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So before reading here I've always just got my oil changed at the dealer when the sticker told me to. (Every 5k miles.) Now after peeking at my manual and reading here it says every 3k miles and I'm thinking about going to the dealer and being very pissed off with the service manager. The dealer even said it would be okay to go up to a max of 7.5k miles BTW. I've driven my car hard as hell since I purchased it. If I never reset my MPG it would probably say around 21MPG and that's with 90%+ of my driving being on the highway. When I drive on street roads with no highway driving my MPG usually is around 15. Nothing is wrong with my car as far as I know besides fuel being cut off in 3rd at around 5k rpms. Before anyone asks as I think it's probably inevitable this is my first car I've ever actually wanted to mod. I've never owned a brand new car before this one (2015 Kia Forte5 SX just hit 18k miles and purchased last year around July). I've never modded any cars before this one either (6th CAI), In fact my experience with car maintenance in general is limited to -> Oil Changes, Replaced thermostat and radiator on a 94' Ranger, replacing an alternator on my dad's van, and finally installing a CAI and a set of NGK 1422's on my Forte. I don't even know what oil the dealer uses. I'm going to start doing my oil changes myself I guess.
  • Is there anything I should require of my dealer?
  • Do I have any right to require them to do anything? Maybe requiring that they purchase an extended warranty past my (10yr 100k mi bumper-bumper?)
  • So should I be as pissed at the dealer as I am?
  • Should I make it known that I'm pissed?
  • Anything else that I'm missing?


P.S. Thanks for all the great information here!
 

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Oil change intervals are 7500 miles and going 5000 is OK. 3000 - a bit overkill, unless the oil is really getting so bad, but I doubt it.

Was it brand new when you got it?
I am asking to find out if you gave it some brake-in period before pushing it hard. No engine likes hard brake-in.

Fuel problems - probably fuel lines kinking. Not so much, but common.

No, you do NOT have to be pissed off for oil changes. They are just fine.

Bumper to bumper 10/100 is pointless as 10/100 power train covers engine.


EDIT.

I take it back.
Somehow I missed the intervals. It DOES state 7500 for GDI, but TURBO calls for 5000 or 3000 miles under severe conditions.

My mistake.
 

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I think everyone can agree that you should start doing it every 3k now... So many posts on here as to why that interval is recommended.

Not much you're dealer is gonna do other than shrug their shoulders and say "sorry, we recommend that interval on all of our cars".

Half the techs don't know Kia offers a 1.6T.

God forbid you have issues and need to make a warranty claim Kia might look it and say "Well you're over the recommend interval by 2k miles each time... Sorry! Denied.". Worst case scenario mind you.

I'd be pissed too but then again you're responsible for reading the manual. Other stories I've read basically all end up with an apology from the dealer and Kia arguing that you could have used another one. But then you have the argument on your side saying that your dealer is Kia approved.

Regardless. Start changing at 3k intervals. Doubt your dealer is gonna say much. And I doubt any damage has occurred. Oil dilution is the issue here.
 

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The facts are these 1.6 T-GDI spray the underside of the pistons with fuel to cool them. The side result is fuel dilution of oil. If you are tuned, use higher boost this increases the dilution. 3K changes on the 1.6 are wise.

Not to mention the manual,......lol.

The way your driving sounds you should use the manuals severe duty intervals.
Buy a Fumoto valve for the drain. Go to your dealer for each oil changes filter. Buy from their parts counter, have them record the mileage and have them write the type of oil you use for the change. This is just as good as having them do it warranty wise. Pick any synthetic that meets the approval ratings in your manual.
 

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The manual calls for 3k for the first change and then 5k after that. So the dealer was technically OK recommending the 5k interval outside of the first one. The severe schedule calls for 3k. Only the non-turbo is good for 7,5000.

You definitely want to check their work though. Especially if they referenced the 7,500 number as it may mean they are using the non-turbo's oil too. I went to the dealer for the first change since it was free, and according to the paperwork they used the wrong oil weight and would not answer my question when I asked what oil they use and if it was ACEA A5 rated as the manual recommends. Just said "if it wasn't right Kia wouldn't let us do it"....
 

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If you use a good synthetic oil and good filter you can change your synth oil at 7500 - 8000 miles. The real proof is to have the oil analyzed and end the circular discussions.
Unless you have a compelling reason to change the oil at 3k - that's a monumental waste of oil and money.
 

