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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is my ho-dunk attempt and a second BOV. My theory is is if we put one AFTER the stock one, then we can technically adjust our boost and have a more steady boost experience. So far, I like it, it works, but its UGLY!... pics to come in a few..
 

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I would seriously watch your AFR readings. Pushing it higher then the stock without adjusting the AFR is a bit scary. Boost cut is around 21 maybe 22. I would have just put a boost controller on it instead.
 

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I am not trying to be a hater here, but you need to reverse this setup and abandon the idea all together.

#1 - Boost control is done via the wastegate actuator, wastegate solenoid, and ECU. How are you "adjusting" boost via this setup?

#2 - The sole purpose of a BOV is to keep air moving when the throttle plate closes to protect the turbocharger. By adding another, you are decreasing the efficiency of the system.
The airflow path out of the valve must be as short as possible or not exist at all.

#3 - Are you having a boost spike at 21 psi or are you actually holding 21 psi for a period of time? The vacuum line coming off the back of the HKS valve, where is that hooked up to?

Ultimately you are not doing yourself any good, my professional advice is to remove it and replace the stock valve if you want an aftermarket setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's in line with the stock bov. The stock bov let's the boost go at 14 or whatever, with this second bov I can adjust the boost. I turned it down to 16,and it holds super steady. No turbo flutter, no surging, just very smooth boost
 

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Interesting
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The car actually really likes it.. I did turn it down. But it's boost is so smooth. Before when I boosted my gauge never stayed still to get a good read. But now I can hold like 5 psi boost.
However
This is a test and I am by no means a pro
However again... It's hard for me to see why this would be different then just putting a aftermarket bov on. Granted the setup is a bit long and big, but that will change. Plus, it's like 5 seconds to disconnect it for taking it in to my anal dealer
 

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I don't see how your only boosting to 14 stock. Seems like the stock BPV is ripped if your not getting the stock 18psi. I would check the stock BPV and see if there is a rip and if there is replace it with the turboxs BOV.
 

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I would check to be safe bro. Don't want to see a fellow member blow the motor that's all. If it works more power to you!
 

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I don't see how your only boosting to 14 stock. Seems like the stock BPV is ripped if your not getting the stock 18psi. I would check the stock BPV and see if there is a rip and if there is replace it with the turboxs BOV.
Depening on the factory cal file he has I have seen factory boost at 14-15 psi before. Dont fully understand how he is adjusting boost with a bov but I would not recommend doing this mod. Biggest reason being is you can try and raise the boost but the ecu will always end up hitting a power limiter as there is no way to "hide or modify " the ecu physically calculating hp/tq and closing the throttle, cutting ignition timing, or any of the other things it can do to stop making more power
 

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Depening on the factory cal file he has I have seen factory boost at 14-15 psi before. Dont fully understand how he is adjusting boost with a bov but I would not recommend doing this mod. Biggest reason being is you can try and raise the boost but the ecu will always end up hitting a power limiter as there is no way to "hide or modify " the ecu physically calculating hp/tq and closing the throttle, cutting ignition timing, or any of the other things it can do to stop making more power
Some days without the EBC on or if it isn't installed (after dealer visit) I play hell trying to get the boost to spike over 15 and other days it will spike to 19-20 and then fall on its face till I release the pedal and get back in to it. This all can be seen in the logs throttle position, timing and boost will flat line and stay for as long as the pedal is held. Once released everything resumes to the norm.
Would be nice to have a ECU that was a direct bolt in without all the safety parameters like a stand alone but still have the ability to self calibrate for new mods (to a point of course). If I am correct even after getting a tune you can still have issues with hitting limiters or can you eliminate them all together? When completed I would prefer to have boost controlled solely by a EBC so there is no conflict like I have now with a CEL because the ECU can't lower boost when it wants. Feels odd going down the road at WOT and hearing the BOV pop open because the ECU sees it can't control boost and if I bypass the BOV solenoid it's instant limp mode and I have to pull over and restart the car. If Tork says he can eliminate all the above issues and turn off the second 02 I would get a spare ECU and tune ordered this month. I would also like to know if there is a way to sync the throttle body and pedal and eliminate ECU override?

At least the OP named his own thread correctly. As for the idea you have, I wonder how that would work if you gutted the stock valve leaving it as just a bypass cap and use the stock solenoid line to control the 2nd BOV and would still give you a little adjustment on the spring tension. Trying to remember what I seen a similar setup on, believe it was an old Subaru XT but not sure.
 

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I did the wastegate solenoid hack, and bypassed the BOV solenoid when I added my turboxs BOV, and boost at 18-20 peak. Have yet to have limp mode due to overboost. It's nice until I get a tune. Get to hear the spool down and the wastegate.
 
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