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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...is car parts or money for car parts.

So, finally, I ordered and received my Evilla Motorsports Torsion Bar. It was a bit of a hassle getting it in considering I was doing it all on jacks and twisting and turning on the ground to gain leverage...however I succeeded and can already feel the benefit of the added stiffness. I may get the front 2-point bar to add a little bit of rigidness to the front, but honestly, for my daily, the front chassis roll goes well with the added rear stiffness.

Also, I ordered (after months of debating with myself) the AEM 030-0311X OBD II gauge. It plugs directly into the OBDII port on any vehicle 2008 - up and provides ANY and ALL information that you ECU already monitors on a digital LED screen. It also monitors, detects, and clears tripped engine codes.

I'll let you all know more about it once I get it in tomorrow and play with it a little.

Happy Holidays and Happy New Year!!

-- Geoffrey
 

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...is car parts or money for car parts.

So, finally, I ordered and received my Evilla Motorsports Torsion Bar. It was a bit of a hassle getting it in considering I was doing it all on jacks and twisting and turning on the ground to gain leverage...however I succeeded and can already feel the benefit of the added stiffness. I may get the front 2-point bar to add a little bit of rigidness to the front, but honestly, for my daily, the front chassis roll goes well with the added rear stiffness.

Also, I ordered (after months of debating with myself) the AEM 030-0311X OBD II gauge. It plugs directly into the OBDII port on any vehicle 2008 - up and provides ANY and ALL information that you ECU already monitors on a digital LED screen. It also monitors, detects, and clears tripped engine codes.

I'll let you all know more about it once I get it in tomorrow and play with it a little.

Happy Holidays and Happy New Year!!

-- Geoffrey
Hi Geoffrey,

I'm very interested in that AEM gauge too. Could you post some update in it? Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I most definitely will post my thoughts, opinions, and data on it as soon as it's installed and I have a few hours to learn how to use it properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update: I will have the AEM OBDII gauge today. I probably will not install it, as in hard mount it, right away however I am going to jury rig it somewhere and go ahead and plug it in to learn how to use it properly. I'm sure I'll post my thoughts either tomorrow or Saturday.

I ended up buying a "used" unit directly from Amazon's warehouse deals which is based near where I live. It saved me $30 and evidently it's just a return and was never used, only opened and then sent back. So here's hoping it does actually work and I don't have to send it back. hahaha
 

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Update: I will have the AEM OBDII gauge today. I probably will not install it, as in hard mount it, right away however I am going to jury rig it somewhere and go ahead and plug it in to learn how to use it properly. I'm sure I'll post my thoughts either tomorrow or Saturday.

I ended up buying a "used" unit directly from Amazon's warehouse deals which is based near where I live. It saved me $30 and evidently it's just a return and was never used, only opened and then sent back. So here's hoping it does actually work and I don't have to send it back. hahaha
Thanks for following up Geoffrey. Also, Some pics on the torsion bar will be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
alrighty. Finally able to get you all some pics. Sorry for the delay. You know, the Holidays and what-not. For those wanting the torsion bar pics - there really isn't much to show. Four bolts attached to the bottom of the rear spring boots. You can not see the bar whatsoever unless you are either under the car or the rear end is up in the air - like maybe on an incline. That's why I went with "white" because it was just quicker to get it without having it powder coated another color.

As for the AEM OBD II gauge. It works as advertised. And honestly, there isn't much to it except that it's essentially just a diagnostic monitoring tool that happens to allow you to clear thrown engine codes. The device can monitor dozens of parameters right out of the box - HOWEVER (please read this) - it can only monitor the parameters that your ECU monitors. So, since I have the stock ECU, it monitors about 15 parameters (give or take) and I have NO control over what those parameters are. However, with an upgraded ECU (i.e. aftermarket) you can program the ECU to give feedback on any and all of the dozens of parameters available.

With that all said, I wanted this gauge as a way to monitor some of the parameters that our vehicles do not have a gauge for. Oil pressure, exhaust temp, fuel leanness and richness, and boost. Now -- the first three, oil pressure, exhaust temp, and fuel all are monitored by our stock ECU's. But I assumed boost was as well - however - I'm not quite sure how the car actually measures boost. There are three pressures that this gauge can monitor - manifold, boost, and a third that I can not remember off the top of my head. Well, I know it's not measuring manifold pressure when I have it set to INT.P (Intake Pressure) since manifold pressure is usually measured in N/A cars only and to boot, manifold pressure is HIGH when at idle and low when you are on throttle. That isn't the case here.