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Well there's throwing your warranty out the window if you go above 5k for a pretty solid reason. And the smell of fuel in the oil is a good reason for 3k. It's a design flaw in turbo GDI engines that has taken us back to the stone age of oil change intervals.
 

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Well there's throwing your warranty out the window if you go above 5k for a pretty solid reason. And the smell of fuel in the oil is a good reason for 3k. It's a design flaw in turbo GDI engines that has taken us back to the stone age of oil change intervals.
This is correct^.
The VT forum is full of oil analysis which show unacceptable fuel dilutions at 3K. Its already been settled. Type of oil does not matter either. PUP, Amsoil, CERMA, they all get corrupted quickly. The more aggressive a driver you are the more frequent you should change it.

I've been known to change at 2 K !!! When I drive like an A hole boosting, meth all over the place,....I can smell it in the oil, I change it !!!
Bigger boost , higher CFM turbo means more moisture in the oil faster. Higher Octane fuel mixing and meth,..O God, the oil turns to sewage MO=Skosh!!!!

I know you guys are stock, but with these GDI's, frequent oil changes is money well spent.

Valley,...I have 5 gallon pails of custom oil made for me. The base is a pure 100% ester,...the formula comes from "air cooled" motorcycles. That means it can tolerate the highest heat ranges. It also has an acid neutralizing add pack, because I fuel mix. That helps, but by 3 K its crap!!! The closest thing you can relate to it is MOTUL 4T. Very expensive,..but cheaper than a failed SSTurbine.

Everyone has an opinion,...check out the pics of my motor apart at 50K. Spotless. Im 70K now, and routinely go 140mph.
 

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Yeah I don't think I'll be buying a GDI engine again unless I'm just planning to keep it 3 years or less.
 

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You see, fuel dilution would not be a problem if the engine temp was a bit higher.

I can give you an examples.
Sure, it is not GDI, but works.

I had 09 Elantra (2.0 MPI, NA). OEM thermostat was 82 C. I changed it to use 85 C. Per specs thermostats are +/-2 degrees. Must have happened OEM was closer to -2, while the replacement was rather +1. All in all - engine when running was about 87 C (previously 81). At lights it would creep up to 91 C. Never overheated. Never had any problems. However, the winters before the change I had lots of condensation on the oil cap. Winter after the change - barely anything. Oil was always same.
The bottom line is - hotter oil (just by a few degrees) and hotter engine caused all the fuel and water to be gone.
Oh, not to mention heating. Oh man, only 6 degrees, but it was really much warmer.

I might consider doing same thing for SX.


To add one more thing.
I do not know why, but I learnt one weird thing. American cars are running colder. Basically same engines in Europe and America, but different thermostat. Many which are here at 82 C, in Europe are 90 C or 95 C. Why?
 
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If you use a good synthetic oil and good filter you can change your synth oil at 7500 - 8000 miles. The real proof is to have the oil analyzed and end the circular discussions.
Unless you have a compelling reason to change the oil at 3k - that's a monumental waste of oil and money.
Please tell me why you think it's a good idea to go beyond the manfuacturers recommended OCI by more than double the mileage? Do you simply not care about the warranty?

If that's the case, you shouldn't be telling other people to directly go against what's clearly printed in our manuals. Especially for a T-GDI engine which operates far differently than an NA one.
 

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You see, fuel dilution would not be a problem if the engine temp was a bit higher.

I can give you an examples.
Sure, it is not GDI, but works.

I had 09 Elantra (2.0 MPI, NA). OEM thermostat was 82 C. I changed it to use 85 C. Per specs thermostats are +/-2 degrees. Must have happened OEM was closer to -2, while the replacement was rather +1. All in all - engine when running was about 87 C (previously 81). At lights it would creep up to 91 C. Never overheated. Never had any problems. However, the winters before the change I had lots of condensation on the oil cap. Winter after the change - barely anything. Oil was always same.
The bottom line is - hotter oil (just by a few degrees) and hotter engine caused all the fuel and water to be gone.
Oh, not to mention heating. Oh man, only 6 degrees, but it was really much warmer.

I might consider doing same thing for SX.


To add one more thing.
I do not know why, but I learnt one weird thing. American cars are running colder. Basically same engines in Europe and America, but different thermostat. Many which are here at 82 C, in Europe are 90 C or 95 C. Why?
Let me know if you do it (thermostat). I was thinking on the same lines.
Thanks
 
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