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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking to improve lighting in my SX. The current headlight/fog lights has a yellowish color compared to the LED. I'm looking for straight plug and play with no modification. Thanks in advance for suggestions.
 

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You will hear three stories.

1 - keep halogen, but modify H9 that gives more light for a shorter life span. Also, as option - get higher end H11s (like SilverStar).
2 - do HID. While it is good for low beam, it is pointless for fogs or high beam, unless you run high beam for long times. Stick close to 4300 K for high light intensity. Halogen is about 2700 K for standard to 3500 K for "white".
3 - do LED. While this mod is "cool", I personally disagree. No aftermarket LED provides good, not even remotely close to HID or OEM halogen, light distribution. Pay attention to words - light distribution. Intensity may be fine in some spots, colour - that is personal perception. But they do not spread the light as it supposed to. Some even mess up the cut off.


So it is up to you.

Each mod requires some changes except swapping to high end, high cost H11. H9 on the other hand, has very limited changes.
HID/LED - add extra wires, capacitors (cancellers), drilling the headlight cover, and so on.
 

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try out the headlight bulbs in my sig they match the oem led lighting
 
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I went the 65 watt H9 route. Very easy to modify and install the H9's. Very good light output from H9 bulbs in these housings.
 

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try out the headlight bulbs in my sig they match the oem led lighting
I went the 65 watt H9 route. Very easy to modify and install the H9's. Very good light output from H9 bulbs in these housings.
With a digital camera (cell phones overload) why don't the two of you pull your Kia's up to a garage or wall and post a few photos of your bulb and headlight upgrades.
I think the headlights are fine OEM as is, but I can imagine other parts of the country where lighting demands are different.
 

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Here's a video, not mine but this is similar to the results I got.

 

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Here's a video, not mine but this is similar to the results I got.

Are the H9's direct replacement for OEM? Anything illegal or "ricer" about the H9's. There's a few sections of Northern California, going near the coast, that are PITCH BLACK at night - so some lighting upgrades are worth considering.
 

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If you're looking for an HID upgrade I would go with the Morimoto conversion kit, it is plug and play other than needing to drill holes in the dust caps (all HID kits require this). As stated above I would only do low beams as running an HID set up on high beams is not practical due to the nature of an HID bulb and it's need to warm-up. I'd also recommend going with the 5500k output for the best looking light and good output of light.

Let me know if you have any questions

https://www.k5optimastore.com/products/trs-hid-kits
 

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The H9's are just brighter halogen bulbs, there's no change in the color of the light that I can see. It's like having your high beams on that are brighter but they're aimed down on the road and not blinding oncoming drivers. Here's a video, again not mine, that shows whats needed to mod the H9's to work in place of the H11's.
 

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Are the H9's direct replacement for OEM? Anything illegal
Let's face it.
Any change to non-OEM size light bulb is illegal.
So putting HID, LED, or even H9 for that matter is illegal.

H9 is the hardest to prove and the hardest to notice for a police officer.
HID - many cars get HIDs, including Forte. However, the way they are connected to the headlight is way different, so it is easy to discover.
Same for LED, which is even easier to spot due to their look and light distribution.

So your choice...


And of course, if you go with 8000 K HID - you are just asking to be pulled over and get the car towed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the responses. Based on cost and level of effort I'm going with the H9 mod. I'll hold onto my stock H11 in the event the H9 fails. Having a headlight fail with a HID or LED would be problematic if I'm modding the dust cover.
 

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Thanks for all the responses. Based on cost and level of effort I'm going with the H9 mod. I'll hold onto my stock H11 in the event the H9 fails. Having a headlight fail with a HID or LED would be problematic if I'm modding the dust cover.
No mods at all with LED's and all NEWER ones have NO light distribution problems, the technology caught up very quickly there... Anyone who claims otherwise simply doesn't know how the latest ones are, period, and that's OK, not everyone can know everything when these things change so quickly... Trust me I got a 2017 model H11 off eBay for $40 ($80 on Amazon for some reason) and they work well... The only issue is some just aren't bright enough despite what they "claim" for wattage/lumens, so look for "90w" (45w each bulb) or higher... I got the ECCPP ones and they look great with good light distribution, and are brighter than other ones I paid more for and returned.

