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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I finally done with buying a house and doing the proper renovations, which means I can continue with my car. I have a minor list of modifications but I need your recommendations.

Short Ram Intake: Injen or 6th Element?
lowering springs (Storm) or coil overs (BC)? Note: I don't want the car kissing the floor neither do the camber, I'm ok with lowering between 1.5 to 1.75
Evilla Motorsport sway bar (if lowering springs), but in case I go for coil overs, which sway bar should be used?
How does the OEM lip spoiler looks like in the Forte? I've seen pictures of the lip spoiler, but never seen it installed.
Is it recommended to install a catch can?

I'll appreciate any recommendations and advice.

PS: I live in California, we have CARB laws here.
 

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Congrats on house. Good time to buy.

SRI - what's the purpose of it?
As for tunning advice - where is the question?

My personal findings for SRI/CAI - it gets very loud. There is no gurgle, deep rumble and such. It is a vacuum suction noise. I cannot even hear the turbo spool with open intake.
But this is my PERSONAL take, by which I ended up with KN drop in only. It is a bit louder and way better than OEM paper, but allows for the turbo to whistle.

As for the rest - I cannot say except OCC.
For those - Yes and No.
Yes as they catch a lot of oil and mist that otherwise would go to engine. It will get burned, but many times it gets caked into the intake valves.
No if they are poor quality and you do not empty them on regular basis. Also, if the hoses you use are nice and tight and no smell is venting out. I had bad hose clamp/barb and my garage smelled like very old car leaking oil. As a result it smelled inside the car...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Congrats on house. Good time to buy.

SRI - what's the purpose of it?
As for tunning advice - where is the question?

My personal findings for SRI/CAI - it gets very loud. There is no gurgle, deep rumble and such. It is a vacuum suction noise. I cannot even hear the turbo spool with open intake.
But this is my PERSONAL take, by which I ended up with KN drop in only. It is a bit louder and way better than OEM paper, but allows for the turbo to whistle.

As for the rest - I cannot say except OCC.
For those - Yes and No.
Yes as they catch a lot of oil and mist that otherwise would go to engine. It will get burned, but many times it gets caked into the intake valves.
No if they are poor quality and you do not empty them on regular basis. Also, if the hoses you use are nice and tight and no smell is venting out. I had bad hose clamp/barb and my garage smelled like very old car leaking oil. As a result it smelled inside the car...
Thanks for the information. I think the title is wrong, it should be Mods Advice. I already have the K&N filter and works good, but shouldn't a SRI provide better airflow and better response?
 

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I already have the K&N filter and works good, but shouldn't a SRI provide better airflow and better response?
Well... kind of...
You see, from what I read there is a lot of debate.

From what I read, they say with OEM tune any aftermarket intakes you get better power in the top band (less restrictive flow). However, somehow SRI or CAI causes less low end torque. It seems weaker until higher rpm.
So there is some trade off.
My personal experience was exactly like that. Car seemed faster and much louder with SRI, but in everyday drive it was somehow less torque-y.

Having said that, You just need to ask yourself what you like more - a bit more power up or better response in low. I think the noise acts like an extra power. You know, dyno-butt.
Another thing I noticed was that after a while it seemed slower again. Meaning, ECU learned new airflow and brought it back to "normal". Yet, the low end torque did not come back.
Then, switching back to OEM felt like more power as the car got quiet, but it still pulled nicely.

I think there is a lot of personal experience/perception in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Meaning, ECU learned new airflow and brought it back to "normal".
I forgot the ECU, which makes sense. Once the ECU readjust to the normal drive then the pull will me different and drop again. Thanks for pointing that. Then I'll move forward with adjusting the handling.
 

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I forgot the ECU, which makes sense. Once the ECU readjust to the normal drive then the pull will me different and drop again. Thanks for pointing that. Then I'll move forward with adjusting the handling.
May I ask you what you want from your car the most?
Better handling? Start with tires. Then adjust suspension. Coil overs are not really improving handling. They may adjust some parts to make it better for a certain application, but the install will remove the daily driver aspect. I mean, you will compromise on something.
Rear bar. Yes... kind of. Again, it will stiffen rear, which is OK, but that will result in some other situations in rebounce/rough ride.
Lowering? That's very personal and I am not touching it. For me it is a mod same as smoked headlights. Might look cool, but is complete waste of money. Especially in this car that already sits low.

What I am getting to? One sec.

You mentioned OCC and intake. I presume that was to get more power from it, right?
Hence, forget about all those semi mods that supposed to make the car faster and get tune instead.
Especially where you live, you are much closer to Tork (although if you are in LA that is not really close :)), and you can get dyno-custom tune.
Even the can tune, with spare ECU, and spark plugs will be roughly 600-800.
And that will transition your car to the point you will smile each time.

