Apparently N75 and SXTH are now making ignition coils for our cars.
Anybody think that these are definitely going to be "better" than the MSD coils? Sounds like marketing gibberish to me, and they're just trying to get a piece of the market. But, maybe I'm wrong.

SXTH ignition coil preorder

N75 LR3 high performance ignition coil

They are not making their own coils. They have a contract to rebrand a coil that already exists.

 

Claims 5% gain in spark power. I personally would just stick with what has been working for us Racechip users and that is MSD. I don’t know for a fact we even need the Msd but it makes us all sleep better. 🙂The JB4 guys certainly need something however. They are having a car a week go down on other sites with mostly spark related issues.

 

Neither n75 or SXTH have the capitol to design and produce their own coils. And to both come up with their own coil line at the same time damn near....??? Give me a break. When I see stuff like this happening I know vendors are laughing their asses off when they are flying off the shelves.

 

If I were to go aftermarket ignition coils, it would be MSD, Accel or NGK. I currently run these in the Kias we have. I've had successfully ran these in the past. We'll let the N75 and SXTH faithful run these and observe what happens.

 

for the sake of preventive maintenance,
when is a good time to change coils and spark plugs.

thanks

 

The standard from the tuner I've talked with the most and what I've gone by for years is 40k plugs 60k coils. I err on the side of caution and he seems to too but like 2023BD said, the cost isn't that high for the insurance you gain.

 

If you are stock, plugs are an easy 50k and coils should be 100,000.

 

From reviews/dyno's I have seen, sounds like any gains or improvements is negligible if any over stock.......in particular our OEM coils?

 

Agreed, we do it as a precautionary measure to make sure the spark is strong enough at full boost and high rpm to avoid any ignition related issues that can retard timing or misfires. It might be overkill but $150-200 it is not that much of a financial burden. Plus if any spark/misfire issues arise you can simply revert back to stock plugs and coils to see if all is good again while avoiding a trip to dealer.

The 4-5psi added by Racechip seems like the perfect upper limit for the ignition system to be happy 100% of the time on regular fuels, stock gaps and ignition parts. The JB4 and ECU tune guys start having issues with misfires when they are adding 7-10psi. This is why they seem to NEED small plug gaps and cooler heat range combined with less ign timing. It becomes a delicate balance over 20psi it seems.

Swapping out the stock plugs with a 1mm center electrode diameter to an upgraded NGK option with a .6mm center electrode might be all that is needed to provide a stronger spark.

 

If I were to go aftermarket ignition coils, it would be MSD, Accel or NGK. I currently run these in the Kias we have. I've had successfully ran these in the past. We'll let the N75 and SXTH faithful run these and observe what happens.

Agreed, we do it as a precautionary measure to make sure the spark is strong enough at full boost and high rpm to avoid any ignition related issues that can retard timing or misfires. It might be overkill but $150-200 it is not that much of a financial burden. Plus if any spark/misfire issues arise you can simply revert back to stock plugs and coils to see if all is good again while avoiding a trip to dealer.

The 4-5psi added by Racechip seems like the perfect upper limit for the ignition system to be happy 100% of the time on regular fuels, stock gaps and ignition parts. The JB4 and ECU tune guys start having issues with misfires when they are adding 7-10psi. This is why they seem to NEED small plug gaps and cooler heat range combined with less ign timing. It becomes a delicate balance over 20psi it seems.

Swapping out the stock plugs with a 1mm center electrode diameter to an upgraded NGK option with a .6mm center electrode might be all that is needed to provide a stronger spark.

I don't understand why these guys push this tiny turbo out of its efficiency range. Above 7 psi over stock is just overheated boost. No wonder why there are these bandaid fixes

 

People don't understand or care. More boost is cool and you can brag to your friends about it. Plus without a lot of time on the Dyno it's hard to see the diminishing returns. More boost felt good initially so when you get used to +5 psi add +2 more and it'll feel good too right?
Wmi will help with the heat but at a certain point adding boost becomes pointless/dangerous.

 

You said it 100% right... they are all bandaid fixes. A larger turbo is what is really needed when you go full ECU tune. I know people say that a larger turbo is not needed on this platform, but when you've got a tuner that can program for it, that really is the only way to make REAL power with these.

 

Seems like the reason the JB4 and ECU tune guys have so many coil issues is probably due to the increased power demand required to fire properly under increased boost pressures. This demand must burn out the stock and MSD coils with the 20+ psi of boost. Thus the attempts of tighter gap and cooler heat range to try and hold off the inevitable failure.

 

Since SXTH came out with their own brand coils suddenly people are talking about all the MSD issues and coil failures. I’m leaning more toward the majority of this being a fanboy thing, brand loyalty and not an actual pre existing issue.

 

The first time I've read any failures on the MSD coils is on N75s webpage on their new coils about to be released. And that's the only place I've seen it.

 

With all the good info on this topic, I have decided to take a chance with the N75. We will know if this was a mistake or not? 🙂 I will give them the benefit of doubt.
Price is less then what I would pay for a set of MSD @ Summit. Not that this was the main factor. 3 years warranty.🤞

 

 

I had it installed. First impression is positive and I am very happy with it. It idle smoother and it seems to pull strong. It felt like the car just run smoother?

