Cai) which opened up the top end. But I will say my wife's optima gets better gas mileage but barely edges me out in acceleration. Hers is stock.

No car I have ever owned had started stock. My first car IROCZ had 5 different motors and 2 transmissions (changing it from auto to manual), my WRX I regeared as well tuned and turbo and blah blah. Maxima had coil overs. Every single car had something done. I do it cause it's a learning experience and it makes it mine and allies me to fill in the places I find deficent. So don't get discouraged, upgrade where and when you can. Remember these cars are not expensive Bentley's custom ordered to your specs. It's a Kia which in all fairness in a good car with a good warranty and is very value minded.
 

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But guys... you forget one thing.

That supposed to be a HOT HATCH.
It supposed to compete with GTI, for instance.
Yet, GTI not only offers more power, it is well better refined.

Therefore, if I must modify so many things in the car to make it usable, why would I even bother getting KIA? VW would give me 2.0T with DSG or 6 MT. I agree, completely, that the manual in KIA is very short geared. 6th gear is a mistake. Throttle response - very bad. MAP in my case did not help at all. Many times, many reports, myself included - lack of boost or limited power. I am not sure about VW owners, but when I was on the VW GTI forum I did not find complaints about such issue.

Sure, I would spend much more on GTI, but on the other hand - the time and money I need to spend on SX to get it to match stock GTI brings me even with the GTI or even beyond. And at that point it is modified car.

So I guess, suck it up. KIA is less expensive. You can get a brand new SX for $20k with the longest warranty on the market. Currently 2016 SX with MT can be purchased for 16-18k OTD. GTI - about 7-10 more... It is one of those - you get what you pay for.


There is one thing, though.
KIA Forte SX is a "sleeper". Many "stronger" cars are surprised when they get bitten by SX. GTI - it is clear it is quick and strong. SX - not many know that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I did the intercooler resonator delete already, not sure that I notice anything, is this what you mean by "cdv"? but if I feel stuck with the car I'll try the tork collars next, but I'm still left with a number of issues... So if I feel it's too many to overcome I'll try to trade it in in something else after a year, it's just too bad I'd miss the excellent styling if I had to go maybe lightly used GTI. Thanks for the ideas everyone.
 

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Well, I did the intercooler resonator delete already, not sure that I notice anything, is this what you mean by "cdv"? but if I feel stuck with the car I'll try the tork collars next, but I'm still left with a number of issues... So if I feel it's too many to overcome I'll try to trade it in in something else after a year, it's just too bad I'd miss the excellent styling if I had to go maybe lightly used GTI. Thanks for the ideas everyone.
If you get a VW, used or new, get ready for EXPENSIVE repairs when they occur. Before you give up on handling, did you and will you be installing the rear sway bar?
 

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CDV delete is the clutch delay valve delete.

It's a little dampener in the clutch line that limits fluid travel to limit drivetrain shock and help inexperienced drivers drive stick but also prevents an inconsistent and "numb" clutch pedal feeling.

I've had it done for a year come this July and love the mod.

As for 6th, I used to bitch about how short it was but now Ive just forgotten and live with it. Doesn't bother me any more.

I'd actually say the super short 1st gear bugs me more but again, I've kinda forgotten about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
For the curves, Tork collars (yes they really help that much for the slop), evilla stuff, tires, and a good alignment which I think the factory specs partially cause the wondering feeling.

For the drivability, CDV delete, and torque mount, map sensor.

For the radio, I think you are in another thread, but if not, upgraded the nav to a pioneer 4200, upgraded the tweets and added a sub. Sub and tweets were less than 200 and the head unit really made the factory speakers come alive. In fact I am thinking about adding tweets to the back (they are only 25 bucks for some decent ones) and calling it done.





These are all things I have done and I still enjoy driving my car. I don't even mind taking my wife snacks at 4am cause it drives that much better. I also have an intake which I have a love hate relationship with (better now that I made it a Cai) which opened up the top end. But I will say my wife's optima gets better gas mileage but barely edges me out in acceleration. Hers is stock.

No car I have ever owned had started stock. My first car IROCZ had 5 different motors and 2 transmissions (changing it from auto to manual), my WRX I regeared as well tuned and turbo and blah blah. Maxima had coil overs. Every single car had something done. I do it cause it's a learning experience and it makes it mine and allies me to fill in the places I find deficent. So don't get discouraged, upgrade where and when you can. Remember these cars are not expensive Bentley's custom ordered to your specs. It's a Kia which in all fairness in a good car with a good warranty and is very value minded.
Yep, I'm the guy who spent $400 on "upgrading" all 4 of my speakers and am not real happy, I should have done head unit first with that cash... But as far as CDV I've heard there are downsides too, but I'll read up on it more, but I think the point is I'm already tired of hearing how many little things I have to do just to make it enjoyable, but if I feel I'm stuck in this loan I'll have no choice but to try to tackle them one at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
CDV delete is the clutch delay valve delete.

