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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a 2014 kia forte koup sx fully loaded, so it has the nav. I'd like to keep the stock head unit, replace the door speakers along with adding dynamat to the doors, and add a sub. I've read that the HU limits the bass at higher volumes, so I was thinking about adding an active line out converter.

Here's my shopping list so far:
-Noico sound deadening mat (no asphalt) also, how many square feet would I need for the two doors?
-For the door speakers, Hertz Audio DCX 165.3 6.5" (non-amplified)
-For the sub, I'm looking for something compact that is still able to produce the deep bass tones at a reasonable price. I was thinking either a Kicker comp rt 12" (43TCWRT122) or the Pioneer 12" shallow mount sealed enclosure
-AudioControl LC2i active line out converter (to restore the bass tones)
-Boss Audio 1100 watt amplifier
-Boss audio 4 gauge wiring kit (I've had good luck with both Boss products in a previous setup)

Everything can be found on amazon.

I'd appreciate any advice or recommendations.
Thanks
 

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I recently purchased a 2014 kia forte koup sx fully loaded, so it has the nav. I'd like to keep the stock head unit, replace the door speakers along with adding dynamat to the doors, and add a sub. I've read that the HU limits the bass at higher volumes, so I was thinking about adding an active line out converter.

Here's my shopping list so far:
-Noico sound deadening mat (no asphalt) also, how many square feet would I need for the two doors?
-For the door speakers, Hertz Audio DCX 165.3 6.5" (non-amplified)
-For the sub, I'm looking for something compact that is still able to produce the deep bass tones at a reasonable price. I was thinking either a Kicker comp rt 12" (43TCWRT122) or the Pioneer 12" shallow mount sealed enclosure
-AudioControl LC2i active line out converter (to restore the bass tones)
-Boss Audio 1100 watt amplifier
-Boss audio 4 gauge wiring kit (I've had good luck with both Boss products in a previous setup)

Everything can be found on amazon.

I'd appreciate any advice or recommendations.
Thanks
sounds good so far check out the lc7i which has channels for subs.
the car seems well insulated but deadening doesnt hurt i guess.
if your gonna get a kicker sub get 15in cvx or 12in l7's for deeper bass.
if your box is gonna be a small low profiler just get a cvt instead but dont expect super bass.
subs have to be able to breath so the box if following the manf specs will be big in your trunk.
if your gonna be bassing you need to do the big3 and that includes the alt to bat cable.
wiring kit should at least be 4gauge brand doesnt matter just avoid cheap chinese crap.
thats pretty much the major things as far as i know.
others will chime in im sure. i have an lc7i myself that i still havent installed in my car yet.
i guess the sound isnt that terrible yet for me to do any changes.
perhaps when my speakers go bad heh
 

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My set up:
Pioneer 4200 w/Android auto $350ish
Kenwood eXcelon mono 1000w amp $95 refurb
Pioneer shallow mount 8" $50 used
Pioneer 7/8 inch speakers $35

All bought on Amazon. Plus the harness, SW control, 6v converter for camera, trim piece, etc.

Total to do the headunit was just over 400. This made the biggest improvement over anything. And it's what I would recommend you start with. Garbage in, garbage out and all that. I could shake the mirror a bit with just the OEM speakers and the sound is so much cleaner. Only things I don't like are I can't get the dimmer feature on the radio to work right (it works but the dash lights run it a different value from the sun load sensor so they are never in sync), it take a few clicks to get to the sub control, and the eq is a 13 band that only good up to 12.5khz.

Sub came next. Almost a year later and I want to go with another 8. This little guy digs decently deep and barely takes up any room and is downward firing so you can throw stuff on top. I went with the kenwood cause the eXcelon model has the sigma drive feature to help clean up the sound. Sadly no infrasonic filter though, but over all it add the depth I wanted at an awesome price and I have up very little room.

Then the tweeters. This really helps the clarity and staging. I modified the covers to compensate for the bigger size. But they are in no way harsh or tinny sounding.

I also bought the tuning mic to cut down on time for T/A and difference in seating positions in the settings which also requires volume offsets for the speakers. I also believe it modified above the 12.5 Limit of the eq for the tweeters.

Over all I happy for the money I have spent. In addition I have added an obdii bt dongle and with an app I can see some gauges when ever I need to by changing the screen. Plus Waze beta with traffic and constantly updated Google maps instead of the expensive nav software Kia put in. I do miss the extra music and nav icons on the dash though. This setup far outweighs the cons though.

On a side note they now have some other apps for Android auto to where you can watch YouTube, listen to any other music source and another where you can see you home video cameras.

