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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I have been reading on the veloster forums trying to learn about this motor and I have read that some guys are changing their oil after the car hit 1k and says it runs smoother with the better oil in it. I am curious if we should do the same thing to ours or just wait till we hit the 3k mark. Right now I am at 1800 miles and really thinking about doing the change to mobil 1 this week but I am still debating it. If I do then I will post up if it helped or not.
 

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My dealer was real stringent about wanting to do the first oil change themselves at 3000 but they screwed that up... lol. My car was at 3000 when I had the roof painted and they were supposed to do the oil change and install the factory wheel locks, that have been in the hatch since new, at the same time. When I picked it up I saw the locks were installed and assumed the oil had been changed. I drove it straight home and up on to the ramps to change the oil out with a good synthetic. In hindsight, I should have looked at the dipstick but I didn't, I just pulled the oil plug and out comes the not so fresh black oil. So I replaced the oil filter with an OEM one and filled her back up.

After a few choice words with the service department they were fine with me doing it as long as I used an OEM filter and kept the receipts. It pisses me off though to think if I was a regular customer and not a "car guy" I could have been driving around another 5000 miles or so without an oil change. This is yet another reason why I do my own maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I understand that big time. I do all my own maintenance also. I was thinking of just going ahead and changing it out and keeping the receipts for it all in a folder marked with the miles on it also. I will just copy the receipts since it seems like they tend to fade away after a while
 

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I just got my first oil change at 7,500KM. The manual says you can do it at 12,000KM..

I brought it to one of those Jiffy lube places here and the guy was revving my engine like an idiot after they put in the new oil. I asked him why he did that and he said it was procedure. Did some searches to see if it was BS or the grease monkey wanted to hear the engine and it seems to be what these places do.


I'll be doing my own changes from now on. Hearing and seeing other people abuse my baby makes me want to strangle them.

Do you guys know the exact measurement of the oil filter? My dealer wants $10 per filter Canadian currency.

Also I read that you should check the dipstick occasionally to see if they've messed up the oil change for leaks or if the there are oil spots in case they didn't tighten it enough or used the wrong filter, as you mentioned earlier in this thread. Stories like these scare the hell out of 'non car guys' since we're pretty much at the mercy of these guys who already charge you an insane amount for labour and crazy markup for the parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I check my oil once a week. If there is some missing I just add to it. Thats the reason I don't let anyone work on my car and if they do I am right over them. I pay $12 us for my filters
 

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I check my oil once a week. If there is some missing I just add to it. Thats the reason I don't let anyone work on my car and if they do I am right over them. I pay $12 us for my filters
Hey, cool beans.

I'm definitely doing my own next time around. I think they put too much. I checked my dipstick and I see the oil is above the second line. Isn't it suppose to be in between them? Man, if the shit hits the fan and something goes wrong, Kia won't do jack for me because I didn't go to them. Better keep on top of it.
 

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I just got my first oil change last week and I got it at the dealer where I bought my car. I got $20 off my first oil change so I decided to pay the extra for fully synthetic which was $44 out of my own pocket and that was a huge mistake. Could of done it for almost half price on my own and my car was leaking oil after they changed it. I took it back a couple days later cause I thought they might of stripped the drain bolt but it ended up being the oil filter wasn't tight. So definitely be careful if the dealer does it for you
 

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Just need to put my 2 cents In he

1. Don't use anything ANYTHING but the stock filter made for the car
Trust me on this one. There actually bulletins from Kia about this. And I am tired of replacing motors because there some shit ass filter on it with the wrong relief valve in it

2. The only reason they suggest 7500 oil changes it strictly to lower cost of owning the vehicle. Is it ok? Sure . Do I recommend it no
Why? Because no matter how good the oil is for breaking down in a certain time frame
It still get contaminated
I.e breakdown of internal material/blow by
The list goes on
Go with 3500 mile oil changes with a decent oil and you'll be fine


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Just need to put my 2 cents In he

1. Don't use anything ANYTHING but the stock filter made for the car
Trust me on this one. There actually bulletins from Kia about this. And I am tired of replacing motors because there some shit ass filter on it with the wrong relief valve in it

