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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello my fellow Forte enthusiasts!!!!
It has begun!! Just this past weekend my build was officially in progress
For those who do not know i am currently setting myself up to be the first... YES THE FIRST.. Forte 1.6 Turbo to be fully built with a stock modified turbo. There are plenty of directions i could of taken with this build but this specific setup is something i wanted to tackle. No its not the most powerful of them all, but being the first forte in the country to break 300 is something i felt was pretty cool!!!
So in the build thread i am going to be updating per the events that are taking place. From the motor being pulled all the way to the Dyno tuning event i have put together in PA.
So here we go!!!

Saturday 3/7/15

Came into work around 8am saturday morning to prepare to pull the motor. Luckily i do this for a living and have a good background/knowledge in the Kia world so this process was a breeze
As far as pulling a motor yes it is a very complicated process. But the more you do it the easier it gets.

Time to take the engine out clocked in roughly at 1.1 hours ( 1 hour 12 minutes )
For a quick reference labor hours for the Forte are as follows
14.0 Hours for Longblock
18.9 Hours For short block
Warranty
7.2 Hours for Longblock
10.6 Hours of Shortblock
As you can see, as a tech is really hard to make any money with warranty repairs!!!! UGH!!!

here are some picture of the removal. They are not step by step or extremely detailed.
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Aftere the removal process comes the break down. As of now there are a couple things that hold priority and needed to be stripped off the motor and shipped out
First came the stock turbo assembly. The turbo assembly needs to be removed from the engine and surrounding assembly and be shipped out to be "Stuffed"

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What is Stuffed?? Well as for the turbo it will be "Stuffed" or modified with a bigger compressor wheel. We are very lucky to have a vendor that is so involved in this platform and has done countless hours of R&D for basically everything possible on this platform. Yes, i am speaking of TORK MOTORSPORTS.. John @ Tork has made a custom compressor wheel for our stock K03 Turbo. There are countless options when it comes to this upgrade and as John always does, he wanted the best for this platform and of course all of us, the customer and enthusiasts. That being said, after many hours of R&D, a compressor wheel was born.
here is a picture of the finished product. This is not mine, but one i get it back from the Shop doing the work i will post up.
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This wheel was designed for the Hyundai turbine wheel and calculated to work with proper pressure ratio offset. There is such a thing as going to big, lol.

Target HP levels for this turbo is average 300-320 at 20-22 psi. Pushed to 26 psi we are expecting to see 350 WHP and pushed even further... race fuel... agressive tuning on a forged engine, we might be able to see 400 WHP.

This is going to be the upgrade for those who want to get that extra power without having to worry about drive-ability or pushing the stock components inside the engine.

This is a custom 6 blade billet compressor wheel that has been designed for the stock turbo cover. We could get a much larger compressor inside the cover but we were worried about the air "stacking" inside the compressor cover causing surge and other problems when running such a small compressor housing.

Next on the list to get ready was the flywheel. I have upgrade to a lightweight single mass flywheel by AASCO. Our stock flywheel is a Dual Mass and a monster at that (referring to weight) For those who don't know, Dual mass flywheels are designed to support the shock between the engine and trans to minimize the shock and driving feel to the driver. At the same time this also puts less stress on the engine/trans assembly as well. In return the drivability is much smoother and driving feel is altered in many ways. Many manufactures have this design, not only KIA/HYUNDAI. Dual Mass flywheels consist of either gears or dampeners internally that do the work. The issue with a Dual Mass is just another part to go bad. The higher power levels i will be producing will 100% reduce the life of the flywheel significantly. So instead of replacinga flywheel every XXX amount of miles, the best thing is to go to a Single Mass flywheel for a one time replacement. Not only do you loose the internal parts that would go bad over time, the weight of the flywheel also changes in our favor.
the new flywheel does not come with a ring gear. So in this case the ring gear needs to be removed from the stock flywheel and sent out to be heated and press onto the new flywheel. Removal of the ring gear just takes patience.
so i removed the ring gear and off it went in the mail!!!!!
Here are pictures and info on the flywheel