It's a little dampener in the clutch line that limits fluid travel to limit drivetrain shock and help inexperienced drivers drive stick but also prevents an inconsistent and "numb" clutch pedal feeling.

I've had it done for a year come this July and love the mod.

As for 6th, I used to bitch about how short it was but now Ive just forgotten and live with it. Doesn't bother me any more.

I'd actually say the super short 1st gear bugs me more but again, I've kinda forgotten about it.
Ya, I've heard negative things about the CDV and I already stall it once in a while, definitely not as easy or smooth to launch as my old G20 with an NA 2.0, nor even as much as my old Talon with AWD turbo you would think would be hard to launch, nope, easier than this thing.
 

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Hello, I'm sorry you feel disappointed with your purchase. Everyone here has given you suggestions to help improve the little things that they/we have found and spent the same/more amount of money to mod/tune out cars. We also help the community by posting personal builds so you can see and read what we've done to help improve the car, show you how to do bigger turbo upgrades and will always try to answer your questions with facts and true testimonies. I too was disappointed in the acceleration and a few things but spending 30-35 on a map boost sensor which fixes the issue of inconsistent power. You've listed solutions already in your post to see if they really work for us and we assure you they do. Otherwise we all driving your car lying to you hoping you don't catch on and waste your money lol. Look you seem like a cool guy just irritated by the fact you may need to spend a little more cash. It's ok tho, money is made to be spent. It's how we spend it that matters. Pour your heart into your happiness and be happy. Idk how much of a car person you are but I enjoy dropping money on my car. I have a wide body kit I'm ordering this weekend and my engine doesn't even have all the bolt ons yet. This is running me 544.00 plus other things I'm purchasing aren't cheap but I like the idea of driving a daily driven show car. Well atleast that's where I want to be like Joe and his cool ass black and teal Koup. Check our builds out and the DIY section. You'll be surprised and I hope it changes your attitude about our cars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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What negative things have you heard about it?

I drove about 10,000 kms with the CDV, and then another 15,000 kms without it. And I never want to put it back in.

I vividly remember being in bumper to bumper traffic trying to creep forward (with gas) and the delay in the clutch would cause me to buck like crazy.

Since it's been gone, I don't get this anymore. The clutch does what my foot does - no delay or hesitation and I always know when it will engage.

And I'm super picky when I drive stick. I only wear 2 different pairs of shoes when I drive, either my work shoes in the summer or my summer casual shoes in the winter, and then switch into boots when I got out of the car.

I refuse to drive in boots, steel toes, flip flops etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you get a VW, used or new, get ready for EXPENSIVE repairs when they occur. Before you give up on handling, did you and will you be installing the rear sway bar?
My last car was an '06 Audi A4, that's why I'm in a Kia now, the wife said get a new car with a warranty or it was me out the door! LOL... but ya, you gotta get one with low miles, stay on top of the maintenance and like we do here, use the message boards to find DIY fixes and learn which are the best aftermarket parts, etc... but man, I'm definitely missing that German car drive, that's for sure...

So for this car, I'll do tork collars next, and you suggest a rear sway bar over torsion bar, those are 2 different things right? I'm coming from fully independent suspension previously so this was never a concern, butt ya, the rear end is pretty bad not being fully independent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What negative things have you heard about it?

I drove about 10,000 kms with the CDV, and then another 15,000 kms without it. And I never want to put it back in.

I vividly remember being in bumper to bumper traffic trying to creep forward (with gas) and the delay in the clutch would cause me to buck like crazy.

Since it's been gone, I don't get this anymore. The clutch does what my foot does - no delay or hesitation and I always know when it will engage.

And I'm super picky when I drive stick. I only wear 2 different pairs of shoes when I drive, either my work shoes in the summer or my summer casual shoes in the winter, and then switch into boots when I got out of the car.

I refuse to drive in boots, steel toes, flip flops etc.
OK, good to hear, I'll definitely look into this... and maybe I should have dealer re-adjust my linkage, coming up on 3000 miles and it doesn't seem right, grinding gears more than I have EVER in my life including as a teen with my first manual...
 

