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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
That's what it's called right? When after the normal half second of slight lag the turbo hits hard, suddenly and inconsistently... Well, that's the symptoms anyway, but that may be because I only put a couple hundred miles on after the ECO reset that went along with the res delete. Then I accidentally put regular in and it's much smoother now, takes longer for boost to build, but definitely smoother driving... Strange. Well, just goes to show that a tune, even a Stage 0 may be required for our cars to run right on anything but regular. Stock, it adjusts timing with premium, but to where it takes away drivability, however enthusiasts may like the hard sudden turbo hit that way, I know I would if I didn't drive Lyft sometimes. :)
 

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I've been running 93 octane since the "free" dealer gas ran out and haven't noticed any issue like that but I still have the oe intake resonator. I read somewhere that replacing the stock resonator hurts some bottom end torque so that stopped me from making that change. So far I have a K&N panel filter, updated MAP sensor and vented intake hose. This weekend I'm going to vent the PCV breather to eliminate all blow by from getting in to the intake system. I tried removing the intake grill snorkel but it seemed to produce an initial throttle lag so I put that snorkel back on. Maybe you could try some 89 octane gas or just mix half a tank of regular and half a tank of premium and see how it runs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've been running 93 octane since the "free" dealer gas ran out and haven't noticed any issue like that but I still have the oe intake resonator. I read somewhere that replacing the stock resonator hurts some bottom end torque so that stopped me from making that change. So far I have a K&N panel filter, updated MAP sensor and vented intake hose. This weekend I'm going to vent the PCV breather to eliminate all blow by from getting in to the intake system. I tried removing the intake grill snorkel but it seemed to produce an initial throttle lag so I put that snorkel back on. Maybe you could try some 89 octane gas or just mix half a tank of regular and half a tank of premium and see how it runs.
I just replied in the break in oil thread, but no, I don't notice any less low-end torque with the res delete, the loss is so small that it's not noticeable and it really seems to help with mid to upper power but especially helps with that occasional stuttering accelerating out of the lower RPM's, so it's more than worth it...

After my 2nd day with regular gas, I don't like it... I know our car is rated and tuned for 87 octane, but there is a noticeable difference in how how much sooner and harder the turbo hits with premium so I'm going back to that. Sure it's smoother for daily driving, but man, I now miss that turbo hitting hard and soon as it did.

As far as intake, I just took off top lid of the snorkel, after pulling the whole thing originally, I noticed the hole it left in the air box the hole was far too low for the rainy area where I live so I put back the snorkel box and just took off the lid... It didn't add much noticeable sound at all but I figure if the engine needs to pull a little more air under load it's available, otherwise, path of least resistance will be air coming in from the front mainly. I'm not happy the only real air filter option is an oiled $52 K&N, I wish their AEM division made a Dry Flo for it!

So did you actually puncture the stock "accordion" rubber intake hose? How did you "vent" it? I have no plans to mess with the PCV system, I'm going to go intake with catch cans if I decide to keep the car long term and fully mod. Also, tell me more about this updated MAP, I'm curious...
 

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I just replied in the break in oil thread, but no, I don't notice any less low-end torque with the res delete, the loss is so small that it's not noticeable and it really seems to help with mid to upper power but especially helps with that occasional stuttering accelerating out of the lower RPM's, so it's more than worth it...

After my 2nd day with regular gas, I don't like it... I know our car is rated and tuned for 87 octane, but there is a noticeable difference in how how much sooner and harder the turbo hits with premium so I'm going back to that. Sure it's smoother for daily driving, but man, I now miss that turbo hitting hard and soon as it did.

As far as intake, I just took off top lid of the snorkel, after pulling the whole thing originally, I noticed the hole it left in the air box the hole was far too low for the rainy area where I live so I put back the snorkel box and just took off the lid... It didn't add much noticeable sound at all but I figure if the engine needs to pull a little more air under load it's available, otherwise, path of least resistance will be air coming in from the front mainly. I'm not happy the only real air filter option is an oiled $52 K&N, I wish their AEM division made a Dry Flo for it!

So did you actually puncture the stock "accordion" rubber intake hose? How did you "vent" it? I have no plans to mess with the PCV system, I'm going to go intake with catch cans if I decide to keep the car long term and fully mod. Also, tell me more about this updated MAP, I'm curious...
As far as the fresh air line, I just pulled it off the intake and plugged the intake. I then got a small $10.00 pod filter and put that on a 2' foot piece of 3/8 fuel line and wire tied the whole thing down through the engine compartment. I'll do the same thing w the pcv vent on the valve cover but I'm going to either drill out the pcv itself or get something without a check valve in it that threads in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As far as the fresh air line, I just pulled it off the intake and plugged the intake. I then got a small $10.00 pod filter and put that on a 2' foot piece of 3/8 fuel line and wire tied the whole thing down through the engine compartment. I'll do the same thing w the pcv vent on the valve cover but I'm going to either drill out the pcv itself or get something without a check valve in it that threads in.
I see, so PCV breather filters instead of full PCV or catch cans, good idea to keep oil out of the intake on a turbo, I just wonder how often that filter will need to be cleaned and will it spit out oily residue all over my engine bay or the ground... I guess I'm a bit of a environmentalist, I don't believe in running with no cat (but the 2nd is going for sure) or spitting oil on the ground, but I totally get why others do it, including my buddies so it's all good. :)
 

