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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure there are many posts on this topic, but be b*ggered if I can find them :).

So, if anyone knows how to reset the ECU would they mind replying to this post. I seem to recall reading something ages ago about disconnecting the negative battery lead and leaving for half an hour. Is that correct?

Also, if you reset the ECU does that clear all 'systems' setups eg; programmed radio stations, downloaded phone contacts etc?

I am getting fed up with my car losing power (some of you may have seen some other posts I made on this topic, mostly mid-last year ie; before the Kia tech guys blew up my engine while testing for the cause of my power drop). Well, it seems the power drop is back and I want to reset the ECU to see if that 'clears' the problem - I have a suspicion the adaptive provisions of the computer are 'de-tuning' things, with the consequential drop in performance. It's the only thing I can think of, since it seems the problem has reappeared on my completely new engine.

Thanks,

Johno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks 2014:1.6lT :).

Anyone else got the same advice? Also, anyone know if resetting the ECU (by disconnecting the negative terminal) clears all the systems set-ups, like programmed stations, downloaded phone contacts etc?

Cheers,

Johno.
 

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Idk about the programed stations etc, I think it saves them.
Just be sure all your doors and windows are closed 100%
If they aren't the automatic window roll down when you open/shut the door (only Koup I think) won't work....
 

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Disconnecting it for a long period of time will reset everything.

Often if you just remove the battery cable for a few seconds, then put it back on you'll still find that your clock & radio stations do not get reset.

Disconnecting the battery for a long time will ensure that all electrical charge gets consumed... Kinda the same idea as a laptop charger... If you disconnect it from an outlet you'll still notice it charging the laptop for a few second longer.

Actually when playing with airbags at all (not literally) but for example removing the steering wheel, its a good idea to disconnect the battery, then turn the head lights on to ensure that all the current gets discharged... Wait some time then start your work.
 

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please explain about losing power. is it when the engine is still cold? during wot? does it happen sometimes? does it drop boost or just feel flat? some on here might be able to help with personal experience of something like this
 

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disconnect the negative cable then hit the brakes, the brake lights will drain anything that is holding power i.e. capacitors in the computer.

from what it looks like, you have a koup, make sure when you disconnect the negative cable, your door is open so that way when the power is disconnected the window is in the "open" mode where it wont hit the window seal.
 

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When you disconnect the negative cable, the systems will "reset", but not the headunit stuff cause it has internal memory for phone and music. Draining the system with the brake lights is a good idea I haven't tried. Also, if you're Canadian, the reset will permanently change your temperature to Fahrenheit. I cannot figure out how to change back to Celcius, but last time I took it too the dealer, they reverted it back to Celcius. Although, I keep going back to Fahrenheit cause I unplug it often. I've finally adjusted to the Fahrenheit system because of this! Haven't noticed anything else going to defaults... trip computer seems to have internal memory too.
 

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For the outside temp, just hold the minute and hour buttons for 3-5 secs.

For the climate control, it's in your owners manual and posted elsewhere here, but IIRC you press the and hold the Off button and then press and hold the auto button for 3-5 seconds.
 

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Not a problem.. When I picked up my car it was still set to Fahrenheit.

Funny enough the Features booklet you get tells you how to change the outside temp to Celsius, but not how to do it for the climate control. I had to Google that myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
please explain about losing power. is it when the engine is still cold? during wot? does it happen sometimes? does it drop boost or just feel flat? some on here might be able to help with personal experience of something like this
I don't want to hijack this thread, but since I started the thread in the first place I think I can answer your question - my loss of power is pretty much the same as my problems last year and on which I posted two or three times. The car will rev a lot under acceleration, but the 'push in the seat' power feeling isn't there. It's noticeable in all gears. it doesn't feel like a drop in boost, it feels like there's no boost at all. It happens all the time ie; there doesn't appear to be any situations which 'trigger' the problem - it is simply there all the time. I see most other members on this forum saying how grunty their Forte 5 / Koup is and I just don't have that. I've had it in the past (when the car was new) but the power gradually fades away, hence my suspicion that the adaptive settings on the computer are de-tuning the car to the point where it is semi-gutless. When this issue arose last year the Kia tech guys looked at my car many times before one of them eventually blew it up (and it had only 10,000kms on the clock). The engine was replaced under warranty and the new engine worked fine initially, but now it is losing power just like the old engine did. It is frustrating for sure because the grunty little pocket-rocket I bought isn't there anymore and I don;t know what to do to get it back. There's no point going back to Kia because I did all that with the old engine and they couldn't find anything wrong. BTW, I don't think it's a blow off valve tear / leak either because I've taken off the re-circulation hose so the BOV vents to atmosphere - I can hear when the BOV opens and it seems to be performing properly. To be fair, the problem is not yet as bad as it got with my old engine, but the downward trend is disturbing and frustrating. I remember the 'kick in the seat' pull the car used to have, and it just doesn't have it anymore. After the last service (when I asked them to re-set the ECU) it seemed better, so hence my post re; re-setting the ECU myself. I am going to give that a try (maybe this weekend) and see if it helps.
 

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Doesn't ECU have a separate fuse that would be enough to pull to reset ECU?
 

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dont forget to roll your windows down slightly if you have a koup and pull the power from the car so you dont break a seal or window
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So, I started this thread because I wanted to see if resetting the ECU 'fixed' my loss of power problem (as described in this thread, and in other posts I have made over the last year or so). Manually resetting the ECU by disconnecting the negative lead to the battery seems to help the problem, but it is only temporary, and I can't be bothered disconnecting the negative lead every week or so. My Kia dealer has looked at the car (yet again!) and discussed it with Kia NZ who have also looked at the car - they say the loss of power is 'normal' and is the result of the ECU adaptive settings de-tuning the car to its most fuel efficient mode of operation. You guys in the US must have different ECU setups because I don't see any of you complaining about the problem I have (and have always had, from about 6 months after I got the car). I can't understand why Kia would make a car that's clearly intended to be a 'warm' hatch equivalent and then set up the ECU so it de-tunes it to be a gutless small capacity 4 cylinder. So, that's it. I'm done with this car - it's not the car I initially bought, and definitely not the car I would want (in this mode), and I can't be bothered mucking around with it anymore - I am thoroughly p*ssed off and will be trading it as soon as I can.

Enjoy your cars, because it seems that at least you can.

Cheers.
 

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Enjoy your cars, because it seems that at least you can.

Cheers.
Can you monitor boost?
I can tell you for sure I can see power loss in mine as well. Some days it is good, some other is weak...
However, I think it is related to boos pressure. Hence, I will be investigating this issue once I get the gauge installed to see exactly what numbers I get. With that I can talk to KIA to find out what is going on.

I understand your frustration, though. I feel the same with mine. I will give it some time to see what is the problem here.
The ultimate solution would be ECU tune.


Sorry John. I wonder if the issue lies within the ECU, specifically the one you have. Maybe it's crapping out.

Where are you from btw?
New Zealand, I guess, based on KIA NZ.
 

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You will loose power depending on climate. For a dealership to say it's detuning itself is stupid. They don't do that at all unless it detects a knock or retards timing according to the climate, fuel ect.
 
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