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28k you say?
How hard was it driven? Many WOT from dead stop? Any towing/high mountain?

How the ATF compared to fresh one?

Mine is at 25k. I was thinking of changing it, but never really came to it. Now I am actually thinking of selling it, though.


From my previous experience.
In 2007 KIA Rondo (it was V6, 5spd) the ATF was flushed at 35k. It was really brownish. Not very bad, but definitely not red as fresh one. That was I think in 2011/2012 or so.

Now, the kicker. Before we sold it at 65k miles, in 2016, the ATF looked still like new.
It simply seemed like the factory fill did not last as long as the flushed one... maybe additives? Maybe something else was in the tranny, any fluids, sealers that discoloured the original one. Who knows.
Shifts, though, were almost same. A bit better, but nothing huge.
 
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OK so after driving around most of the day (3-19-19) the up-shift was much smoother and a little-bit firmer.
But the "big" difference (40% to 50%) was the down-shift was very smooth and nice. Before it was not great and it lagged/hanged-up a-bit. NO more.
For $20 I "will" do this again in a few months, just as easy to do just like changing oil and filter just add another one and a half hours (I take my time) or so on to the days car maintenance.
Great info drc69. Glad to hear you had positive results. I was going to use SP4-M trans oil but it's around $10.00 a quart from the dealer. Valvoline trans oil is a great deal and if it's working well I'll go with that.
 

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28k you say?
How hard was it driven? Many WOT from dead stop? Any towing/high mountain?

How the ATF compared to fresh one?

Mine is at 25k. I was thinking of changing it, but never really came to it. Now I am actually thinking of selling it, though.


From my previous experience.
In 2007 KIA Rondo (it was V6, 5spd) the ATF was flushed at 35k. It was really brownish. Not very bad, but definitely not red as fresh one. That was I think in 2011/2012 or so.

Now, the kicker. Before we sold it at 65k miles, in 2016, the ATF looked still like new.
It simply seemed like the factory fill did not last as long as the flushed one... maybe additives? Maybe something else was in the tranny, any fluids, sealers that discoloured the original one. Who knows.
Shifts, though, were almost same. A bit better, but nothing huge.
Car is driven "normal". Sure I do a few WOT here and there. No towing or long distance driving. As I said the OEM fluid didn't look bad at all, but made a positive improvement to the way the trans shifts now.
I'm not planning on selling the car, no need to replace it for any reason in my book. I bought it "new" and replace the old car ( Mitsubishi Eclipse ) with this one. Which I still Like A Lot more then the old car, not very good at all.
 

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Great info drc69. Glad to hear you had positive results. I was going to use SP4-M trans oil but it's around $10.00 a quart from the dealer. Valvoline trans oil is a great deal and if it's working well I'll go with that.
I've used Valvoline for more then 40 years now, so I'm good with that brand. For many years I only used Kendall oil and then when back to Valvoline. The good old days, at lease for me they where. LOL :)
 

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Doing some maintenance at 22k miles now and trans oil is on the list. I did 2 drain & fills of the trans oil w valvoline red bottle trans oil. Have to remove the front splash shield & air filter box. Both easy to remove and I left the lower shield off for a few weeks because I wanted to put a few hundred miles on between drain & fills. Procedure is very easy, I leave the fill check plug out for the whole process to vent the trans. Drained out oe trans oil then filled trans until I got a slight drip out of the fill check hole. Started the motor and waited until the fans kicked on. Added more oil until it just trickled out of fill check hole, moved through all the gears then put the fill check plug back in. Old trans oil didn't look too bad, lots of gunk on drain plug magnet. I will say shifts are nearly imperceptible now as the tach just drops going in to the next gear. Going forward I will do this same double drain and fill every 20k miles.
 

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Great job. I'm at 29K now. I did it once (27K), so maybe in a few more weeks I'm going to drain and fill one more time before summer.
Working on the head-unit and speakers now.
 

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Ugh...at 43k, now. Had the car at the dealer back in April and asked the adviser about A/T fluid interval. He said he really doesn't use one., because there's a lot of factors that contribute to fluid degradation. They have a way to test the viscosity and if the fluid is holding up, they leave it alone. I was having them comb over the car, because I had just bought it with a hair over 40k on it (Carvana). He said my fluid was good (guess I believe him, because when ISN'T a dealer trying to sell you something). He also ranted on about how clean and in good shape the car was and they wouldn't hesitate to sell it as a CPO vehicle. Seems worth the time and relatively low cost to drain and fill it a couple of times, though.
 

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Hi,
I'm glad I did the trans, it has been shifting so much better then before I did the drain and fill.
Cost was less then $25 at Walley World.
I did the trans at the same time I did the oil change, probably do it again in a few months.
 