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But to also comment a few things on your post I can relate to how you feel.

I too went through a phase where I wasn't convinced I made the right purchase. All the things you state - steering, awful flippin audio, clutch engagement. But at the end of the day in Canadian pesos I made out with this Kia for 10k cheaper than a GTI, Focus ST etc.

I fixed the clutch engagement with a $35 part. I can fix the audio with about a $750 investment, I'm told the steering can be fixed with certain mods. All of this totals much less than 10k.

The way I see it - yes I could have paid 10k to have all this done for me, but I chose this car and ofcourse want to fix all this stuff, and I can do that by learning this platform and get it done for a fraction of the cost.

Plus it's so unique. I've had the car for a year and a half and have only see 2 F5 SX and 2 Koup SX. It's a rare car, and I love that uniqueness.

The only current complaint that doesn't seem to be fixable or out of the ordinary (according to the dealer) is my gritty, crunchy shifts into 3rd and 5th. It does take away from the driving experience I'll admit. But I'm only 25% through my warranty and only installing mods I can take off with ease before visiting the dealer.

I'm not brave enough to get tuned yet or install a FMIC, DP etc.
 

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I just saw this post after mine... Tell me more about your shifting issues as I too have some as well.
 

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check out our MAP sensor thread but if your not convinced read more responses from velosters thread too
Map sensor update
i just ordered mine today from korea off ebay genuine part $39 gonna be a good wait though
OEM 3930084400 Boost Pressure Sensor Sportage 2007-2010 Picanto 2005-2011 | eBay

with regards to shifting, i think i've noticed the engagement to be a little more notchy after changing the fluid from stock to redline.
maybe it needs a break-in period. also have noticed that when i get a little too comfortable with the clutch, sometimes i let off too soon and grind.
i hardly ever stall anymore and very rarely grind a gear. i wouldn't say the CDV delete had any negative impact other than just getting use to not having the delay.
 
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My last car was an '06 Audi A4, that's why I'm in a Kia now, the wife said get a new car with a warranty or it was me out the door! LOL... but ya, you gotta get one with low miles, stay on top of the maintenance and like we do here, use the message boards to find DIY fixes and learn which are the best aftermarket parts, etc... but man, I'm definitely missing that German car drive, that's for sure...

So for this car, I'll do tork collars next, and you suggest a rear sway bar over torsion bar, those are 2 different things right? I'm coming from fully independent suspension previously so this was never a concern, butt ya, the rear end is pretty bad not being fully independent.
The metal bar that is attached on the bottom of the rear suspension is a "torsion bar". Torsion means "twisting via torque". The apparent visible result is that the car "sways" less. So some call them "anti-sway bars". They are the same thing.
Independent rear suspension does not relieve you of swaying and body pitch incidentally.
There is also a polyurethane bushing kit for our cars rear and c-arms: SuperPro Suspension Parts and Poly Bushings for KIA CERATO TD - 2009-on
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hello, I'm sorry you feel disappointed with your purchase. Everyone here has given you suggestions to help improve the little things that they/we have found and spent the same/more amount of money to mod/tune out cars. We also help the community by posting personal builds so you can see and read what we've done to help improve the car, show you how to do bigger turbo upgrades and will always try to answer your questions with facts and true testimonies. I too was disappointed in the acceleration and a few things but spending 30-35 on a map boost sensor which fixes the issue of inconsistent power. You've listed solutions already in your post to see if they really work for us and we assure you they do. Otherwise we all driving your car lying to you hoping you don't catch on and waste your money lol. Look you seem like a cool guy just irritated by the fact you may need to spend a little more cash. It's ok tho, money is made to be spent. It's how we spend it that matters. Pour your heart into your happiness and be happy. Idk how much of a car person you are but I enjoy dropping money on my car. I have a wide body kit I'm ordering this weekend and my engine doesn't even have all the bolt ons yet. This is running me 544.00 plus other things I'm purchasing aren't cheap but I like the idea of driving a daily driven show car. Well atleast that's where I want to be like Joe and his cool ass black and teal Koup. Check our builds out and the DIY section. You'll be surprised and I hope it changes your attitude about our cars.
Thank you for the genuinely nice comment, I feel a little better already and am glad I have this community... I'll do the MAP and CDV so even if the MAP doesn't ADD power, a smoother and more consistent delivery would be great... I see your other mods too, what else are the better "bang for the buck" ones? I'd like to do intake but just can't risk warranty issues with a catch can and all... what do you think about a custom midpipe with 2nd cat delete, but also don't want TOO much added sound...
 
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