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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To the guys who have done mods to their cars, I have no doubt you have some regrets in hindsight. That said, are there any that you wish you went differently?

I know SXTH is very popular here since he's very active and his stuff is very highly vouched for. Same for Tork. I've seen around the web a lot of people running 845 Motorsport stuff as well.

Came across this video:


And it doesn't sound too bad. I already have a muffler delete. I'm wondering if their DP is good or if anyone has anything to say (good or bad) about their products. As well, is it legal to run catless in Ontario?
 

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for me downpipe upgrade would be only to increase the spool whine. I do not want coffee can exhaust or drone like sound on highway.
Low rumble would be nice, but that is almost covered by OEM exhaust.

Pops from time to time sound like fun, but that is rather tune than exhaust itself.

So from the video I get only loud exhaust that dominates and does not allow turbo spool to be heard.
But that is my point of view.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i'm on stock but XE has one that's nice
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTX9ArHlZW2/?taken-by=xenonelement
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTT9awolIBB/?taken-by=xenonelement
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTX4GxIFFFx/?taken-by=xenonelement

there's some info here on FT forums but i've noticed a wealth of info on VT forums if you search
When they say HF anything, I guess they mean High flow and cat-less are interchangeable? I don't think I can run cat-less in my area. Might go to jail if a cop pulls me over for it so that's definitely a no-no.

I read a few posts on that instgram link you provided. XE says the 3" version will be cheaper than the 2.5"? lolwut? I thought more material means more cost? There's also the idea that smaller engines get hampered by big piping, i.e bigger exhausts mainly if you're not pushing out a lot of displacement but that may be for NA engines not turbos.

Is 3" too big or just right for our application?

Would a 3" DP be negated if you went 2.5" exhaust and vice versa? I've just been ingrained into thinking too big piping will result in loss of back pressure or something like that. That's what I've been told by "the internet".
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
for me downpipe upgrade would be only to increase the spool whine. I do not want coffee can exhaust or drone like sound on highway.
Low rumble would be nice, but that is almost covered by OEM exhaust.

Pops from time to time sound like fun, but that is rather tune than exhaust itself.

So from the video I get only loud exhaust that dominates and does not allow turbo spool to be heard.
But that is my point of view.
That's right on the money. I'm more about the sound as well. The deleted muffler will be remedied once I have time and funds to get it sorted. The highway drone gets old real fast; the only time I like it is in the tunnels where my immature side takes over. I'm definitely all about the turbo spool though and if a downpipes can increase some ponies and give that spool more presence, sign me up.

Guess I'll get the exhaust done first then do the downpipe later.
 

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I would stay away from Tork and their downpipe. A guy just posted about his on the facebook group, and it had cracked along one of the pie cuts. Their welds weren't even complete. It was only 1 year old. Sxth, 845 and XE are all good choices, but I would avoid Torks.
 

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When they say HF anything, I guess they mean High flow and cat-less are interchangeable? I don't think I can run cat-less in my area. Might go to jail if a cop pulls me over for it so that's definitely a no-no.

I read a few posts on that instgram link you provided. XE says the 3" version will be cheaper than the 2.5"? lolwut? I thought more material means more cost? There's also the idea that smaller engines get hampered by big piping, i.e bigger exhausts mainly if you're not pushing out a lot of displacement but that may be for NA engines not turbos.

Is 3" too big or just right for our application?