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Remove that front lower shield and have at it! Buy 3 jugs of the valvoline trans oil if that's what your going to use. Get a long neck funnel for the fill. I left that lower shield off for a couple weeks in between drain & fills. If you leave it off don't do any highway high speed driving, I did and at 102mph the passenger wheel well plastic ripped off the car. $50.00 to replace it but the experience of it coming off at just over 100mph was pretty scary!
 

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Got everything to knock this out, Labor Day Weekend. Question, I only saw one person mention replacing the trans drain plug washer. Did most just re-use the old one? I ran by my Kia dealer, this morning and the parts guy and I are on a name basis, now. He didn't have one in stock, but he gave me the part number. In case anyone is interested, it's: 21513-11000. Another question...can you access the level check plug from uptop? I ask because I don't have 4 matching jack stands. My plan was to jack it up, drain the fluid, replace the washer and tighten the plug, then let the car down on it's own suspension to do the fill. My garage is pretty darn level. As long as I can get the level check plug back in from up top...that should be a winner.
 

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I never did the oil change on this one... never had a chance. So I did not see the washer.
Anyway, if this is a the crush washer type, better replace. From pictures it seems to be a normal type. And truth to be told, even the crush type should not, but most of the time can easily be reused.

However, one drain/refill is not enough, hence you will be doing it anytime soon again. I'd say 3 times will make a decent change.
Assuming you can drain about 3.5 liters (total capacity is 7.1 l)....
1st change makes 50% change
2nd 75%
3rd 88%
4th 94%

Drain, refill exactly same amount, drive 50-100 miles, drain again...


Or let them do a flush.
From my experience in other KIAs - I did flush at 35k miles and it was a good decision. Oil was dirty red almost brownish. After another 30k miles - it was still looking like day after the flush, that is juicy red. I guess all the additives during the building process come out and make the ATF dirtier.
 

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While I was doing that I didn't change washer and after a year no leaks.
After removing splash shield under car and intake box all plugs are easy accessible. You shouldn't have a problem accessing everything without lifting car. I did that this way and car is on lowering springs.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

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I never did the oil change on this one... never had a chance. So I did not see the washer.
Anyway, if this is a the crush washer type, better replace. From pictures it seems to be a normal type. And truth to be told, even the crush type should not, but most of the time can easily be reused.

However, one drain/refill is not enough, hence you will be doing it anytime soon again. I'd say 3 times will make a decent change.
Assuming you can drain about 3.5 liters (total capacity is 7.1 l)....
1st change makes 50% change
2nd 75%
3rd 88%
4th 94%

Drain, refill exactly same amount, drive 50-100 miles, drain again...


Or let them do a flush.
From my experience in other KIAs - I did flush at 35k miles and it was a good decision. Oil was dirty red almost brownish. After another 30k miles - it was still looking like day after the flush, that is juicy red. I guess all the additives during the building process come out and make the ATF dirtier.
thanks for the info, man. I honestly thought it would need a flush, but the adviser was adamant about not touching it as long as the viscosity was good. I had pegged 3 drain and fills as probably as close as I would get to a complete exchange. Doesn't seem to hard a job, though.
 

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While I was doing that I didn't change washer and after a year no leaks.
After removing splash shield under car and intake box all plugs are easy accessible. You shouldn't have a problem accessing everything without lifting car. I did that this way and car is on lowering springs.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Thank YOU!! Exactly what I wanted to hear. I do need to invest in some ramps or a matching set of 4 jack stands, though.
 

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I drive up on 4 2x4's and it's just the right height. IIRC you can see the fill check plug from up top, don't remember if you can reach it from up there though. After doing this twice now I just dump in 4 qts right away and go from there. What trans oil are you using?
 

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What trans oil are you using?
I almost chickened out and got SP fluid from the dealer...but at $9 a quart...nah. I got the Valvoline Max Life 1 Gallon jug from Walmart...$17.99. They didn't have an single quart bottles, so I need to grab one of those from Advanced or someplace...in case it's not 4 quarts on the nose.
 
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VML works great in these transmissions. $9.00 for SP4-M? My local dealer wanted almost $14.00 a quart.
Any mechanical mods planned?
 

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Nope...with the exception of an axle-back exhaust, for better sound...no mods planned .
 

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$9.00 for SP4-M? My local dealer wanted almost $14.00 a quart.
Funny thing you mentioned it.
My dealer wanted about 10 USD a quart if I bought it, BUT they'd charge only 4 USD/quart if I did the flush with them (plus one hour labor).
At that point it seemed like I could rather do the flush as the cost was almost same.
 

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Funny thing you mentioned it.
My dealer wanted about 10 USD a quart if I bought it, BUT they'd charge only 4 USD/quart if I did the flush with them (plus one hour labor).
At that point it seemed like I could rather do the flush as the cost was almost same.
MSRP is $8.45....dealers are probably paying like 3 or 4 bucks a quart and marking it up to whatever they see fit. Looks like if you let them do the flush, they were just getting you for the labor and spotting you the fluid. Probably still winning, because I'm sure it doesn't take an hour to do.
 
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