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I think you would need to drill a hole for wiring to go through so I would guess you would need to remove the light.... you dont have a garage or a friend with a garage/shop at work to do the install in? I know when doing stuff to my car, its always nicer to work in a warm area so you can take your time and do a nice job, when its cold, your swearing and freezing your ass off and just want to slap things together to get it done....
 

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You don't have to remove the light
You just have to remove the cap on the back of the assembly that seals the projector
You drill a 7/8 hole through it with a hole saw
If your bulbs don't come with a grommet... Send them back
Watch the video I posted in my hid thread



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If you decide you want to remove the bumper or lights to hide ballast or anything, let me or kneegradamus know. he was a big help with explaining to me how to remove the bumper.
 

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I have my ballast secured to the bracket below the headlight
I have been using TRS HID kits for a long time and I have never had anything bad to say about them
Especially since they are the only company to make a correct h11/h11b bulb


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so no go on the hids....they wont fire and stay on...just light up for a sec and then out...im useing a ddm 55watt kit with the error canclers...same setup im running on my 11 ram with canbus..no issues there...any input? would a relay harness work? kinda pissed now lol...for the record the 35 watts were no different
 

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is polarity right on ballast? Try testing one direct to battery maybe? I've only ever had one hid kit and I installed it like 8 years ago but it was a cheap ebay kit. One side was wired for 9007 and other 9004 but also my car had one constant power and low and high beam were negative. I end up just rewiring the hid harness with a relay and had one wire on low beam for signal. But yeah double check polarity maybe? I'm sure someone else will chime in too.... I want to get hids for both my cars too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ill have to try them on the battery to make sure...but i couldnt get anywhere with it...have ddm hids in everything i own, truck bike skidoo womans car dads truck and no issues
 

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so no go on the hids....they wont fire and stay on...just light up for a sec and then out...im useing a ddm 55watt kit with the error canclers...same setup im running on my 11 ram with canbus..no issues there...any input? would a relay harness work? kinda pissed now lol...for the record the 35 watts were no different
Yea it's because you need a capacitor
Short and sweet
Send them back and get the TRS kit
You'll thank me




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I posted a thread on hid kits for this exact reason. I didn't want people buying kits that won't work
Read my thread and watch the video

Newer cars nowadays are either can controlled or pulse width modulated
You need a capacitor to smooth that out

My thread will state you can go with a can module but I have not fully updated the info on it. In the end like I've stated now a few times a capacitor will do


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I just want to see this hole that people are drilling lol.. I can see it working on the veloster dust cap that has no "vanes" but the dust cap on my car has these "vanes" im assuming for grip that the hole would have to be inbetween
 

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There nothing wrong with buying a cheaper kit
But this falls in the category you get what you pay for
Quality kits come with braided hid wire shrouding/a grommet on the bulb harness/a relay harness/mounting accessories for the ballasts and a choice of capacitor/can ballast/etc..
This applies to most newer vehicles
My 07 civic ran ddm tuning hid for 3 years
Basic 35w ballast and 5k bulbs no problem
Ever car after that I've owned I've had to spend more money for a kit that will work correctly on my car
Plus you have to take into consideration that we have projector lens, which comes with a sealed housing either by rubber or plastic on the back for bulb access. Unlike most halogens that the bulb is exterior on the housing and the bulbs actually seals the housing itself
That being said this is when A higher end kit and it a kit that is made with a grommet on the harness is necessary to keep moisture out


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I can take pics
But my opinion go wit 5k
Very very crisp bright white
6k will have a tinge of blue and in my experience it really looks like shit on the road
With a low end projector like ours
Take some time and research kelvin ratings/lumens and also look up some info on projectors. Some projectors are in a tier that make them really expensive. There cut of is extremely crisp and the width of the beam is extraordinary.
I could ramble on and on but it would be pointless. A solid 30 mins of research and you will fully understand what's best for our scenario
Either way, end of story is go with 5K you will thank me. If your still having an issue deciding. Send me your card info I'll make the payment for you. Lollolol


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looks good, i like the install, looks clean
 
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