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I see, so PCV breather filters instead of full PCV or catch cans, good idea to keep oil out of the intake on a turbo, I just wonder how often that filter will need to be cleaned and will it spit out oily residue all over my engine bay or the ground... I guess I'm a bit of a environmentalist, I don't believe in running with no cat (but the 2nd is going for sure) or spitting oil on the ground, but I totally get why others do it, including my buddies so it's all good. :)
How frequently one must clean or dump their OCC's is dependent on several things:

1. Octane of fuel and if there is ethanol or not. Ethanols draw and produce moisture. No ethanols do not.
2. How close the OCC is to the engine. Farther away means cooler=more condensation released=more accumulation faster.
3. Type of oil run. STD or synth blend will yield more crap. Higher visocity synth yields less crap. A 5w 30 yields more gunk than a 5w 40 both are approved by Hyund/KIA for the 1.6T.
4. Stop the breather line into the intake. All of your blowby under boost is vectored into you intake. This in theory is to "burn" the stuff. In reality it dirties up your entire IC and compressor side of your turbo. It also poses and increased risk of predetonation from the residue buildup breaking off and making its way into your cylinder over time.

Sorry, Fuck the KOALa's.:mad:

Soloution

Low side OCC (PCV line). Closed system, checked every 500 miles. ADD ones are great here.
High side. Vented and drained OCC. One lower line to a breather filter which dumps directly to the street. Higher line breather draws clean air. Saikou Michis are perfect for this position.

Or you can buy 6th elements two can system.

I'll get some pics for you. Hold on.
 

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Here you go

So here is the PCV side. Simple enough. Laid in a spot where you can check her easily.
IMG_20170416_115627_821.jpg

Here is the high side OCC off the breather:

Situationally when in vacuum, the can takes filtered air in.
Under boost it pushes all the blowby down (RED)
IMG_20170416_115613_689.jpg

All this crap goes down straight to the road. No fire risk, no greasy crap. No dirty intake, no dirty valves.
Screenshot_2017-04-16-11-54-48.jpg

The choice is yours:

breather to intake over time
Carbon-Buildup.jpg

Or be like me: 70K
2015-10-27-11-36-51.jpg
 

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Nice set up Gaijiin. I chose to fully vent both ports on the valve cover to atmosphere. I drilled out a spare pcv valve and used 3/8" fuel line to extend the ports to down below behind the drivers side headlight and put small filters on each line. Depending on what I see after driving w this set up a while I might run both lines to a vented breather can. There is now zero oil mist, or vapor of any kind getting in to the intake manifold or the intake track. This will keep the valves clean and stop any oil from getting in the intercooler or turbo. I did a lot of reading on this subject and this was the best set up for TGDI motors that I could find. I also checked the new MAP sensor I put in a few hundred miles ago and it already had some oil on it, cleaned it w MAF sensor cleaner before putting it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
How frequently one must clean or dump their OCC's is dependent on several things:

1. Octane of fuel and if there is ethanol or not. Ethanols draw and produce moisture. No ethanols do not.
2. How close the OCC is to the engine. Farther away means cooler=more condensation released=more accumulation faster.
3. Type of oil run. STD or synth blend will yield more crap. Higher visocity synth yields less crap. A 5w 30 yields more gunk than a 5w 40 both are approved by Hyund/KIA for the 1.6T.
4. Stop the breather line into the intake. All of your blowby under boost is vectored into you intake. This in theory is to "burn" the stuff. In reality it dirties up your entire IC and compressor side of your turbo. It also poses and increased risk of predetonation from the residue buildup breaking off and making its way into your cylinder over time.

Sorry, Fuck the KOALa's.:mad:

Soloution

Low side OCC (PCV line). Closed system, checked every 500 miles. ADD ones are great here.
High side. Vented and drained OCC. One lower line to a breather filter which dumps directly to the street. Higher line breather draws clean air. Saikou Michis are perfect for this position.

Or you can buy 6th elements two can system.

I'll get some pics for you. Hold on.
I guess I'm not up to speed enough on all the details, I don't really understand the different options out there, so I suppose I should just focus on a dual catch can system if I decide to keep the car long term... Thanks for the info!

Edit: OK, so I'm trying to understand why they offer single and dual, does one keep gunk out of the intake manifold and one out of the IC? Those 6th setups are really expensive, I'm sure there are others out there too... This is my 2nd car in a row that's T-GDI ('06 Audi A4) and for some reason I didn't hear as much talk about catch cans with them, of course some but seems like they were resigned to doing full carbon cleanings every 100k...

Edit2: Tork has a good write up on their web page for their catch can, it looks like the breather side is the one to at least do first...
 
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