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Discussion Starter #1
So I feel like our motor is kinda small... I was wondering if anyone knew what it would take to bore this thing out .20 over. Maybe we could get more potential that way.

You know what they say "There's no replacement for displacement. "
 

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So I feel like our motor is kinda small... I was wondering if anyone knew what it would take to bore this thing out .20 over. Maybe we could get more potential that way.

You know what they say "There's no replacement for displacement. "
I wouldn't waste the time and money on trying to get more displacement from the 1.6L. The key is if you know what the other NA engine is that is available in this car and understand that it is the same block with different internal as the 2.0T from the Optima you would realize they already have this car set up to accept it. The exhaust manifold and turbo are the only changes needed to the 2.0T to set that drive-train right in using the Forte 2.0 engine bracket bracket and trans was the same (already did the test fit). With very little wiring changes (mainly just to lengthen a few sensor wires) and using the 1.6 ECU with a modified tune it will still be fully functioning inside and out. Only thing I still need to verify is the tooth count on the crankshaft for the sensor, most of the time they are for degree counts from TDC and revolutions. If the 1.6 is a 10° tooth and the 2.0 is a 12° I am not sure how the ECU would react to the change.
 
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So I feel like our motor is kinda small... I was wondering if anyone knew what it would take to bore this thing out .20 over. Maybe we could get more potential that way.

You know what they say "There's no replacement for displacement. "
.20 over is usually slang measured in US standard inches :) meaning bore size is increased by 0.020" in diameter.
- Our bore size is 77mm or 3.03".
- 3.03+0.02=3.05" or 77.47mm
- new volume of a cylinder is pi * radius of bore^2 * height of bore = 3.14159 * (7.7cm / 2)^2 * 8.54cm (stroke) = 402.545 cc
- we have 4 cylinder engine so 402.545 * 4 = 1,610cc or 1.61L

Kia/Hyundai call our engine 1.6L from the factory when in reality the math comes to 1.59L of total displacement. Going 0.020" over as you suggested barely gets us over what we are already advertised to have.

Like @playwithmymind said, totally not worth it lol :)

Also, our block is what is described as 'open deck' meaning there isn't much engine block material surrounding the cylinders. See picture below.
We are better off just installing a super strong rotating assembly part (pistons/rods/etc) and turning up the boost :):):)

43967ad3c62889c070a4f04169b0adb2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hell yeah. Thanks a ton guys. I do sheet metal for a living so I'm not the most technical mechanic in the world but what I seem to be gathering is that changing the internals out with ones made of stronger material or whatever will allow me to crank up the ol' boost and get some more ponies out of it.

I have a buddy with a focus st and he is always bragging about it. My goal is to whip his ass lol
 
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Hell yeah. Thanks a ton guys. I do sheet metal for a living so I'm not the most technical mechanic in the world but what I seem to be gathering is that changing the internals out with ones made of stronger material or whatever will allow me to crank up the ol' boost and get some more ponies out of it.

I have a buddy with a focus st and he is always bragging about it. My goal is to whip his ass lol
Power = Air flow.

The more cool air you can get flowing through the engine the more horsepower you will get. When you turn up the boost, the stock internals can't cope with the pressure and heat. You will need to replace them with forged internals. While you have the engine apart, you can port and polish the head (for better air flow). But I wouldn't go that far until you have done everything you can outside of the engine first.
 

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Advice? If you want to mod. A tune with intake and an exhaust does wonders for this car. I was right there with my buddies stg 1 WRX with a tune and an intake from a roll.
 

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Now add the FMIC and DP and then pass him
 

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I was just keeping it easy and cost effective :p
 

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I was just keeping it easy and cost effective :p
I keep forgetting most people have to buy everything already done, for what someone would pay for the DP I did the DP and stainless exhaust all the way out including muffler and resonator tips. Now the FMIC well not so cost effective since I am now on intercooler #6 for testing to find one that will give me the results I want (adds up quick) the sad part is I found one that outperformed the Mishimoto by 14°F average overall in a smaller package with equal pressure drop.
 

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Bingo, the average Joe. If he can fab his own, great! You are not the average Joe :p Wow, nice find on the intercooler? What was the cost vs the Mishimoto?
 