As you see from the pictures that the spring/contact extend to the very bottom thus making better contact with the spark plug.
Also the boot does not cover on the outer spark plug port but rather wedge inside it. You can see the diameter of the boot is much smaller then the oem. I hope it makes sense? Regardless it makes for an airtight fit and no debris will get inside the port.

 

Also the boot does not cover on the outer spark plug port but rather wedge inside it. You can see the diameter of the boot is much smaller then the oem. I hope it makes sense? Regardless it makes for an airtight fit and no debris will get inside the port.

That proves they are not just re-branded MSD coils. This makes me wonder now who is actually making them for N75.

 

I guess the N75 coils top seal do have to be tucked into the spark plug hole. That does not seem right to me. This is what people are being told by Daniel. I would prefer the MSD that seals correct personally.

 

This coil pack may have made for different model and may not specifically for the GT?

 

That would be my guess...

 

My MSD coils failed on me today. Luckily, I was able to make it home. The MSD coils have only been installed in the car for 5K miles. Pretty disappointing and obviously a waste of money.

Stock coils are back in and the car is running great!

Mike

 

Yikes sorry to hear.

 

That sucks. What plugs and gap do you run out of curiosity

 

NGK Ruthenium w/ factory gap specs.

Mike

 

Does anyone know if our coils are “dumb” or “smart”? @22GT2 ya there?

 

Smart since it is 3 wire. The third wire is the control signal for the built in igniter.

 

Looks like I should put one of my oem coils in the trunk with a ratchet with my wheel lock socket? Or if I should put my oem plugs back in?
I will see if you smarter guys can figure what causes these failures for a newbie to learn from. Tks.

 

I am on the fence with this situation. I have no issues with any of our cars with MSD coils yet. They all run the NGK 1402 at .031 gap. I am strongly considering putting the stock coils back in and keeping a set of MSD in the trunk in case one of the oem coils fails one day. Constantly see coil issues with Forte GT on all the social media platforms and it "seems" like stock and MSD fail at similar rates.

 

In

its not funny when it happens. Luckily it takes less than a minute to swap them out.

 

I would consider NGK U5369 coils. They are close to half the price of OEM.

 

Just did a quick google search of some of the most common reasons that cause ignition failure.
Not saying that it is one of the reasons but I had recently got rid of that plastic valve cover as I don’t see what purpose it serve other then cosmetic and may keep some debris from collect on the valve cover, I think? Plus I had remove that weather striping at the rear of the hood area to let some of the heat to escape from under the hood. Keep in mind that you will smell some exhaust gas from the engine bay drawn into your cabin through the vents. That happens only when the car is not moving. Once the car is in motion, it is all fine.
I had done this plus other measures for my Cobalt to improve the under hood temperature.


Fwiw.

6 Bad Ignition Coil Symptoms (+Causes, Diagnosis, and FAQs)

Experiencing loss of power or poor acceleration? These are some of the bad ignition coil symptoms. Find out the other signs, causes, precautions, and more.

www.autonationmobileservice.com

4 Causes of Ignition Coil Failure
Ignition coils usually last long but can fail prematurely for various reasons, such as a bad spark plug, heat, faulty coil wiring, fuel leaks, etc.
Here are the main causes of ignition coil failure:
1. Exposure to High Temperatures
When the ignition coil gets overheated, its ability to conduct electricity is hampered. Exposure to multiple heat cycles and high temperatures can cause the ignition coil to deteriorate faster than usual.
An overheated ignition coil can cause complete failure of the vehicle’s ignition system.
2. Damaged Spark Plug
Worn spark plugs can put more load on the ignition coil, forcing them to overcompensate and operate at a higher voltage.
The voltage overload can overheat the ignition coils and cause them to fail.
3. Engine Vibrations
Excessive vibrations can occur due to an engine misfire or problems associated with the spark plugs. Either way, it can significantly damage the ignition coil windings (primary coil and secondary coil) and their surrounding insulation.
It can also cause shorts or breaks in the secondary coil windings, leading to ignition coil malfunction.
4. Moisture
Moisture can damage the seal between the valve cover and the ignition coils.
Once the moisture spreads around the spark plugs and ignition coil, it can cause unwanted oxidation and corrosion, leading to a bad coil pack or complete ignition coil failure.

 

Just did a quick google search of some of the most common reasons that cause ignition failure.
Not saying that it is one of the reasons but I had recently got rid of that plastic valve cover as I don’t see what purpose it serve other then cosmetic and may keep some debris from collect on the valve cover, I think?

No covers on my engines either. Mice like making nests under them and the high pressure fuel pump gets so hot under it

 

I don’t have an engine cover on my 1.6T either, regardless, my MSD coil(s) failed. Fingers crossed on the factory coils, lol

Mike

 

So, for kicks, I bought the N75 coils. I figure, at the very least, I’ll have my OEMs as spares if I need them. I’ll let you guys know how it goes with the N75 coils.

Mike

 

Since the coil failures (stock or MSD) seem like one of the biggest issues it is nice to have a spare set to avoid the aggravation of a tow and visit to the dealer. I still have the MSD in ours with no issues and the oem coils are in a bag in the trunk in case I ever need them.

 

AFE Power wants in on the ignition coil market.

https://afepower.com/afe-power-77-92015-mb-scorcher-ignition-coil

 

$10 says they are all coming from the same place