The numbers I'm getting are at idle 4.5-5.0 psi and then at normal throttle around 12-14.5 psi. However, when I go full throttle I'm peaking at 31 psi. There is no way that our cars make 31 psi of boost so my only theory regarding this measurement is actual intake psi - as in the first O2 Sensor connecting to our air intakes. Now, please, any of the senior members on here, please correct me if I'm wrong. :)

I honestly don't mind this at all if indeed the measurement is actual intake psi considering I know that our cars top off stock boost around 18-19 psi anyways. But I would like to know exactly what measurement this Int.P parameter is.

Aside from those parameters that I have used mainly for the last 4 days, the device is fantastic and every bit worth the $120 I paid for it. Although I got a steal of a deal from Amazon, the normal going price is $150 and that too is worth every dime in my book. Though I do think I'm going to go right on ahead and purchase an AEM mechanical boost gauge just for giggles to match this OBD gauge, I feel that with a stock ECU setup like mine, this gauge is more than enough for us.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'll do my best to answer what I can promptly. I am also going to post the link to the Code parameter sheet that came with this gauge, as well.

Geoffrey

(FYI - I still have some cleaning up on the black abs plastic plate that the gauge is connected to - so disregard the "primitiveness" of the looks right now.)

AEM OBD II Instructions

evilla torsion.jpg IMG_3036.JPG IMG_3037.JPG IMG_3039.JPG IMG_3041.JPG
 

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alrighty. Finally able to get you all some pics. Sorry for the delay. You know, the Holidays and what-not. For those wanting the torsion bar pics - there really isn't much to show. Four bolts attached to the bottom of the rear spring boots. You can not see the bar whatsoever unless you are either under the car or the rear end is up in the air - like maybe on an incline. That's why I went with "white" because it was just quicker to get it without having it powder coated another color.

As for the AEM OBD II gauge. It works as advertised. And honestly, there isn't much to it except that it's essentially just a diagnostic monitoring tool that happens to allow you to clear thrown engine codes. The device can monitor dozens of parameters right out of the box - HOWEVER (please read this) - it can only monitor the parameters that your ECU monitors. So, since I have the stock ECU, it monitors about 15 parameters (give or take) and I have NO control over what those parameters are. However, with an upgraded ECU (i.e. aftermarket) you can program the ECU to give feedback on any and all of the dozens of parameters available.

With that all said, I wanted this gauge as a way to monitor some of the parameters that our vehicles do not have a gauge for. Oil pressure, exhaust temp, fuel leanness and richness, and boost. Now -- the first three, oil pressure, exhaust temp, and fuel all are monitored by our stock ECU's. But I assumed boost was as well - however - I'm not quite sure how the car actually measures boost. There are three pressures that this gauge can monitor - manifold, boost, and a third that I can not remember off the top of my head. Well, I know it's not measuring manifold pressure when I have it set to INT.P (Intake Pressure) since manifold pressure is usually measured in N/A cars only and to boot, manifold pressure is HIGH when at idle and low when you are on throttle. That isn't the case here.

The numbers I'm getting are at idle 4.5-5.0 psi and then at normal throttle around 12-14.5 psi. However, when I go full throttle I'm peaking at 31 psi. There is no way that our cars make 31 psi of boost so my only theory regarding this measurement is actual intake psi - as in the first O2 Sensor connecting to our air intakes. Now, please, any of the senior members on here, please correct me if I'm wrong. :)

I honestly don't mind this at all if indeed the measurement is actual intake psi considering I know that our cars top off stock boost around 18-19 psi anyways. But I would like to know exactly what measurement this Int.P parameter is.

Aside from those parameters that I have used mainly for the last 4 days, the device is fantastic and every bit worth the $120 I paid for it. Although I got a steal of a deal from Amazon, the normal going price is $150 and that too is worth every dime in my book. Though I do think I'm going to go right on ahead and purchase an AEM mechanical boost gauge just for giggles to match this OBD gauge, I feel that with a stock ECU setup like mine, this gauge is more than enough for us.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'll do my best to answer what I can promptly. I am also going to post the link to the Code parameter sheet that came with this gauge, as well.

Geoffrey

(FYI - I still have some cleaning up on the black abs plastic plate that the gauge is connected to - so disregard the "primitiveness" of the looks right now.)

AEM OBD II Instructions

View attachment 5058 View attachment 5066 View attachment 5074 View attachment 5082 View attachment 5090
Dude, thanks for all the update and the pictures. This is superb. Quick question, did you modified and cut the fuse/obd2 cover to fit the gauge connector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You are very welcome!

And...yes I did fit the cover to the connector. Reason being is that I didn't want to leave the fuse box cover off full-time. Also, you can honestly just cut the little scoop handle off of the back of the cover and the connector will fit reasonably well, however, I noticed that when you attempt to put the cover back on, the obdII connector gets pushed up along with the OEM obdII input. I didn't like that and didn't want it to cause and issue so I found that the problem was the cable that comes off of the AEM connector juts out and causes the fuse cover not to close properly...hence why I cut neatly around it. I have another OEM cover to replace this one, so I wasn't too worried...however, you barely notice it anyways. The only people that would see it would probably be a shop or dealership.
 