P.s. sorry if the pics are huge. Tapatalk does not have access to the storage where my old pics are. But enjoy either way
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
sounds good so far check out the lc7i which has channels for subs.
the car seems well insulated but deadening doesnt hurt i guess.
if your gonna get a kicker sub get 15in cvx or 12in l7's for deeper bass.
if your box is gonna be a small low profiler just get a cvt instead but dont expect super bass.
subs have to be able to breath so the box if following the manf specs will be big in your trunk.
if your gonna be bassing you need to do the big3 and that includes the alt to bat cable.
wiring kit should at least be 4gauge brand doesnt matter just avoid cheap chinese crap.
thats pretty much the major things as far as i know.
others will chime in im sure. i have an lc7i myself that i still havent installed in my car yet.
i guess the sound isnt that terrible yet for me to do any changes.
perhaps when my speakers go bad heh
The LC2i has a subwoofer RCA output, so what would be the advantage of the LC7i if I'm only going to run one sub?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My set up:
Pioneer 4200 w/Android auto $350ish
Kenwood eXcelon mono 1000w amp $95 refurb
Pioneer shallow mount 8" $50 used
Pioneer 7/8 inch speakers $35

All bought on Amazon. Plus the harness, SW control, 6v converter for camera, trim piece, etc.

Total to do the headunit was just over 400. This made the biggest improvement over anything. And it's what I would recommend you start with. Garbage in, garbage out and all that. I could shake the mirror a bit with just the OEM speakers and the sound is so much cleaner. Only things I don't like are I can't get the dimmer feature on the radio to work right (it works but the dash lights run it a different value from the sun load sensor so they are never in sync), it take a few clicks to get to the sub control, and the eq is a 13 band that only good up to 12.5khz.

Sub came next. Almost a year later and I want to go with another 8. This little guy digs decently deep and barely takes up any room and is downward firing so you can throw stuff on top. I went with the kenwood cause the eXcelon model has the sigma drive feature to help clean up the sound. Sadly no infrasonic filter though, but over all it add the depth I wanted at an awesome price and I have up very little room.

Then the tweeters. This really helps the clarity and staging. I modified the covers to compensate for the bigger size. But they are in no way harsh or tinny sounding.

I also bought the tuning mic to cut down on time for T/A and difference in seating positions in the settings which also requires volume offsets for the speakers. I also believe it modified above the 12.5 Limit of the eq for the tweeters.

Over all I happy for the money I have spent. In addition I have added an obdii bt dongle and with an app I can see some gauges when ever I need to by changing the screen. Plus Waze beta with traffic and constantly updated Google maps instead of the expensive nav software Kia put in. I do miss the extra music and nav icons on the dash though. This setup far outweighs the cons though.

On a side note they now have some other apps for Android auto to where you can watch YouTube, listen to any other music source and another where you can see you home video cameras.

P.s. sorry if the pics are huge. Tapatalk does not have access to the storage where my old pics are. But enjoy either way
So do you think the 12 inch pioneer shallow mount subwoofer could produce ~30/35 hz clearly? I agree with what you said about being able to throw stuff on top of it since it's a down firing sub.
Also, did you buy another tweeter mount or just use the factory one? I thought about switching those too since they're so accessible.
 

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-Boss Audio 1100 watt amplifier -Boss audio 4 gauge wiring kit (I've had good luck with both Boss products in a previous setup) 1100 watt amplifier - will there be anything left of your eardrums? If you have any control of the stereo install wherein you can upgrade your speakers cables said:
If you have any control of the stereo install wherein you can upgrade your speakers cables, the OEM wiring is "dental floss"; I would recommend trying to incorporate better audio cables in your system.
There are threads here that show what myself and a few others used as speakers and amps with our installs.
Be sure and post up photos and/or video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you have any control of the stereo install wherein you can upgrade your speakers cables, the OEM wiring is "dental floss"; I would recommend trying to incorporate better audio cables in your system.
There are threads here that show what myself and a few others used as speakers and amps with our installs.
Be sure and post up photos and/or video.
You think that would help with distortion at all?
 

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You think that would help with distortion at all?
OH, yes, I"m a big fan of upgraded cables and speaker wire. You'll get very open sound, full frequency range, plenty of conductivity, channel separation etal.
You can experiment with (very cheaply) how cables and interconnects affect the sound of an audio system. If you have some favorite headphones, just buy an aftermarket headphone cable. Or get an upgraded HDMI cable and hook it to your flat screen sound bar. Buy a foot of some speaker cable and change out cables (thin stuff and better stuff) on a single driver (a spare speaker) and start comprehending what cables and interconnects do.

This miserly "dental floss" OEM "cheap-out" cost cutting stuff manufacturers do with cables and wires does audio performance no good.
 

