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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I was monitoring temperature of ATF recently.
Thinking of adding a cooler, byt I have several questions to guys who know more. Educate me.

When my daily commute - it barely reaches 60 C/140 F (ambient being about 20-30 C/68-86 F). Sometimes it would get to 80 C/176 F.
However, any longer trip makes it jump to 90 C/194 F or even above 100 C/212F if I push the car - especially driving on highway faster (above 70 mph). The highest I had it was at about 105 C/221 F.

Hence, I decided to finally get a cooler.
I was looking on this one:
Series 10000 Stack Plate : 10 Row Series 10000 Stack Plate Transmission Cooler Kit
I would rather have it longer so that it runs across the front.

The first question - shall it be located rather on the top or the bottom? I would technically think the top of the radiator is preferred location due to heat discharge from it would not cause radiator any problem (coolant would be hotter then anyway). However, the bottom location (where FMIC would be) is better for air flow, but I would be dumping heat into radiator and condenser - their last path that is the coldest. So in the end I would be warming them up...

Unless I go with a different one that is more "squary"... and then it would sit on one side of the radiator.


Then, once it is there, or even before.
Question - do Fortes come with bypass valve or the fluid goes 100% all the time into the cooler?

My thinking.
On summer and fast driving - I need extra cooling.
But then, on winter, with larger cooler, the ATF will be frozen all the time. Hence, a thermostat would be nice.
Fluid Control Thermostats : 3/8" NPT Fluid Control Thermostat
I would rather have it at 60 C, maybe 65 C, than 78 C as they set it.

My observations tell me there is no bypass at all.
Also, my wife's 500X has tranny cooler and it is mounted on the very top (that made me thinking that this is the best location).
I could not measure temp yet as I did not find compatible xGauge.


So please, add some info here. Maybe other suggestions.
I thought about Forte5 solution, and same of Gaijin.
But I am not going with FMIC. Not yet at least. For now I do not see any justified reason for it. Sure, better cooling, but the cost is a bit too much. And this would push me to get tune, which drains even more. :)
Regardless, though, I was thinking of 0, or 0.5 tune. Maybe 1.0, with spark plugs, and drop KN, but without FMIC. Just enough to get the ride/power a bit better and get rid off the soot problem.
 

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Honestly since I put my cooler with the fan my car will touch 185 max on the fwy at 70mph. But it drops fast since it has a fan on it. When in the city I to notice it stays around 150-165 but I figure it's because it's not spinning as fast to get everything hot. I am going to do a trans drain and refill and see if my oil is burnt from all the canyon runs and the fwy runs I do and go from there. But I have noticed she shifts better now with this cooler since the fluid doesn't get heated up by the radiator coolant.

My original plan was to mount it on the top of the crash bar where the original i.c was so it can get a good flow but since your not doing a fmic best bet is the lower spot during summer and winter move it above if you guys get to the freezing zone.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

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You dont need to go FMIC to gain great advantage with this. You do need to change how you think about the oem piggy back system though. As an AT the transaxle piks up heat from the engine as efficiently as the cooling system if not more during decel or engine braking.

Depending on how efficient your trans cooler/fan combo is you can dump so much heat its funny. I say this because when you have ar real powerful ATF cooling system like I did, it also leached heat from the co mixing oem portion in the end.

Yes what Im saying is that a setup like mine, or Forte's has the potential to directly effect the cooling system proper. Not the other way around like the straight oem parasite system.
Good ATF wont freeze.

Unlike engine oil, the ATF being cool or even cold does not hurt the transaxle operation. If you want logs. Dead of the winter no fan operation just static cooler ATF is 98.6. If you still concerned, just put a piece of cardboard over the cooler in the winter.

I would ve parted the sytem out, but USAA is paying for the parts as an aftermarket. Its all theirs now.
 

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You dont need to go FMIC to gain great advantage with this. You do need to change how you think about the oem piggy back system though. As an AT the transaxle piks up heat from the engine as efficiently as the cooling system if not more during decel or engine braking.

Depending on how efficient your trans cooler/fan combo is you can dump so much heat its funny. I say this because when you have ar real powerful ATF cooling system like I did, it also leached heat from the co mixing oem portion in the end.

Yes what Im saying is that a setup like mine, or Forte's has the potential to directly effect the cooling system proper. Not the other way around like the straight oem parasite system.
Good ATF wont freeze.

Unlike engine oil, the ATF being cool or even cold does not hurt the transaxle operation. If you want logs. Dead of the winter no fan operation just static cooler ATF is 98.6. If you still concerned, just put a piece of cardboard over the cooler in the winter.

