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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. I haven't posted here much, since my car is completely stock and you guys seem to be into modifications. However, I'm hoping I can get some advice.

A few weeks ago I got a check engine light and a P2261 code. The car has been running great lately, better than ever. I've got 95,000 miles on it and this is my first engine issue. I suspected the BOV, but first checked the resistance on the RCV (recirculation valve) and it was in spec. So I ordered a new Kia BOV. It took a couple of weeks to arrive and in the meantime, the CEL went out. On Sunday, while coming back from skiing in NH, the light came back on. With it, I could hear a "whoosh" noise when I let off the gas to shift. I figured this was caused by the torn BOV and would go away when I replaced it.

Today I replaced the BOV (it had a small tear in the diaphragm) and took the car for a spin. The car still runs great, but the whoosh noise is still there when I let off the gas to shift. I'm concerned for two reasons. One, it's never made this noise before, so something is different. Second, the car has been noticeably peppier than ever before. This extra peppiness happened when I changed the plugs (stock Kia) at 90k miles along with the air filter. This is the second time I have changed the plugs and the first time there was no difference in performance. The NGK plugs had the identical part number.

I have not been able to clear the check engine light yet, since I loaned my interface to a friend. I suspect the CEL will go out, if not, I'm at a loss as to what is going on.
 

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Mods only here? No... At least my mods are limited. And all are reversible.


Anyway.
What air filter did you put? the whoosh you hear is recirculation/venting the intercooler.
Here is my story - I replaced air filter with KN. Since then I can hear the whoosh. Before then I could hear it too, tiny bit, but now it is much more pronounced. Also, if the clamps on the airbox are not tight - that's what you will hear.
Another one to make it is the recirculation hose. Is it intact? Does it have clamps nice and tight? And finally - the arm in the front of the airbox. It has a foam filter on the neck. Filter moved or gone - whoosh will go out.
All of these are there to minimise the sound.

Just to make sure.
Is that the sound you hear?
https://youtu.be/hwzqfVjsZPc?t=94
or this?
https://youtu.be/Vwqa39ZPzD8?t=12


As for the CEL.
Reasons can be many - from BOV to lose bolts on the compressor. Faulty/dirty MAP. Wastegate issues. Vacuum leaks.
What else is related to boost pressure and release of such?

When you shift BOV drops pressure, wastegate opens to slow down turbo.
If one of them is messing up - then you got problems. Leaks on vacuum will not lift the BOV long enough.
So hard to say what is the real cause now without going through several steps of excluding other possible problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Good stuff, thanks. I'll do some more checking.

I used the OEM Kia air filter, same as always.

The recirculation hose looked good and the clamp is tight.

I'll have to check on the foam filter. I didn't notice anything when I removed the air box to get to the BOV, but I wasn't looking for it.

I've got a lot of driving to do today, I'll see how things go and if I notice any other issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've decided to order the RCV Solenoid Control Valve. I've tested the current one and the resistance is within spec., but the valve could still hang up. The noise I'm getting is more of a fluttering sound, a bit like a pigeon cooing. I'm thinking the RCV valve is not opening completely and not pulling the BOV open enough to allow clean air flow. This is all conjecture, but since I can only see that there are 2 parts to this system, I'm hoping replacing both will solve my problem.
 

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Flutter is related to not venting...

Did you check vacuum lines?
Start easy, with basic stuff, before you spend money on expensive parts.

Also, oil can be a problem as I see some in the intercooler. Thin film on the hot side, but I am at 24k miles only. Maybe cleaning is enough?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've checked all the vacuum lines and they are fine, basically look like new. The BOV was definitely bad, you can see the tear in the diaphragm. The new RCV comes with new vacuum lines, so all will get replaced. The RCV is $80 with shipping and taxes, so not too expensive. If it does not solve the problem, the car is heading to the Kia dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I received the RCV solenoid valve today. It came with new hoses and clamps, which is very nice. I installed it, which isn't too hard, getting the vacuum hoses off and back on was the toughest part. I cleared the code and took it for a spin.

Problem solved! No more BOV fluttering or CEL. I drove it for about a 1/2 hour and checked for pending codes when I got home, but there were none. I'm wondering if the BOV and RCV often fail together. If someone else runs into this problem, I would suggest replacing both. It's about $150 for both parts and since they are close together, the extra labor is minimal.
 

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Nice.
So was the solenoid sticky or it seemed to be more of an electrical nature of burned solenoid coil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I checked the resistance of the coil before I bought a new valve. It was within specs, so the coil was fine. I have the old one on my workbench, but haven't looked at it since the replacement. I drove the car today for about 3 hours and it's doing fine. I have to assume the solenoid was sticky. Maybe as a result of the tear in the BOV allowing contaminates into the solenoid valve?
 

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The tear should not matter as the air is clean (passed air filter).
However, if some oil residue found its way through the intercooler, one could argue it was enough to contaminate the solenoid slide guide.
 
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