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The LC2i has a subwoofer RCA output, so what would be the advantage of the LC7i if I'm only going to run one sub?
if you decide to power your 4 speakers in the car with an amp in the future.
it just seems people aren't all that satisfied with aftermarket speakers powered by the stock stereo.
its my belief that the stereo has custom crossover which is holding back more sound to the speakers.
not sure how bad the cut offs are but the lc7i has something called internal channel summing.
this can be done for door speakers as well as the sub to get all of the right freq to your speakers instead of it being limited by the deck.

Summed Outputs
The LC7i has the capability to combine together multiple (2, 4, or 6) input signals from the factory
source unit into 2 channels. In some vehicles there is an actively crossed-over tweeter, midrange,
and woofer all in the front of the vehicle. The LC7i lets you take all of those signals and sum them
together to get a high-quality, full-range, pre-amp signal. Simply move the summing jumper located
under the cover for the desired channel into the “Sum” position. If the green LED for that channel
is on, you know it is being summed into the main output.


You think that would help with distortion at all?
distortion can be caused by several things.
most of the time its improper gain/freq settings on the amp.
without an amp its caused by turning the volume knob too high because the shit stock stereo cant produce enough power.
other times its the speaker that can't handle certain freq.
everything in an audio system needs to be balanced.
people tend to overdo things on their setups and this is why there is distortion.
notice how oem stereo systems are perfect usually as they are well balanced even when cranking it up most of the time anyway.
 

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Valley racer, thanks for taking care if those pics. I'm gonna buy you a beer one of these days lol.

For tweeters, sadly I the OEM mount will not work. Right now the extended ring on the cover is what holds them down while they are wedged in with good pressure in the factory location. I did reuse the connector though. Here are the ones I bought and they are only 28 bucks right now
Pioneer TS-T110 7/8-Inch Hard-Dome Tweeter (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009QOU5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cUWyAbNZFV1DT

And I agree that wiring makes a big difference. But not on HDMI cables as that is a digital signal not an analog one which is where size matters. Digital either works or it doesn't.

1100 watts is nothing by the way. But will that amp really produce it, I dunno. Do you need that much power? Sometimes. It really depends on the speaker as well. The system needs to be matched. But on a side note it takes 10x the wattage to double the sound.

For the sub digging that deep they claim the 8 digs down to 20hz before it starts to fall off. So is it possible yes, but will probably require some good power and a good eq. But most music does not go that low. But I do agree it's good to have the capability just not a lot of probability in using it.
 

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Valley racer, thanks for taking care if those pics. I'm gonna buy you a beer one of these days lol.

For tweeters, sadly I the OEM mount will not work. Right now the extended ring on the cover is what holds them down while they are wedged in with good pressure in the factory location. I did reuse the connector though. Here are the ones I bought and they are only 28 bucks right now
Pioneer TS-T110 7/8-Inch Hard-Dome Tweeter (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009QOU5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cUWyAbNZFV1DT

And I agree that wiring makes a big difference. But not on HDMI cables as that is a digital signal not an analog one which is where size matters. Digital either works or it doesn't.

1100 watts is nothing by the way. But will that amp really produce it, I dunno. Do you need that much power? Sometimes. It really depends on the speaker as well. The system needs to be matched. But on a side note it takes 10x the wattage to double the sound.

For the sub digging that deep they claim the 8 digs down to 20hz before it starts to fall off. So is it possible yes, but will probably require some good power and a good eq. But most music does not go that low. But I do agree it's good to have the capability just not a lot of probability in using it.
Instead of beer - just use my PAYPAL acct! Don't be cheap either!

I had my installer friend disconnect the OEM tweeters. I don't miss them OR hear that they're gone. I was blasting my tunes today.

On your HDMI analysis - not quite. I purchased my favorite brand HDMI cables for my 4K TV - these, HDMI.jpg

Then they got damaged when my 4K TV fell over (yeah I was FU**ing pissed) DSCF4101.JPG

For an interim, my go-to guy was offering these HDMI cables, at an attractive price. They AINT SHIT compared to my favorite cables; AINT SHIT I tell ya Stating digital either works or doesn't is an over simplification. DSCF4107.JPG

The sonic and visual performance differences are immediately apparent; like dropping from to 1080 to 720 or AM to FM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Instead of beer - just use my PAYPAL acct! Don't be cheap either!

I had my installer friend disconnect the OEM tweeters. I don't miss them OR hear that they're gone. I was blasting my tunes today.
I'll have to decide if I really want to replace them or not for myself, I think the biggest thing I'm missing is the bass :( The stock door speakers can definitely produce enough to shake the mirrors, but when driving at highway speeds it sounds like they don't have any bass at all.
 