Would a 3" DP be negated if you went 2.5" exhaust and vice versa? I've just been ingrained into thinking too big piping will result in loss of back pressure or something like that. That's what I've been told by "the internet".
yeah HF is high flow as XE is all about increasing flow numbers etc and in case where your from they are strict you can get it catted for extra.
i couldn't tell you why bigger is cheaper but in some applications bigger isn't necessarily better and can actually hurt performance.
like with exhaust when too big you will experience loss of pressure and backfiring. same with hot pipe if its too big it hurts the flow at least thats what trdtoy said.
i don't think it matters if downpipe is bigger to small exhaust as long as its not smaller to bigger cause then it could become a bottleneck.
our stock exhaust already tapers and gets smaller going to the back anyway so i'd imagine it would be okay.
you may want to consider 2.5 exhaust to open up the flow more for the downpipe and gut the 2nd cat as its just extra.
if your still interested talk with XE and i would suggest reading up at VT forum before buying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah HF is high flow as XE is all about increasing flow numbers etc and in case where your from they are strict you can get it catted for extra.
i couldn't tell you why bigger is cheaper but in some applications bigger isn't necessarily better and can actually hurt performance.
like with exhaust when too big you will experience loss of pressure and backfiring. same with hot pipe if its too big it hurts the flow at least thats what trdtoy said.
i don't think it matters if downpipe is bigger to small exhaust as long as its not smaller to bigger cause then it could become a bottleneck.
our stock exhaust already tapers and gets smaller going to the back anyway so i'd imagine it would be okay.
you may want to consider 2.5 exhaust to open up the flow more for the downpipe and gut the 2nd cat as its just extra.
if your still interested talk with XE and i would suggest reading up at VT forum before buying.
From what I can tell, it's still in prototyping stages, no? Judging by the pictures alone they do look like good shit.

I'll try and read up on some VT guys and what they're doing. Regarding Tork, there has been a lot of talk about their craftsmanship or reliability but they tune a lot of cars so the sampling pool is larger than most and the chances of something going wrong is that much higher.
 

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From what I can tell, it's still in prototyping stages, no? Judging by the pictures alone they do look like good shit.

I'll try and read up on some VT guys and what they're doing. Regarding Tork, there has been a lot of talk about their craftsmanship or reliability but they tune a lot of cars so the sampling pool is larger than most and the chances of something going wrong is that much higher.
i thought they were past that point but i can ask him. i believe you have to contact them to order one.
with regards to tork, from what i've read, they are good about no cel but craftsmanship was a concern. i don't know about their current version.
here is a thread with recent posts with good info on DP's from VT:
Question on DP install
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i thought they were past that point but i can ask him. i believe you have to contact them to order one.
with regards to tork, from what i've read, they are good about no cel but craftsmanship was a concern. i don't know about their current version.
here is a thread with recent posts with good info on DP's from VT:
Question on DP install

Definitely not a DIY it seems. I think it's probably best I order one and bring it into the shop to have it done along with my exhaust system all in one go.
 

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In the limited dyno's available between the 2, the biggest gains were seen as downpipe/catless... As in HF catted made less than half the extra power that the catless did, like (ike 10 vs. 22 or similar) so I'm looking at other areas to improve first, like exhaust custom mid-section where even just a deleted/gutted 2nd cat for free is something like 10HP and less hesitation/lag... I personally would literally do a catted downpipe only after full exhaust behind it, upgraded IC piping and intake, but that's just me wanting to run legal and acceptably clean, which OP sounds like is thinking too, but I would eventually get to a HF catted DP one with 02 sensor to be legal.
 

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For the good of the order

2.5 is fine for anything one does to the stock turbo. 3 inch is a must for any stuffed or big turbo setup of any mark. CATLESS is the way to go period. Of course if y'all live in a Commie state with gloal warming guilt and inspections than one of the HFs is about as good as you can do.

Know this ahead of the game:

The oem studs used to connect the exhaust side of the turbo with your downpipe whatever it is are not designed to be re used. Also if you go beyond say 8 K or drive hard, you will most likely have serious problems removing them yourself. Also mom and pop exhaust shops will not do much better.

My Hyundai guys removed my entire turbo assembly, drilled out the stock studs, (because they were self welded in from a TORK tune !!! HA!) Then re-installed arp stainless class 12. Yes class 12 studs and bolts.

Then for shits and giggles they custom made me a down pipe that had 3.25 in the bend from the SS turbo. Aerosol copper was used on the gasket as well. Thats the way its supposed to be done. On the VT forum there are quite a few that lucked out and were able to finagle their studs both ways. There were also quite a few which broke studs. There are quite a few which mom and pop exhaust stores jury rigged improperly done studs to ill effect. Those were the bitching sagas. Just don't end up like that.


