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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As some may have seen I have gotten some very poor information from a shop in regards oil and misc other stuff...
So I know I have read somewhere on here about using a special product to clean our intake valves. I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing and don't have a serious mistake. There was a video and it was about a civic non turbo vtec so I'm not sure but I thought some of you guys used it. anyways my car only has 4300 miles on it 1300 since I put mobile 1 in it. I will change asap but well just havnt. I will use amzoil from here on out since its local and easy to acquire.

Summary... How and what product should I be using to keep them valves clean if any at all.

Does it make my valves that dirty by running mobile 1 for an oil change interval. Will never again!!!!
 

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Valves are gonna get dirty no matter what oil you use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I understand but isn't this a1 much more likely to cause this or just over many miles is it where you get the lspi
 

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Personally I use Sea Foam through a drip line with a air bleed regulator to control flow (similar to a IV). Haven't pulled the intake for 20K miles so I really have no clue how bad it is now at 40K and my endoscope camera died lol.

Catch cans will help prevent the build up but nothing will completely stop it from occurring. There are VTs with the same motor with over 100K totally stock and still run fine (not saying they have clean intake valves) so running a midgrade oil that is better than the dealer uses won't have that much of an effect in only 3000 miles.
 
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I understand but isn't this a1 much more likely to cause this or just over many miles is it where you get the lspi
Many other things can cause LSPI also like carbon or contaminate build up inside the cylinder (build up on plugs, top of pistons, face of the valve) along with bad or low octane fuel, accelerating to aggressive at low rpms in higher gears <--- most likely lol. Then after 25-30K unmaintained miles when the build up on the valve is thick enough to flake and fall in the cylinder it could start causing pre-ignition issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cool thanks for the info! Now even without a tune we should run 91? because I have always thought this was tossin money out the window. I know a lot of guys are running 91 but is it necessary for a stock tune? doesn't the book say 87? seafoam ill remember but can you toss me a link of what it is? Thanks!
 

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87 is all you need for the stock tune. Just stick to a top tier gas.
Cool thanks for the info! Now even without a tune we should run 91? because I have always thought this was tossin money out the window. I know a lot of guys are running 91 but is it necessary for a stock tune? doesn't the book say 87? seafoam ill remember but can you toss me a link of what it is? Thanks!
To each there own as to what fuel you want to run but IMO if you want to lower the chance of LSPI or any pre-ignition/knock in general run a higher octane fuel. Yes the manual does say you can use 87 but I really doubt they are saying run 87 and drive it like you stole it and you will get the same performance as if you ran 93. There are videos on you tube saying there is no benefit to using higher octane but also take into consideration what vehicles they are putting on the dyno. Not one is considered high compression or is boosted let alone both together.

Proof is at the track, my car with 93 full tank and a fresh ECU reset (stock tune) ran 14.56 1/4 mile avg 3 runs, those 3 runs gave me room in the tank to add 1 gallon of homebrew mix (toulene, xylene, 114 race gas, 1 oz of 2 stroke oil to negate the affect of the first 2 ingredient). This would give me a mix of approx. 95.5 octane and back to a full tank, reset the ECU again after a few rev and idling to use up the fuel in the line and run again. Now at 14.34 avg of the 3 runs, have I done this test against 87 compared to 93 no because I won't put 87 in my car lol.
 
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Caezar got some weird results while data logging that the car actually performed better with 87 and actually pulled timing on premium.
 

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20160331_221558.jpg I found this in the owners. Manual me personally I use 93 or 91 here in puerto rico the 87 is really crap hope this helps
 

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As PYMM said earlier kinda. GDI valves cannot be cleaned using traditional methods as our injectors spray after the valves. I had a 2.0 Forte (granny driven) with 30 k on it come through with random and cyl#2 misfire codes. It was also in for a 30k service which included a fuel service that runs a chemical exclusively through the rail and injectors. Fuel pump relay removed. I screwed some plugs in it (OEM), did the fuel service, misfire remained. Removed intake and the valve stems were carboned up the size of your pinky. Fuel service VIA injector did absolutely nothing. Spark plug replacement did nothing. Misfire remained. 12 miles of "spirited", "comprehensive" driving squared it right up. When we get oddball misfires on the GDI Tech support always asks if the vehicle is granny driven in a round about way. Flogging the piss out of it is the fix, in a roundabout way. The intake IV drip is the only way to currently clean GDI valves a bit if at all. Catch can is the best way to prevent build up. I actually talked with my Valvoline rep today and they are about to release something new just for GDI engines. I will believe it when I see it.
 

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I want to try that crc spray for gdi motors. Not sure if it is crap or if it actually works good
 

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does that page say anything about adding a fuel cleaner at every oil change?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
87 is all you need for the stock tune. Just stick to a top tier gas.
Please excuse the ignorance but what would the qualifier of top tier gas be? Or how do I find out what places are best. Since I'm in Minnesota I know I have a few different gas stations then down south but either way...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
never mind I did some reading and ive figured out top tier gas. Ive been running that anyways just never put to thought about what it was.
 
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