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I'll have to decide if I really want to replace them or not for myself, I think the biggest thing I'm missing is the bass :( The stock door speakers can definitely produce enough to shake the mirrors, but when driving at highway speeds it sounds like they don't have any bass at all.
Put a subwoofer in the trunk for REAL BASS - depending on what music and sound pressure levels you want. The OEM tweeters are trivial and weak. Did you see the photos I posted showing the OEM door speakers. They BE JUNK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Put a subwoofer in the trunk for REAL BASS - depending on what music and sound pressure levels you want. The OEM tweeters are trivial and weak. Did you see the photos I posted showing the OEM door speakers. They BE JUNK.
I did see the photos of the stock speakers and you're right, nothing impressive that's for sure. I think I'm leaning more towards the Pioneer 12" than the Kicker 12" that I listed after seeing your photos and how convenient it looked in the back!
 

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thats what i was trying to tell you the stock speakers are junk and any aftermarket wont help unless you give it adequate power via amp.
if you want a sub get 12" or larger for the deeper bass but above all get the required size box according to the manf specs.
kicker subs have a manual that will tell you the dimensions of the box ported or sealed.
if you want the bass to sound good stay away from those small profile boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thats what i was trying to tell you the stock speakers are junk and any aftermarket wont help unless you give it adequate power via amp.
if you want a sub get 12" or larger for the deeper bass but above all get the required size box according to the manf specs.
kicker subs have a manual that will tell you the dimensions of the box ported or sealed.
if you want the bass to sound good stay away from those small profile boxes.
Will do, Thanks!
 

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And Kuhndoga - you can always find DIY subwoofer kits. Back in SRT4 days, guys had DIY subwoofer kits they would STUFF full of foam and acoustic sheets, damping material - the things were INERT and then do your cables and amp options. I"ll bet 15ForteSX knows all about this stuff too.
 

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On your HDMI analysis - not quite. I purchased my favorite brand HDMI cables for my 4K TV - these,[iurl="http://www.forteturbo.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14962&stc=1&d=1516501624"]
[/iurl]

Then they got damaged when my 4K TV fell over (yeah I was FU**ing pissed)[iurl="http://www.forteturbo.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14970&stc=1&d=1516501771"]
[/iurl]

For an interim, my go-to guy was offering these HDMI cables, at an attractive price. They AINT SHIT compared to my favorite cables; AINT SHIT I tell ya Stating digital either works or doesn't is an over simplification.[iurl="http://www.forteturbo.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14978&stc=1&d=1516501901"]
[/iurl]

The sonic and visual performance differences are immediately apparent; like dropping from to 1080 to 720 or AM to FM.
Several articles like this
https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/are-expensive-hdmi-cables-worth-buying/

On a side not I buy all my cables from monoprice. They even have good prices on speaker and rca cables and are good quality. There is always better out there, it just depends on the budget. But with digital cables it either communicates or it doesn't. As long as the cable is up to the standard or the specs is required to meet.

Lastly on the size of the sub, the bigger the cone the more the mass of the speaker. Meaning it can dig deep, but it may get muddy quick. There are other factors like the suspension and such that play a role in this also. The tightest speakers I ever had were 2 12” lanzars. We didn't have as much fancy stuff as today and Metallica's one I could never get to sound right. So you need to figure out what music you want to listen to first. And then always have a way to adjust it (cover, slope, eq, phase, etc) cause it's an ongoing battle. Changes in temp, Windows up or down, passengers in the back seat, different recordings of music etc, etc.

So enjoy the ride and play it loud.... Except in shady neighborhoods or your own ?
 

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Several articles like this
https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/are-expensive-hdmi-cables-worth-buying/

On a side not I buy all my cables from monoprice. They even have good prices on speaker and rca cables and are good quality. There is always better out there, it just depends on the budget. But with digital cables it either communicates or it doesn't. As long as the cable is up to the standard or the specs is required to meet.

Lastly on the size of the sub, the bigger the cone the more the mass of the speaker. Meaning it can dig deep, but it may get muddy quick. There are other factors like the suspension and such that play a role in this also. The tightest speakers I ever had were 2 12” lanzars. We didn't have as much fancy stuff as today and Metallica's one I could never get to sound right. So you need to figure out what music you want to listen to first. And then always have a way to adjust it (cover, slope, eq, phase, etc) cause it's an ongoing battle. Changes in temp, Windows up or down, passengers in the back seat, different recordings of music etc, etc.

So enjoy the ride and play it loud.... Except in shady neighborhoods or your own ?
Scoobdude as you mentioned woofers, cabinets and things: isn't the best car audio practice to DIY On woofer kits and use THICK cabinet material and "stuffing" and robust woofers screws? Then ANCHOR the cabinets down tightly?
 
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