Yes, it will trigger need for more mods (brakes, for instance), but from all my previous years - I find that tune gives the best overall experience.
And as a result your car looks just like a KIA, nothing fancy, yet may smoke stock GTI or even Focus ST or a poor driver in RS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
May I ask you what you want from your car the most?
Better handling? Start with tires. Then adjust suspension. Coil overs are not really improving handling. They may adjust some parts to make it better for a certain application, but the install will remove the daily driver aspect. I mean, you will compromise on something.
Rear bar. Yes... kind of. Again, it will stiffen rear, which is OK, but that will result in some other situations in rebounce/rough ride.
Lowering? That's very personal and I am not touching it. For me it is a mod same as smoked headlights. Might look cool, but is complete waste of money. Especially in this car that already sits low.

What I am getting to? One sec.

You mentioned OCC and intake. I presume that was to get more power from it, right?
Hence, forget about all those semi mods that supposed to make the car faster and get tune instead.
Especially where you live, you are much closer to Tork (although if you are in LA that is not really close :)), and you can get dyno-custom tune.
Even the can tune, with spare ECU, and spark plugs will be roughly 600-800.
And that will transition your car to the point you will smile each time.

Yes, it will trigger need for more mods (brakes, for instance), but from all my previous years - I find that tune gives the best overall experience.
And as a result your car looks just like a KIA, nothing fancy, yet may smoke stock GTI or even Focus ST or a poor driver in RS.
Well, I'm not into racing. I'm more into show off, some pulls (dive around 100mph) and have a cool ride. I was planning to get the SRI to improve the acceleration and engine roar, the lowering springs to lower the ride for a cool look and somehow improve stability and the sway bar to improve stability too. I was asking for the catch can because it is something new to me, and what benefits I will actually get, but it seems that I won't go into that route. As for the tunning, I think that is too much for me now, unless I desides to do something in the future.
 

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I forgot the ECU, which makes sense. Once the ECU readjust to the normal drive then the pull will me different and drop again. Thanks for pointing that. Then I'll move forward with adjusting the handling.
May I ask you what you want from your car the most?
Better handling? Start with tires. Then adjust suspension. Coil overs are not really improving handling. They may adjust some parts to make it better for a certain application, but the install will remove the daily driver aspect. I mean, you will compromise on something.
Rear bar. Yes... kind of. Again, it will stiffen rear, which is OK, but that will result in some other situations in rebounce/rough ride.
Lowering? That's very personal and I am not touching it. For me it is a mod same as smoked headlights. Might look cool, but is complete waste of money. Especially in this car that already sits low.

What I am getting to? One sec.

You mentioned OCC and intake. I presume that was to get more power from it, right?
Hence, forget about all those semi mods that supposed to make the car faster and get tune instead.
Especially where you live, you are much closer to Tork (although if you are in LA that is not really close
), and you can get dyno-custom tune.
Even the can tune, with spare ECU, and spark plugs will be roughly 600-800.
And that will transition your car to the point you will smile each time.

Yes, it will trigger need for more mods (brakes, for instance), but from all my previous years - I find that tune gives the best overall experience.
And as a result your car looks just like a KIA, nothing fancy, yet may smoke stock GTI or even Focus ST or a poor driver in RS.

During my week of getting my speed fix I almost crashed because I didn't anticipate the stock brakes ability. Right now I'm going to put better brskes and summer tires over power mods for this summer. Came across some cts-v bbk at kdmtuners which are reasonably priced. They are legit brembos as oppose to the off brands I looked like before.

Power mods will come but it's going to be a trickle. The unfortunate reality is I am not equipped to handle a high powered vehicle, 200hp is more than enough for me.


I kind of smartened up after that incident. Also started putting 93 at the pump which is $1.50 per litre.
 

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Before a few weeks ago I thought OCC were essential until people reported the oil freezing up. I'll probably get own down the road but right now in fine without one, I don't believe Hyundai Kia would ommit such a critical component if it compromises the cars longevity.

I have been running thebbc racing coils for a year. Initially it transformed my car but PLP is right in saying it compromises the daily aspect. It's sitting at medium or halfway point in stiffness and already I feel every bump and imperfections in the road. I will say they make the car look killer. This summer I'm going to drop it a bit more and even dial it stiffer because my experience has taught me to drive a bit more conservative. I don't regret it since I can make the ride higher or lower and softer which is the whole point of coils. Like you I'm form over function. Is that correct? All aesthetics.
 

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Well, I'm not into racing. I'm more into show off, some pulls (dive around 100mph) and have a cool ride.
OK, that's what I thought.

I was planning to get the SRI to improve the acceleration and engine roar.
How long it will last I cannot say, but the improvement is not large.
As for the roar - like I said, before you invest, remove the pipe from the box and listen to the sound. This is what the engine will sound.
It is not a typical naturally aspirated engine rumble.

I was personally disappointed...

During my week of getting my speed fix I almost crashed because I didn't anticipate the stock brakes ability.
Happened to me, too. On winter tires.
With some guy in EcoBoost Fusion we pushed a bit on 45 mph road. When I checked the speed it was past 80 mph and not much room to slow down. I was quite nervous. Yet, I stopped just fine. Just the winter tires extend stopping distance...