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With that all said, I wanted this gauge as a way to monitor some of the parameters that our vehicles do not have a gauge for. Oil pressure, exhaust temp, fuel leanness and richness, and boost. Now -- the first three, oil pressure, exhaust temp, and fuel all are monitored by our stock ECU's.

Are you saying oil pressure is reported by ECU? I could not find it with ScanGauge... I must dig into it a bit more. When I get the time and weather improves, I will put the gauge back on (I got electric for oil pressure and mechanical for boost).


But I assumed boost was as well - however - I'm not quite sure how the car actually measures boost. There are three pressures that this gauge can monitor - manifold, boost, and a third that I can not remember off the top of my head. Well, I know it's not measuring manifold pressure when I have it set to INT.P (Intake Pressure) since manifold pressure is usually measured in N/A cars only and to boot, manifold pressure is HIGH when at idle and low when you are on throttle. That isn't the case here.

The numbers I'm getting are at idle 4.5-5.0 psi and then at normal throttle around 12-14.5 psi. However, when I go full throttle I'm peaking at 31 psi. There is no way that our cars make 31 psi of boost so my only theory regarding this measurement is actual intake psi - as in the first O2 Sensor connecting to our air intakes. Now, please, any of the senior members on here, please correct me if I'm wrong. :)
So here is the thing.
You can read pressure in different ways.

First lets start with gauge.
There is PSIG (G - gauge) and PSI (or PSIA - A-absolute). The difference between them is the former is in relation to atmospheric pressure, while the latter reads Absolute pressure, where the reference point is absolute vacuum.
Ambient pressure is about 14.7 PSI. Therefore, if the compressor boosts it by another 15 PSI you can read Absolute Manifold Pressure as 29.7. Those cars make about 18 PSI so that you can easily see 32 PSI.

Now, at idle you will have a slight vacuum, but the reading will vary depending on engine load.
The best reference point is engine braking. Say more than 2000 rpm or more and let off the gas. This will read somewhere at -20 in Hg (that is normal vacuum reading - inch of Mercury). Negative 20 in Hg is about -9.8 PSIG, or about +5 PSIA. So your readings are OK.

In short - your gauge reads Absolute Manifold Pressure where the MAP sensor is calibrated to report 14.7 at engine off.
Verify that - engine off, what is the reading? If +14.7 PSI you are good.

I honestly prefer mechanical gauge as it is faster.


How did you route the cable?
 

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Being tuned heavily with a super turbo certain things I dont trust electronic returns.

One is boost/vacuum. I want to see actual. Not interpreted. Not even from a ECM. From the intake manifold. The source for the electronic sensor but and actual vac line to the gauge. Thats why I went to a true throttle plate system. Screw the queer little solenoid protection. All it does is interfere. Yeah I know, its supposed to be for protection, blah,blah. Nope.
Mine was tuned out by TORK. He just made my boost commanded much more accurate than the stock tune.

The other is oil pressure. I want and actual mechanical sourced reading from the internals them selves. The vacuum and pressure of the pistons themselves can produce the readings you speak of. That doesnt necessarily mean the oil is flowing at the designed parameters of pressure warranted.( Especially to the turbo). My oil pressure is placed in the oil sandwhich plate. Its an exact reading That is close to the return from the turbo return oil line. The pressure is accurate.
 

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Thats why I went to a true throttle plate system. Screw the queer little solenoid protection. All it does is interfere. Yeah I know, its supposed to be for protection, blah,blah. Nope.
Mine was tuned out by TORK. He just made my boost commanded much more accurate than the stock tune.
Forgive me ignorance, but what is true throttle plate system for boost reading?
Most of folks here use vacuum block that, as you might know, sits under MAP and gets direct and true pressure from the intake manifold. I think that is very accurate. ECU may be a bit slower and that is what I noticed. Mechanical boost gauge jumps quickly while electronic readback from MAP through ECU into the gauge is much slower. Sure, my gauge could be poor quality... or the bits got lost :)

Anyway, where did you plug in yours exactly?

My oil pressure is placed in the oil sandwhich plate. Its an exact reading That is close to the return from the turbo return oil line. The pressure is accurate.
For this one I could argue. Just bear with me, and try to follow the argument, OK?

Oil pressure reading at the end of the line may not be the most accurate due to the fact there is no restriction in the return line so that the oil will flow easily. Hence, barely any pressure.
On the other hand - reading from the very beginning is not accurate either. It says what the pump can produce and most of the time will read high pressure.

