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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was reading from the veloster forum and came across this thread

HOW TO: Fix the 'Power Output Wave' in 5 Minutes in 5 Simple Steps [PICTURES]

their problem seems oddly similar to ours granted that i know the airbox isn't exactly the same but perhaps somewhere in our airbox setup a modification can be made to help with our surges. is there any relation to their issue on our cars or is our surging a totally different issue?
 

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15ForteSX - what air filter do you have? And what grade fuel do you usually use? The micro-managing magnet is the LAMEST thing I have seen on a car in recent memory.
If your local fuel in Texas has a percentage of grain or corn alcohols, as Texas produces a hefty bit of corn, and I don't know much about refineries in Texas, or the Texas corn lobbyists, those "ethanol" mixed fuels, while perhaps fine for the N.A. Camry engines, will give laggy and saggy throttle responses on turbo vehicles. In California we call them "oxygenates" to keep the eco-freaks happy - the bizarre ignition and combustion properties make for inconsistent turbo performance; independent of a flapping magnet.
Any air filter restrictions (or airflow reductions etc) - will compound the problem from intake to turbo spool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i have a k&n drop in filter and use 89 gasoline.
it just seems like their results were greatly improved that maybe there was something we could do on ours.
 

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surges would not be ethanol related. Poor fuel would cause rather preignition and lowered power, but not really surges.

From what I can tell seeing boost gauge it is the boost that erratically increases. MAP did not really help. I will be going back to OEM to see difference after having testing it for two weeks or so.
 

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I don't feel any of these surges, mines an AT so maybe that makes a difference. I run only 93 octane gas and have a K&N drop in filter and have the upgraded (?) MAP sensor. The pcv system on the motor is also completely disabled and vented. I believe the pcv system that is constantly opening and closing and tainting the incoming fuel mixture contributes to poor driveability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
The pcv system on the motor is also completely disabled and vented. I believe the pcv system that is constantly opening and closing and tainting the incoming fuel mixture contributes to poor driveability.
when you say disabled and vented what do you mean exactly?
i haven't installed a catch can before and yet. i was thinking to save up for a nicer one but maybe i might just get a cheap add w1 can.
which one do you have or recommend? some have baffles and some dont, this and that, i'm not sure which is good to get for our cars.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Our OEM airbox is different....doesn't have that flap

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yeah i didn't remember seeing one. i was really bringing up how their modification helped with their surges and was trying to find a relation with our car and its setup to eliminate any of our unwanted surges that we have. i had been researching the use of the factory airbox to modify for higher flow and came across the surge subject. some guy on the veloster forum is making these custom modified stock airboxes with piping claiming the gains are very close to aftermarket setups but quieter.

here's a sample
Airbox Lid Resonator Removal - Page 3
 

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when you say disabled and vented what do you mean exactly?
i haven't installed a catch can before and yet. i was thinking to save up for a nicer one but maybe i might just get a cheap add w1 can.
which one do you have or recommend? some have baffles and some dont, this and that, i'm not sure which is good to get for our cars.
What is a "w1 can"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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when you say disabled and vented what do you mean exactly?
i haven't installed a catch can before and yet. i was thinking to save up for a nicer one but maybe i might just get a cheap add w1 can.
which one do you have or recommend? some have baffles and some dont, this and that, i'm not sure which is good to get for our cars.
I have two lines coming from the ports on the valve cover that are both vented to atmosphere. The port that connected to the intake was oily after a thousand miles so I knew oil & vapor was getting in to the intake system. I researched oil catch cans but they do not completely stop all the oil & vapor from going back in to the motor and they become part of the intake system that must be pressurized under boost. This is especially detrimental to GDI Turbo motors. The air intake port on the valve cover becomes pressurized under boost and dumps oil & vapor in to the intake system because the pcv valve closes under boost. As we all know here GDI motors suffer from carboned up valves mainly from the pcv system. I also don't like the fact that the pcv valve has to slam shut reliably and completely during boost possibly causing boost leakage. By venting both these lines to atmosphere I completely eliminate any oil or vapor from getting in to the intake system and greatly reduce the chance of carbon building up on the valves. I drilled out a spare pcv valve and put it in place where the oe valve was. I plugged the intake manifold line that was connected to the pcv valve. So now I have no garbage oil & vapor being introduced in to the intake system to dilute the fuel mixture and no longer have the possibility of a boost pressurization leak from the pcv valve. This info came from reading different posts on turbo engine forums from engine builders and tuners.

I will add that if your are running a catch can system you should put a one way check valve in before the catch can so the whole catch can system doesn't cause a boost leak or need to be pressurized during boost. Add a second catch can as a breather only on the intake side. This is the set up I considered before just going full vta on my car.
 