Also started putting 93 at the pump which is $1.50 per litre.
89 is just fine if you do not have tune.

Before a few weeks ago I thought OCC were essential until people reported the oil freezing up. I'll probably get own down the road but right now in fine without one, I don't believe Hyundai Kia would ommit such a critical component if it compromises the cars longevity.
Nope, they did not forget about it and it does not really extend life of the engine.
So far there were maybe a few cases where there was some more buildup, but that was rather due to lack of maintenance (regular oil changes/wrong weights).
Yes, OCC will help to keep it cleaner, but they are tricky. They require maintenance and often cleaning to avoid blockage and sudden dump of oil.

Initially it transformed my car but PLP is right in saying it compromises the daily aspect. It's sitting at medium or halfway point in stiffness and already I feel every bump and imperfections in the road. I will say they make the car look killer.
All aesthetics.
I completely agree.
I just cannot do that here, because not only I haul kids and wife quite often, but also the roads are killing. Not to mention my driveway that is very steep and even without any mods I rub my bumper on it if I do not drive on it in a very specific way. And slowly.


As for the power mods - if you are looking into power and are about to spend 200 on intake, maybe a few more here and there - I would say again. Save for tune. Even when reverted to stock it is a beast.
 

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Which pipe? Can you post a picture?
the one from the air box.
I know, it will run without a filter, but for a few seconds you will be fine, unless you take it for a ride across a sandy beach.

Ni picture handy, but again - when you unclip the airbox cover, the top part is connected to a pipe that goes to the turbo (air intake pipe). Remove the clamp, take off the airbox cover and leave the pipe dangling.
Start engine and take it for a short drive. The sound you will hear will be more or less same as SRI or CAI. BOV will be more pronounced, though, as it is muffled now due to the air duct.

I hope makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the one from the air box.
I know, it will run without a filter, but for a few seconds you will be fine, unless you take it for a ride across a sandy beach.

Ni picture handy, but again - when you unclip the airbox cover, the top part is connected to a pipe that goes to the turbo (air intake pipe). Remove the clamp, take off the airbox cover and leave the pipe dangling.
Start engine and take it for a short drive. The sound you will hear will be more or less same as SRI or CAI. BOV will be more pronounced, though, as it is muffled now due to the air duct.

I hope makes sense.
I think you are saying to remove the air box and leave the pipe hanging?
 

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No, not to remove the air box.

So maybe the other way.
Imagine you are about to replace air intake filter.
So you unclip the cover from the box to remove the filter. Right? So now, instead of removing the filter, take off the cover (disconnect the cover from the intake tube/pipe). You will have the filter exposed and tube hanging just next to the filter.

See pictures below.

Copyrights to Darth_Forte in posts:
http://www.forteturbo.org/forum/15-kia-forte-turbo-builds/912-project-darth-vader-2.html#post17069
and
http://www.forteturbo.org/forum/15-kia-forte-turbo-builds/912-project-darth-vader-8.html#post79930

oem.jpg

Remove the box cover.

sri.jpg

It would look like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No, not to remove the air box.

So maybe the other way.
Imagine you are about to replace air intake filter.
So you unclip the cover from the box to remove the filter. Right? So now, instead of removing the filter, take off the cover (disconnect the cover from the intake tube/pipe). You will have the filter exposed and tube hanging just next to the filter.
Got it, basically leaving the filter exposed. Since the cover is removed the sound will be heard. This will be a good experiment to see how much noise I can get inside the cabin.
 

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Roll the window :D
 

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My take on things:

Suspension: current mods are tork collars, rear bar, rear support bar (f5 only), storm springs, and Indy 500s, fsb bushings

1. Bars made a nice difference.
2. Tork collars made a small difference in slop
3. Springs after about a month they ride almost like stock but lower, now would like more aggressive rear pads. Despite what others have said lowering your car in springs does a few things. It lowers center of gravity, and changes the rear springs to progressive instead of linear.
4. Indy 500s they work, well, but not Good when it gets below 40

OCC

I do not currently run any. Change your pcv every 15 to 30k miles, made sure you get an intake cleaning every 30k miles. This is just to prevent the coking. The oil vapors also causes a change in the octane from what I have read but have not looked into it much. You can also just VTA if you don't mind the smell.


Intake

I ran an injen SRI, then as a CAI, then back as a SRI with a velocity stack and wrapped in header wrap and right now just a slightly modified stock set up. I will not run oil filters.

1. SRI more power every where, noise is horrible
2. CAI more power but a bit more delayed but slightly better when hot, nose a bit better
3. SRI with v stack and wrapped made the car have the best power and was quieter than just a SRI. The wrap got rid of a bit if the raspy sound but still way too loud for my taste
4. Removing the restriction right before the turbo seems to be the best throttle response and low end but it's missing up high. I found someone who made an intake it of silicoln piping and attached a larger hose the stock box which is where I plan to go next.
5. Side project is get a bigger throttle body. This will open up your top end no matter what set up you decide to run

Tune

Choose your tuner wisely. Research, learn, listen 😉
 
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