I would ve parted the sytem out, but USAA is paying for the parts as an aftermarket. Its all theirs now.
would you say anything different for manuals?
also whats a good one to get for someone on the budget?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
would you say anything different for manuals?
also whats a good one to get for someone on the budget?
Manuals do not have cooler and rather do not need one. Besides, adding one would be a big task - there is no outlets for the oil to flow, there is no pump to pump it...


You dont need to go FMIC to gain great advantage with this. You do need to change how you think about the oem piggy back system though. As an AT the transaxle piks up heat from the engine as efficiently as the cooling system if not more during decel or engine braking.

Depending on how efficient your trans cooler/fan combo is you can dump so much heat its funny. I say this because when you have ar real powerful ATF cooling system like I did, it also leached heat from the co mixing oem portion in the end.

Yes what Im saying is that a setup like mine, or Forte's has the potential to directly effect the cooling system proper. Not the other way around like the straight oem parasite system.
Good ATF wont freeze.

Unlike engine oil, the ATF being cool or even cold does not hurt the transaxle operation. If you want logs. Dead of the winter no fan operation just static cooler ATF is 98.6. If you still concerned, just put a piece of cardboard over the cooler in the winter.

I would ve parted the sytem out, but USAA is paying for the parts as an aftermarket. Its all theirs now.
I see what you are saying.
Wouldn't thick cold ATF be a problem on winter days? Like delayed shifts, or jerking?

I looked up your system (yeah, I was hoping you could part out the car and get some parts dirt cheap here... but well, that is better for you to get the money back - that is awesome).
So anyway - your system is rated at 12k BTU to 19k BTU. The cooler I chose is 14k BTU, so should suffice.
It is still small, though. About 11x6x1.5.
It supposedly have so called cold bypass built in - whatever that is.

I was trying to find what is the BTU of OEM cooling system (rating of ATF cooler in the radiator). Maybe Matt would know?
I was also debating on bypass OEM or do it in series, but my idea was to get the radiator a break and redirect the heat somewhere else.

It seems I will be putting it behind the intercooler with a fan. Also, I must see how I could duct air flow from the bottom, to the cooler only.
 

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I'm not familiar with manual gearbox oil. I dont know if there even is a cooler in the oem system for manual gearbox oil.

One can make their own system by using any fan cooler combo made by any of the US companies.(B&M) Just peruse JEGGS catalog. The important art of it is creating a good mounting system which one can use galvanized deck hangar you can get at any home depot or the like. Fashion your own with galvanized deck materials. Stuff is made to take serious wgt. Use the existng oem line coming from the passenger side low in the frame. Attach low in the cooler. Exit high to the upper intake fixture on the transaxle. Cooler is mounted on the driver side. Your really not adding any pressure drop or excessive lines. Use AN8 plumbing, the same as oem. It fills low to high and spills back into the AT. This is the preferred flow, and thats not my opinion, thats from a Hyundai transaxle enginneer.

**You must custom make a louvered screen for the wheel well. The fan should be in "pull" setup on the back side of the cooler. This way when the fan is not in operation, the static setup is still recieveing cooling from the air pressure provided by the cars movement. When needed the fan pulls it through, the hot air exits out the louver in the wheel well. Air pressure is provided via the drivers side fog light apeture. I had the fog light vent mod with the light and a portion of screen worked like ganbusters. Without the louver the system will not work well. I'll see if I cant scavenge pics for this. Its not expensive at all. The premade kits are ridiculously expensive.

Do it in series, the effect is cumulative, and draws heat even from the cooling system in the end.
I know Fortes are different but you have something down there low in front of your driverside wheel well.
 

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I found it !!!

This high lights a SETRAB SLM 250. I didnt even use a fan and it still worked !!! I used this interim when I was waiting on a new FMIC setup and piping and the SETRAB dual system. Even the static cooler worked with the SSturbo !!! This cooler is not cheap, and ended up being my auxillary turbo coolant line.

Enjoy, get some ideas,...apply to your Forte real estate. The Wheel well vent really works.:p

Setrab SLM 250 AT trans cooler


Those louvers came with two, they were like 10 bucks !!!!

Also hook your fan to a "wireless" agricultural sprayer assembly. These things are great. Little key FOB you leave in you consol. Only turn it on when you really need it or want it. Like when your are going to shut down, and you are running a torque diagnostic as a turbo timer. Even if its under a "thermostat" setting it pulls even more heat out as your turbo is cooling down before shut off. Oil/coolant/ATF they are all interelated systemically.
 
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