Now, to get the best of it one would need to points.
The point you chose (close to return) and the initial (where the transducer is).
Why?
Here is why.
The initial point will say what oil pressure is being sent to engine internals. If there is a clog in the line the pressure will be high, but FLOW will be minimal. One would think - my oil pump works great, which may be true, yet does not allow to see a problem down the line.
On the other hand, low pressure - it may mean pump is dying or oil flows so easily (too thin). Or pump is dying. Or else.
Therefore, you get readback from the end. If this is relatively high (as high it can be) it means there is a good flow. Even being on the very end you will be reading pressure.

The other scenario - the end readback - very similar scenario... you may not really address the problem.


All in all.
If it works for you, great. I was just wondering what is the correlation between these two and how you got your line in there.
 

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Just an FYI about the OBDII port on our cars - it's just secured by 2 plastic tabs... Pinch the sides and there is room to push it back and leave it.

This way you wouldn't have to cut the small plastic panel while having your gauge plugged in.

I use a cheap ELM reader and Torque. I just push the OBD port back, plug in the reader and put the plastic fuse panel cover back on.
 

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(Forgive me ignorance, but what is true throttle plate system for boost reading?
Most of folks here use vacuum block that, as you might know, sits under MAP and gets direct and true pressure from the intake manifold. I think that is very accurate. ECU may be a bit slower and that is what I noticed. Mechanical boost gauge jumps quickly while electronic readback from MAP through ECU into the gauge is much slower.)


Agreed,Its all related.:eek:
Its an actual reading. This for your own refrence during driving. I went to this as my tune and then turbo went more aggressive. For example. The Torque app won't give you higher than 22.8 psi. (Even if your pushing 24). **At least with a ELM. Our ECM cant even read above 28, and is designed to shut down at or above that.
**TORK over wrote my ECM when I was a 1.5 with the stock turbo. I could make 29 psi.(And stretched my head bolts! LOL.)
The stock system uses the solenoid as a security layer/cutoff for the ECM to regulate boost. This results in a delay. An electrical delay (its stil fast), but a delay nonetheless. I use a vac block too at the same location. Its is a vac line to a gauge. It might seem Tangerine vs Orange, but once you go to a throttle plate vs solenoid, response is no comparison.
I only post this for those wanting to really get aggressive with their tune or upgrade their turbo. Fully oem slightly tuned, ignore this.

Our "oil pump" amounts to a gear,lol.

As to where I put my pressure sensor, my Equus guy recommended where he did because it is near the end of the line. If there is a change or a problem thats where you will see it first. Its a constant. He also informed me that there is a internal oil pressure regulator /cutoff. The ECM only allows a given amount of oil pressure from 5K and above.

***The el cheapo ELM327 is just fine for oem or slighlty tuned. I use the more expensive MX because it is "faster" and suits my throttle plate setup. I went to this on the advice of TORK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Are you saying oil pressure is reported by ECU? I could not find it with ScanGauge... I must dig into it a bit more. When I get the time and weather improves, I will put the gauge back on (I got electric for oil pressure and mechanical for boost).




So here is the thing.
You can read pressure in different ways.

First lets start with gauge.
There is PSIG (G - gauge) and PSI (or PSIA - A-absolute). The difference between them is the former is in relation to atmospheric pressure, while the latter reads Absolute pressure, where the reference point is absolute vacuum.
Ambient pressure is about 14.7 PSI. Therefore, if the compressor boosts it by another 15 PSI you can read Absolute Manifold Pressure as 29.7. Those cars make about 18 PSI so that you can easily see 32 PSI.

Now, at idle you will have a slight vacuum, but the reading will vary depending on engine load.
The best reference point is engine braking. Say more than 2000 rpm or more and let off the gas. This will read somewhere at -20 in Hg (that is normal vacuum reading - inch of Mercury). Negative 20 in Hg is about -9.8 PSIG, or about +5 PSIA. So your readings are OK.

In short - your gauge reads Absolute Manifold Pressure where the MAP sensor is calibrated to report 14.7 at engine off.
Verify that - engine off, what is the reading? If +14.7 PSI you are good.

I honestly prefer mechanical gauge as it is faster.


How did you route the cable?
sorry for the lack of response, been insanely busy. Sorry fellas.

Thanks so much for this info regarding the boost. Makes much more sense that you explained this. And everything you said was exact and on point from what I was seeing while monitoring boost.

As for oil pressure monitoring - I need to look back and see what the codes are once again - but there definitely is some sort of Oil monitoring that our cars monitor, but I'm not sure what it is. Believe it or not, I've really only kept it on the fuel monitor settings lately - seeing when the car runs lean and runs rich. So I'll get back to you on the oil pressure question.
 

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