[Trocko]

Hey guys.

I am looking into getting hids for my lows and fogs, but am wondering about hids for my highs as well.

Is this recommended? I have had hids before. And know that it takes a while for them to "warm up" which I wouldn't really want for my high beams, but in Canada we have to have drls, and the yellow shit glow just ruins the look of the car.

Has hid tech progressed enough to warm up faster?

I am looking at the mirimoto kit from k5,


Thanks!

 

[mr_sippi_forte]

Honestly, I wouldn't do it. Not unless you're super-remote. My HID lows take about 10 seconds to really warm up to their full brightness.

I'd just stick the brightest halogen bulbs (something like Sylvania silverstar bulbs) in the highs that I could find. Also, I don't know much about LED tech, but maybe you could look into that?

 

[honhon]

i'd probably skip on HID's in the highs.... even OEM cars with factory HID dont have HID in the highs... the highs are just there to add a little more "spot" like and to aide the lows, hense the reason your fogs turn off and your lows stay on

 

[Trocko]

ahh okay, that makes sense.

Yeah, I would like something brighter, just because my high beams are my DRL's..... and look so awful.

I am fairly remote, but still probably not worth it.

Thanks for your input!

 

[PLP]

For anyone installing HID and drilling their dust caps... get an OEM replacement when you go to service your car:
Genuine Head Light Dust Cap 2pcs 921403x000 for Hyundai Elantra 2014 2016 | eBay

that's the cheapest I found. OEM. Pair.


And a question.
Do I must remove the bumper cover to get the headlights out?

 

[Trocko]

Thanks!

I drilled the holes, and just ordered these. I also put the stock bulbs in my glove compartment just in case.... As much as it was a pain to get those HID's to seat, it would be worse to be driving at night with nothing.

I didn't remove the bumper or lights. I did it with them in place. That being said, it took me around 2 hours to install everything. at least 1 hour and 45 mins was spent cursing at the drivers side light. The passenger side is stupid easy, it has lots of wiggle room. The drivers side is blocked by the fuse box.

But if you DO want to take the headlights out, you must remove the bumper. Something I was not willing to do.

 

[Trocko]

I guess I should clarify too, I bought the Mirimoto 5500k light kit from k5 optima.

I must say, the lights aren't as blue as I thought they would be. I thought they would match my LED's more, but they don't. Maybe my ground isn't as good as it should be?

That said, the kit is awesome. Great quality. Much better than the 50$ kits off ebay.

 

[PLP]

Stupid design. Bumper must come off... I will not go for it.


Ground makes no difference. You get negative from power supply.
Did you get 55 W or 35 W?

5500 K is blue enough. I had 6000 K at some point after suggestions that they are crispier than 4300 K. Wrong. I hated seeing green street signs. They really had bluish tint and resulted in yellow lines having green hue, while signs appear rather into green than yellow.
Now, I go for 4300 K only. I do not care how blue they seem to be. Light is white and strong. HID were optimised at 4300 K temperature with the highest intensity. Anything higher than that (5000 K and above) will put down less light with 8000 K being so blue and having almost same light output as halogen.

HID lamps wear in such way that light drifts into higher temperatures, and depending of manufacturer, 4300 K may become 5000 K in matter of a few months. When they are close to end life, they get even further.

 

[staax]

I too ran 6000k on my Mazda but if I buy HIDs for this I'll go lower, 6000k was a little too blue for me.

I was considering 5000k, but after that note I just may go 4300k.

From what I've seen and heard though the bumper isn't all that difficult to remove, still a bit of a pain I guess.

 

[Trocko]

Stupid design. Bumper must come off... I will not go for it.


Ground makes no difference. You get negative from power supply.
Did you get 55 W or 35 W?

5500 K is blue enough. I had 6000 K at some point after suggestions that they are crispier than 4300 K. Wrong. I hated seeing green street signs. They really had bluish tint and resulted in yellow lines having green hue, while signs appear rather into green than yellow.
Now, I go for 4300 K only. I do not care how blue they seem to be. Light is white and strong. HID were optimised at 4300 K temperature with the highest intensity. Anything higher than that (5000 K and above) will put down less light with 8000 K being so blue and having almost same light output as halogen.

HID lamps wear in such way that light drifts into higher temperatures, and depending of manufacturer, 4300 K may become 5000 K in matter of a few months. When they are close to end life, they get even further.

You don't NEED to take the bumper off, it would just be easier that way, but it is totally doable with the bumper on.
35w kit. They are pretty yellow. I was hoping they would match the LED's. Honestly would rather a colour aligned car lol. OCD

Well, I hope they will drift soon

 

[Trocko]

Anyone have HID's in their fog lights?

I am curious as to how it would be hooked up...

 

[PLP]

Anyone have HID's in their fog lights?

I am curious as to how it would be hooked up...

Don't, just don't.

Fogs and HID is not a good combination.

 

[[email protected]]

Like others have said I wouldn't recommend putting HIDs for the highs .

Gina

 

[honhon]

they dont make H11B HID bulbs

 

[PLP]

they dont make H11B HID bulbs

kind of...

H11b is nothing more but plain H11 with different connector. For some reason, though, H11 rebased HID has the top electrode on the wrong side when in respect to the base when comparing to halogen filament supporting rod. This may cause issues with some projectors. It did in mine 2007 KIA Rondo.
TRS came up with two versions of H11 rebased HID. Basically 180 degrees rotation of the base in respect to the HID lamp and all is good. They called them H11A and H11B.

The problem you might have in fog, except the conversion being useless for driving purposes, is spacing. HID lamp might not fit into the base.

Better option for more light, which I do not recommend for fogs, is to do H9 conversion. H9 provides more lumen and is regular halogen.