2. The only reason they suggest 7500 oil changes it strictly to lower cost of owning the vehicle. Is it ok? Sure . Do I recommend it no
Why? Because no matter how good the oil is for breaking down in a certain time frame
It still get contaminated
I.e breakdown of internal material/blow by
The list goes on
Go with 3500 mile oil changes with a decent oil and you'll be fine


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off topic a little but the wifes 2015 Sorento came with oil changes for life, do you know what Kia uses for oil or does it vary by dealer? and what would you change the oil at for the 3.3L GDI? I think the dealer recommended 6000 km (3700miles) I am going to change my own oil on the Forte though and have not decide which oil to go with yet, thinking amsoil?
 

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We recommend 3750 so yeah that sounds good
And every dealer varies
Prolly semi synthetic


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We recommend 3750 so yeah that sounds good
And every dealer varies
Prolly semi synthetic


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luck you they have us doing every 7500, old people around here will be dead before it's due
 

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How many miles/kilometers if you use synthetics versus regular? I'm told synths can go longer.
 

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Just an fyi to everyone
It's advised to use Amsoil euro 5w40
This comes from Tork himself

Just wanted to throw this out there for everyone

If you don't know, the type of oil you use is very important with our application specifically. With lspi being a huge topic of convo in the Direct injection platforms, oil plays a huge roll in keeping you in the safe zone. If you take in consideration what lspi actually is, and how it can be "fueled" if you must. Then you would consider making the jump to spending you money wisely on some good oil


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I honestly think its just preference on the oil. I have been using mobil 1. I am going to try next royal purple or lucas. i used lucas in my last turbo car with no issue.

Biggest thing is to let the car car warm up and when your about to shut down let it sit and idle so the turbo and oil can cool down so the oil doesnt "bake" in the turbo. I know there is a certain term for what its called but forgot lol
 

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I honestly think its just preference on the oil. I have been using mobil 1. I am going to try next royal purple or lucas. i used lucas in my last turbo car with no issue.

Biggest thing is to let the car car warm up and when your about to shut down let it sit and idle so the turbo and oil can cool down so the oil doesnt "bake" in the turbo. I know there is a certain term for what its called but forgot lol
In this case you can throw preference out the door
Instead take in consideration what's good for you car in the long run.


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I am not saying Mobil 1 is not good
What I'm saying is that in our case it's not only protection that we need to worry about
In the end run a lot of these top tier brands wil ldo just fine when it comes to that
But what you have to take in consideration is
Other variables
I use royal purple right now
I will be switching to Amsoil for different reason to see how it performs
This is a really boring video. But the information is prime. After listening to what he has to say you will understand the importance of what oil we should be using.
After watching that, you will understand where I'm coming from


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Watched it. Gist I got out of it was they don't know why, but high quality synthetic oil seems to help resist LSPI.

Kind of scares me about getting a tune to be honest, because I know KIA would love to not have to pay my bill for their prob. If I need a spare ECU to flash to, do I need to get in touch with you or Tork, Knee? Lol
 

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Watched it. Gist I got out of it was they don't know why, but high quality synthetic oil seems to help resist LSPI.

Kind of scares me about getting a tune to be honest, because I know KIA would love to not have to pay my bill for their prob. If I need a spare ECU to flash to, do I need to get in touch with you or Tork, Knee? Lol
There is no reason to be scared about getting tune. Your thought process is actually backwards when it comes to that
Getting the tune would actually keep you safer from an lspi event
We do not have to worry about lspi like the earlier gen velosters do. But it's still a topic that should be taken seriously. So getting a tune and using the correct oil keep you in the safe zone
I know I keep talking about lspi and I'm serious when it comes to it. But in the end run, we are in an extremely good position when it comes to it. Our stood tune is much better, and we have most of the current maps that would aid against an lspi event.
If you have been following the vt forums. Tork has actually offered free tune updates to anyone who has got a tune from him. This update consists of all of the most recent mapping from the 15' ecus. It was found that there are changes made to aid against this issue that differed from the earlier gen vt



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