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Bingo, the average Joe. If he can fab his own, great! You are not the average Joe :p Wow, nice find on the intercooler? What was the cost vs the Mishimoto?
You can find them on Ebay for $260 but this one from Treadstone for that price is so much better for less money. Even being thicker than I like it's efficiency was at 82% and would be better once it is behind a upgraded turbo. The best so far is at 93% but had a little more pressure drop than I will accept (this was a $60 IC from Speed Daddy).

TR6 Intercooler 400HP- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE
 
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Does the 1.6 cylinder head fit on a 2.0 block?If it does then the 1.6 exhaust manifold and turbo can be used?
 

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Does the 1.6 cylinder head fit on a 2.0 block?If it does then the 1.6 exhaust manifold and turbo can be used?
Even if it did fit I wouldn't use this head and turbo, they would be more of a restriction since the turbo is smaller and I would assume cams, intake, exhaust valves and ports would be smaller being tuned for the 1.6L.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Am I mistaken to say that a tune on my ecu would void my warranty? I can't afford to buy a spare or anything like that. A tune was the first thing that came to mind but it might have to wait 5 years.

As a matter of fact; what mods CAN you do that won't void either your bumper to bumper or your power train warranties?
 

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Am I mistaken to say that a tune on my ecu would void my warranty? I can't afford to buy a spare or anything like that. A tune was the first thing that came to mind but it might have to wait 5 years.

As a matter of fact; what mods CAN you do that won't void either your bumper to bumper or your power train warranties?
SRI or CAI, mid pipe and axle back, catch can that is basically it. Also depends on the Kia dealer and service dept. Some performance minded techs will look the other way if they know your mod has nothing to do with the warranty work done and other dealers are just looking for an excuse not to cover you anymore.

Lucky for me my dealer offered a lifetime warranty on the drivetrain and it doesn't state anything about modifications or changes voiding warranty. So when I popped the engine it was a $100 deductible for a complete new engine.
 

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So I feel like our motor is kinda small... I was wondering if anyone knew what it would take to bore this thing out .20 over. Maybe we could get more potential that way.

You know what they say "There's no replacement for displacement. "
Boring the cilinders is not a good idea...it weakens the cilinder walls..
 

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As a matter of fact; what mods CAN you do that won't void either your bumper to bumper or your power train warranties?


Under normal circumstances, none! I have seen warranties denied/voided because the customer put different sized tires on the car. Not rims, just different sized tires.
But as Play said, it all depends on your service writer/manager. Some are cool, and some are looking for a reason not to work on a youngsters car. I have found that just by asking nonchalant questions, like "Hey, I was thinking about putting a K & N filter on my car to get better fuel economy, would that void my warranty?" is a good way to get a feel for how they are when it comes to mods. Some might say it will void your warranty right away and others might pull out a catalog and start recommending colors lol. I have always been a DIYer for most of my cars, so I haven't really had many issues with warranty work(but I have worked in several dealerships). I've literally picked cars up from the dealership brand new and drove them right over to the shop and started tearing shit apart ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I noticed in the picture posted above that boring was a poor idea
 

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There is a law that says the burden of proof lies on the dealer performing the repair to prove that the aftermarket part in question caused the malfunction of the car that is in for repair.
Example, you have an intake and cat-back exhaust installed. One of your transmission cables for the shifter snaps and needs to be replaced. They can't deny that repair because the intake and exhaust have nothing to do with the part.

Now with a tune, that effects the way the car drives and how much power it makes. So the dealer can blame your tune for things like engine mis-fires, running rough, extra smoke, blown engine altogether, etc. They will be especially hostile if you don't let them know it's tuned beforehand and they just find it on their own.

It's better to be upfront with the service manager about what you plan to do and get on a good note with them because it will only make it easier for you later if anything does happen. Some dealers are more lenient than others when it comes to that stuff.

TL;DR - dealer can't deny repair for something that your aftermarket parts don't effect. - Google Magnuson-Morrison Warranty Act
 

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Now if you had a lawyer on your side that can beat down the dealers BS with voiding your warranty by making them prove the mod is what caused the problem (there is a law that says they need to prove the cause before they can void any warranty). Magnuson-Moss Act

From experience with another dealership all it took was a call from one lawyer and they immediately changed the story and said it would be covered. This was a GMC dealer blaming a broken intake valve keeper on a K&N air filter and they didn't want to pay for a new long block in a truck with 1200 miles.
 
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