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Sculpture Automotive lighting Statue

Heres what mine sounds like:

SOLO makes a good HF CAT that will not cause a CEL. It also is for the mod sqeamish and attaches like the oem. So you don't need to screw with the bend from the turbo or its studs. Make no mistake though the oem bend is VERY restrictive. A true down pipe makes a huge difference, butt dyno, dyno,..noise.

I know of not one individual that installed a true CATLESS down pipe that wasnt like,....Holy shit this is great.
 

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2.5 is fine for anything one does to the stock turbo. 3 inch is a must for any stuffed or big turbo setup of any mark. CATLESS is the way to go period. Of course if y'all live in a Commie state with gloal warming guilt and inspections than one of the HFs is about as good as you can do.

Know this ahead of the game:

The oem studs used to connect the exhaust side of the turbo with your downpipe whatever it is are not designed to be re used. Also if you go beyond say 8 K or drive hard, you will most likely have serious problems removing them yourself. Also mom and pop exhaust shops will not do much better.

My Hyundai guys removed my entire turbo assembly, drilled out the stock studs, (because they were self welded in from a TORK tune !!! HA!) Then re-installed arp stainless class 12. Yes class 12 studs and bolts.

Then for shits and giggles they custom made me a down pipe that had 3.25 in the bend from the SS turbo. Aerosol copper was used on the gasket as well. Thats the way its supposed to be done. On the VT forum there are quite a few that lucked out and were able to finagle their studs both ways. There were also quite a few which broke studs. There are quite a few which mom and pop exhaust stores jury rigged improperly done studs to ill effect. Those were the bitching sagas. Just don't end up like that.


View attachment 12490

Heres what mine sounds like:

SOLO makes a good HF CAT that will not cause a CEL. It also is for the mod sqeamish and attaches like the oem. So you don't need to screw with the bend from the turbo or its studs. Make no mistake though the oem bend is VERY restrictive. A true down pipe makes a huge difference, butt dyno, dyno,..noise.

I know of not one individual that installed a true CATLESS down pipe that wasnt like,....Holy shit this is great.
I don't think anyone actually thinks a CAT is better performance-wise, but it's not like you can't make up the power elsewhere.. and you're right, removing the bend helps right away so an aftermarket pipe with cat helps too.. To me it's not worth running smelly on the street and choking out passengers, including my kid,... I'm not exactly a "communist" either, so let's lay off the name calling and politics, thank you... I could choose go on about how I think any car on street should at least have a basic HF cat but I skip out on going further with my opinions because I know it's a very personal decision, much like politics, so we shouldn't dwell on when we have so much else in common :) And I only say that I would do it last because with cats they are NOT cheap for our cars so I'd other mods first to make the power up, including some machining of the restrictions going to the midpipe... Thanks for sharing all the updates, your build is great!

I'm assuming this Solo for the VT fits ours? https://solo-performance.com/high-flow-converter2012-present-hyundai-veloster-turbo
" These converters are not CARB certified, but they do pass all emissions and keep the CEL light off. • They are technically for off road use only." See? They technically aren't even street legal but I would have no problem running this and not feel guilty either way, we're talking basic clean so it's not smelly and sooty... anyway, I hope you can at least respect where some of us are coming from.
 

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The oem studs used to connect the exhaust side of the turbo with your downpipe whatever it is are not designed to be re used. Also if you go beyond say 8 K or drive hard, you will most likely have serious problems removing them yourself. Also mom and pop exhaust shops will not do much better.

My Hyundai guys removed my entire turbo assembly, drilled out the stock studs, (because they were self welded in from a TORK tune !!! HA!) Then re-installed arp stainless class 12. Yes class 12 studs and bolts.
i'm curious if you don't mind me asking what did dealer charge for the downpipe install?
 