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AASCO's all Billet-aluminum flywheels are designed and manufactured in house/in the USA!
-Light-weight for improved performance and drastically reduced M.O.I.--Replaceable heat shield (friction surface), no need to surface flywheel--OEM clutches bolt on for easy installation--High tolerance manufacturing to insure a perfect hassle free installation--Designed for normal street use for every day performance enthusiasts-​
-Stepped dowel pins so they are held captive by the clutch cover--Racing parts available for the professional--Highest quality materials like 6061-T6 aluminum for the flywheel, treated steel for the heat shield and OEM quality starter ring gears--CAD designed/ CNC machined in house for the ultimate in quality control-
-One year limited warranty on production components-


These flywheels come in under 12lbs!!!
As far as the rest of the motor, i will be keeping everything intact for now until i receive all of the parts back that are required to put the motor back together. This way i have less parts laying around and things are more organized
So that brings us onto the new motor assembly.

I am very luck to have been able to buy a brand new short block as a spare motor to help this process along. Doing this gave me more time in the entire process since i wasn't forced to remove my motor to have the machine work done to the block. The block is a loaded short which means it comes with a crank/rods/pistons, fully installed and ready to be installed. Oddly enough a bare short block + crank is more expensive than the entire assembly.
here a picture of the New block:
First pic is of the assembly (upside down) on the stand with the upper oil pan still on
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The engine build consists of the following:
Forged Pistons
Forged Rods
Stock crank
Pistons and rod clearances are specd' to stock fitment. Same goes for the main bearings being used as well.
These forged internals are go for 700+. So as far as i see it this block will be bullet proof per the power we will be using. Even better yet down the line i plan to upgrade and go for more power so this block will support all the shit we throw on it from present to future.
The assembly will be getting a Full Blueprint and balance.
Here is a picture of the parts after the machinist laid then out on the table.
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This looks like fun
 

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Wish I had knees credit cards..... jk good luck with the build. It's going to be a lot of fun to watch.
 

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nice, the dyno shop next me, big open house/grand reopening is in april think it will be done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
nice, the dyno shop next me, big open house/grand reopening is in april think it will be done?
The build is already going to be done before April
Specifically April 11th
I have a Tork tuning event I put together on Veloster forums months back. (April 11-12)

I am so excited to get this done!!
 

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nice again, this one is on the 19 of april
 

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That is freaking awesome, can't wait to see it finished.
 

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I looked over at the veloster forum about that Tork tuning event. It's only like a 2 hour drive from me. Is there possibility for another Forte to attend?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I looked over at the veloster forum about that Tork tuning event. It's only like a 2 hour drive from me. Is there possibility for another Forte to attend?
@coolblaze

As of now we are packed full for the event
But I do have one member who says there in but are not very good with keeping current in the thread/paying up

I can give you two options:

1. I can put you on the standby list just incase we have someone drop out or if the member I speak of doesn't come current with the payments

2. You can attend the event but at this moment you will only be entitled to a bench flash tune
Before you say, "eh I want a Dyno tune not a bench flash."
Let me explain
Yes dyno tunes and bench flash tunes are very different
But when it comes to an event like this and getting a dyno tune it's not like your car will be on the dyno for hours getting dialed in to the T for the highest power possible
In an event like this the advantage you get to a dyno tune is getting a file flashed and being able to see the numbers you put down and yes if need be he will play with the file to squeak seome more power out. But what you have to understand it John has these tuning files by the balls. He knows what works and what doesn't. That being said the file you get will be damn near close to perfect anyways
Soooooo. You can attend the event but for now only for a bench flash tune. As I explained the only thing you loose is not seeing your numbers.
Regardless you get to kick it with everyone and it will be a good time
If this is something you are interested in please pm me and I can give you my personal cell phone so we can chat a little more
Thanks
Max
 

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Good job nice to see all the photos and the write up put together.. well written.. I would suggest.. when you have a total break down you submit your story to .. Super street.. its interesting and would get page reads..
 
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That's a great idea ku. Since the Forte is not a popular platform, it may help get more people buying/tuning the Forte.
Max, I thought before you said you were not a big fan of the drag strip. Just wondering if you were going to hit it up once your done to see what kind of numbers you put down? Also when you get a chance, and I think a member asked you this in a different thread but you should post some pictures of your wheels/tires.
 

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Max, I meant to ask this the other night when we chatted, but I forgot. Are you doing anything with the head? Mild P&P, oversized valves, etc? Seems like there might be some room in the head for a bit better flow...
 

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does our car have oil sprayers.. that cool the bottom of our pistons..
 
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