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Oh....I think the lumpiness will be be there for awhile....I don't notice it as much but always drive with Trac/stab off (unless raining) and have a 3.5 intake, map sensor update, catch cans, gutted 2nd 🐈/muffler delete...IR delete, bov upgrade.

Also at 33k miles, the car feels pretty smooth, the walls I would hit while accelerating aren't there anymore (not sure why) but overall am happy with where the car is....

I think a fmic once other members move one and a tune once I test this oil to see how the engine is, will put it where it should be until I'm done with ownership

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have two lines coming from the ports on the valve cover that are both vented to atmosphere. The port that connected to the intake was oily after a thousand miles so I knew oil & vapor was getting in to the intake system. I researched oil catch cans but they do not completely stop all the oil & vapor from going back in to the motor and they become part of the intake system that must be pressurized under boost. This is especially detrimental to GDI Turbo motors. The air intake port on the valve cover becomes pressurized under boost and dumps oil & vapor in to the intake system because the pcv valve closes under boost. As we all know here GDI motors suffer from carboned up valves mainly from the pcv system. I also don't like the fact that the pcv valve has to slam shut reliably and completely during boost possibly causing boost leakage. By venting both these lines to atmosphere I completely eliminate any oil or vapor from getting in to the intake system and greatly reduce the chance of carbon building up on the valves. I drilled out a spare pcv valve and put it in place where the oe valve was. I plugged the intake manifold line that was connected to the pcv valve. So now I have no garbage oil & vapor being introduced in to the intake system to dilute the fuel mixture and no longer have the possibility of a boost pressurization leak from the pcv valve. This info came from reading different posts on turbo engine forums from engine builders and tuners.

I will add that if your are running a catch can system you should put a one way check valve in before the catch can so the whole catch can system doesn't cause a boost leak or need to be pressurized during boost. Add a second catch can as a breather only on the intake side. This is the set up I considered before just going full vta on my car.
do you have pictures of the connections of your catch can setup you can post?
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh....I think the lumpiness will be be there for awhile....I don't notice it as much but always drive with Trac/stab off (unless raining) and have a 3.5 intake, map sensor update, catch cans, gutted 2nd ��/muffler delete...IR delete, bov upgrade.

Also at 33k miles, the car feels pretty smooth, the walls I would hit while accelerating aren't there anymore (not sure why) but overall am happy with where the car is....

I think a fmic once other members move one and a tune once I test this oil to see how the engine is, will put it where it should be until I'm done with ownership

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
have you tried removing the clutch switch harness?
http://www.forteturbo.org/forum/36-kia-forte-turbo-diy-section/1081-clutch-switch.html

i have yet to try it out even some others on the veloster forum seem to like it
Throttle lag ?
 

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do you have pictures of the connections of your catch can setup you can post?
I don't have a catch can. I just have two 3/8" lines coming from the two ports on the valve cover. I replaced the original pcv valve with a drilled out pcv valve. Both lines run down to the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I don't have a catch can. I just have two 3/8" lines coming from the two ports on the valve cover. I replaced the original pcv valve with a drilled out pcv valve. Both lines run down to the ground.
oh i see what you mean. was it hard to drill out the pcv valve?
i would like to do this too and want to see a picture of how you routed yours.
any side effects to this? i guess i'm also wondering why get a catch can when you can just do this.
 

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I don't have a catch can. I just have two 3/8" lines coming from the two ports on the valve cover. I replaced the original pcv valve with a drilled out pcv valve. Both lines run down to the ground.
Doesn't it dribble all over your garage, parking spot or pavement and then just drip where ever you park the car?
 

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Doesn't it dribble all over your garage, parking spot or pavement and then just drip where ever you park the car?
There's some leakage, it's a slightly oily/watery drip. The next version of this set up will be in to a vented can that can be emptied when needed. Drilling out the pcv valve was a bit of a pain, the spring loaded check valve kept spinning as I was drilling it. Took a little bit but I got all the way through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There's some leakage, it's a slightly oily/watery drip. The next version of this set up will be in to a vented can that can be emptied when needed. Drilling out the pcv valve was a bit of a pain, the spring loaded check valve kept spinning as I was drilling it. Took a little bit but I got all the way through it.
granted it's not a permanent setup, it still deserves some recognition and if you have the time to post some pics please do. i never thought to do this and man being broke enough to not buy a catch can i should be doing this!!
 
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I'll get a few pics up of the final set up. it's just 2 lines run to the ground now, not much to see.
 
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