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I don't think anyone actually thinks a CAT is better performance-wise, but it's not like you can't make up the power elsewhere.. and you're right, removing the bend helps right away so an aftermarket pipe with cat helps too.. To me it's not worth running smelly on the street and choking out passengers, including my kid,... I'm not exactly a "communist" either, so let's lay off the name calling and politics, thank you... I could choose go on about how I think any car on street should at least have a basic HF cat but I skip out on going further with my opinions because I know it's a very personal decision, much like politics, so we shouldn't dwell on when we have so much else in common And I only say that I would do it last because with cats they are NOT cheap for our cars so I'd other mods first to make the power up, including some machining of the restrictions going to the midpipe... Thanks for sharing all the updates, your build is great!


Thanks.

My car is not smelly. It is finely tuned, runs straight 12.4 under load 14s or above putting around.
I feel for anyone in a CARB state.
I had the HF SOLO. It never gave me a code, not even a pending. They are actually fabricated in Canada, buisness offices in NY.

Youre not the "Communist", the state govts are. Thank goodness for farmers !!! Notice how where ever farmers rule there are not emissions crap.
Truth be told, my fuel mix with my custom tune and no CAT is cleaner burning than a stock setup with pump gas and a CAT for sure.
I have no soot period, ever. TORKs custom tunes for power are extremely lean. Rich is dirty. I am 12.4 under the heaviest of WOT.
The exhaust smells sweet. The mix is a 91 no ethanol base/tolulene/pure meth injection. When it burns it makes CO2 and water vapor.
Hint hint, tolulene burns cleaner than gasoline, so does methanol.
Hotter tune, bigger boost, requires higher octane, and results in more exact/ stable and complete combustion.


So the thought lines here are a no CAT is reserved for those who are tuning and changing the setup in a significant way.
The upper rpm bands are the true domain of the no CAT. No comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Guys, despite my thread on the TOrk Stage 1 package, I"m still considering it especially for $999 you get a tune, downpipes and CAI. From what videos I've seen of the VT community, people have nothing but good things to say about Tork and their products.

In some videos I even see 845 running Tork hardware. Is this true?
 

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I run the tork catless dp and no second cat and mine does smell but only if the wind pushes it that way. It's not that bad but it does get annoying at times lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
In the limited dyno's available between the 2, the biggest gains were seen as downpipe/catless... As in HF catted made less than half the extra power that the catless did, like (ike 10 vs. 22 or similar) so I'm looking at other areas to improve first, like exhaust custom mid-section where even just a deleted/gutted 2nd cat for free is something like 10HP and less hesitation/lag... I personally would literally do a catted downpipe only after full exhaust behind it, upgraded IC piping and intake, but that's just me wanting to run legal and acceptably clean, which OP sounds like is thinking too, but I would eventually get to a HF catted DP one with 02 sensor to be legal.
What's a full exhaust? You mean change out everything from the downpipes and back?

I"m curious if a muffler delete made any power. I mean the flow of the exhaust should be (more) free and uninhibited so it stands to reason there would be more performance.

If one were to go aftermarket downpipe, is it a given that a new exhaust system should follow suit otherwise what's the point? You're opening up more flow rate, if that's the correct term, and you should compliment it with a new exhaust system because it's universally accepted OE/stock equipment is crap. Kia advertises it as a 'sporty dual tip' exhaust system for the SX when in reality it's not even a real dual exhaust system.

I've seen some legit performance vehicles where they have two pipes coming from the engine to the back. And, since we're kind of on the topic of legit vs fake, I'm curious about the 370z and how it has 2 intakes. Does that give it much better breathing capacity? It reminds me of ultra expensive exotics like Ferraris that have two intakes for the engine.

This is sick:

http://www.the370z.com/members/simota1-albums-intake-hack-picture8035-air-intake-z-002.jpg

https://images.cdn.autocar.co.uk/si...llery_slide/public/_P__6464.JPG?itok=F95IHFTG
 

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How to remove second cat to free some flow, but still keep the OEM cat in case I need to put it back before sale?
 
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