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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Hey all, got my shifter installed...

pretty straight forward with the instructions they included... only headache was the fact that my shifter ( i dont know if they are all like that) but my shifter was already assembled, and it took longer because i had to take it apart to transfer the pivot bushing....

would have been easier if cosmo just included the roll pin and told you to install it.

anyways...

First start out by unscrewing the shift knob, removing the reverse lockout spring and then remove the shifter trim by pulling up around the shifter and the center console armrest with the lid open



heres what your left with



next remove the shifter support bracket to gain access later for the bottom shift cable, 2 phillips and 2 10mm bolts, pull it out and put it aside, i already removed it in the picture above, but you'll see it.



now spread the metal clips, pull down and then push to the side for the bottom shift cable, i forgot to get a pic, but the instructions will tell you to remove this white plastic "cup" from the oem shifter and transfer it to the cosmo one, cosmo says to use a hammer and punch, but i was able to use a small screwdriver and pry on the inner lip of the cup and get it to pop off easy



this is the pin and the push nut that cosmo says to remove, but with me hammering for a minute or 2, it didnt budge at all and i couldnt get a screw driver behind the push nut to pry it off, so i determined to just use a small pry bar to pry the side cable off the shifter..

it worked for me, but be careful so you dont break it



next the instructions tells you how to push the 4 tabs and then use paper clips, i just used push pins



i put the knob back on the shifter to grab something, then you just have to pull up and it'll pop out.

remember the side cable is still attached. just pry towards the passenger side, you'll figure it out



closest picture i have, but you'll have to hammer out the roll pin for the reverse lockout so you can put the oem plastic bushing onto the cosmo from the oem shifter



then you need to remove the plastic pieces from the shift boot. just flip it inside out and you'll see 2 small clips and then it comes apart, there is a small part that is glued, just peal it slowly. you can see the pieces in the backround.

with it inside out, put the boot onto the cosmo reverse lockout then secure with a ziptie



after that, then put the reverse lockout back on the shifter, hammer in the roll pin, then install the cosmo in the reverse order. dont forget the cable on the bottom




reinstall the shifter trim after installing the shifter base support with the 2 phillips and 2 10mm bolts. then pass the plastic trim ring for the boot through the shifter hole and clip it back into place



then install the reverse lockout spring, jam nut and the knob nut. then finally the knob





 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
doesnt take much for researching how our cars and their brothers are put together. we have the 6spd gamma, as well as the veloster, so it only made sense


your welcome
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks, it also seems that either its a design feature or something. but i almost removed an e-CLIP from the shifter holding the spring down for the collar, made the reverse lockout very stiff... when i re-assembled the shifter i never put the e-clip back in and it gives the reverse lockout more OEM feel and movement, so i dont know if this e-clip is just for shipping or what...

its never mentioned in the instructions, and neither is taking apart the shifter for the pivot cup/bushing transfer either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
after driving a few days im still getting used to the alluminum clink noise when i go all the way to the left, hit the reverse lockout then go into first...

other than that its really nice and tight... with the reduced leverage it would benefit from either a taller non ball type shift knob or even a short shifter extension.
 

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Got mine installed this afternoon. I didn't get any photos of it while I had it apart but if you have the duel zone temp control its a bit more involved to switch out. There is ducting for the rear console vent that runs on both sides of the shifter housing and is connected in both the front and back. Of course it was in the way of everything I needed to get to and the only way I could get the ducting out of the way was to remove the console completely. To remove the console it's only 2 bolts in the bottom of the center console (underneath the armrest) and and 2 phillips screws on both sides towards the front. There are also 3 wiring plugs in the front of the console that needed to be disconnected. Overall, not really that hard, it just took a little longer to figure out how to get everything apart.

I bought mine from TurboSocks and it came with the roll pin and the c-clip not installed so that made things a little easier. I tried it both ways and for now left the c-clip installed. It's definitely stiffer than OEM with it installed.

IMO the shifter feels really, really good with short and very precise shifting. Definitely worth the money for me.

And yeah, the thunk when the aluminum hits the reverse lockout does stand out. I thought "so thats what honhon was talking about"... Lol.

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Anyways, thanks for the detailed write up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool. I'm glad I could help. I just changed tranny fluid and the shifts are even smoother.
 

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so I have a question does this set up really do much for shifter feel.. our shifter problem seems more to do with the clutch uptake more than anything.. I never though the shifter in our car had long throws .. about the same I a Mx5 or EVO x.. I have both.. what I take issues it the clutch take up.. so after installing the short shifter.. any issues.. like rattles or hang ups?
 

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I read that .. im looking at that mod as we speak.. still breaking in the car now.. but how does the short shifter feel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
feels more solid, the notchy comes from the transmission, so it doesnt elimnate that, just mostly a more solid feel
 
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