Also, they are truly plug and play with the fan and controller all built in and CAN all be stuffed into the rear housing area behind the bulb, but keep in mind that the bulb itself seals when twisted in so there is no reason to worry about the rear dust covers, I leave them off and let the controller hang out for better cooling for it and the bulb itself, which is important with LED... Hope that helps!
 

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You will hear three stories.

1 - keep halogen, but modify H9 that gives more light for a shorter life span. Also, as option - get higher end H11s (like SilverStar).
2 - do HID. While it is good for low beam, it is pointless for fogs or high beam, unless you run high beam for long times. Stick close to 4300 K for high light intensity. Halogen is about 2700 K for standard to 3500 K for "white".
3 - do LED. While this mod is "cool", I personally disagree. No aftermarket LED provides good, not even remotely close to HID or OEM halogen, light distribution. Pay attention to words - light distribution. Intensity may be fine in some spots, colour - that is personal perception. But they do not spread the light as it supposed to. Some even mess up the cut off.


So it is up to you.

Each mod requires some changes except swapping to high end, high cost H11. H9 on the other hand, has very limited changes.
HID/LED - add extra wires, capacitors (cancellers), drilling the headlight cover, and so on.
Just not true about LED light distribution any longer, all the newer ones are good now... Also, no mods required at all, especially with the bulb sealing when it's twisted in you are better off leaving the "dust cover" off and letting the extra length of cord/driver hang out for better cooling... I would agree that HID are better but for the money and convenience you just can't beat LED now, you just have to find ones that are bright enough despite what claimed lumens/wattage is.
 

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With a digital camera (cell phones overload) why don't the two of you pull your Kia's up to a garage or wall and post a few photos of your bulb and headlight upgrades.
I think the headlights are fine OEM as is, but I can imagine other parts of the country where lighting demands are different.
The factory headlights are just disgusting looking... sure they "work" fine, but are a complete and utter clash with the rest of the car's LED accents, etc, and with LED's so cheap and good now (they REALLY improved quickly) it was the very first mod I did and very glad I did!
 

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If you're looking for an HID upgrade I would go with the Morimoto conversion kit, it is plug and play other than needing to drill holes in the dust caps (all HID kits require this). As stated above I would only do low beams as running an HID set up on high beams is not practical due to the nature of an HID bulb and it's need to warm-up. I'd also recommend going with the 5500k output for the best looking light and good output of light.

Let me know if you have any questions

https://www.k5optimastore.com/products/trs-hid-kits
I don't see the need for any dust cap when the bulbs seal directly in place, but for high beams anyone could just go with an LED set: they are cheap, latest ones have no distribution probs and are instant on...
 

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Just not true about LED light distribution any longer, all the newer ones are good now...
Please, prove me wrong.
It is all about the way they are designed. Headlight needs a filament (or call it a source of light) that is positioned in the very place. Even 1 mm movement will make a huge impact. So, if the headlight was designed for halogen, only halogen, and some well aimed HID will make it work. Anything else, such as LED chips separated by 6 mm heatsink plate will not work. Not only there is a gap from the heatsink where the filament should be, but also the LED chips have only 120 degrees light spread. That makes 240 degrees coverage. Out of 360... Add 3rd one, one can say, and you get 360, but then your source of light is completely out of sync with your projector. Hence poor light distribution.

I did a post about, I tested it myself, and until you get me a good proof, you will not convince me.

You can talk about crisp light (it has nothing to do with light distribution), cutoff (that is driven by a shield so even with a flashlight inside projector you can get nice shade), efficiency of LEDs... but in the end, OEM halogen will provide better luminescence than 8000 lm LED kit (which is a lie, no LED for this little power can get even 2000 lm, I mean true 2000 lm).

I am sorry, but that's what it is.
 

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What you say refrence replacement head lamps is true.

I have mounted a pair of exterior mounted lights made by RIGID industries. These are in the SRQ line. They produce so much heat they have to be mounted exterior. They have what amounts to telescopic magnifying lenses. The ones I use are:

Hyperspot: It amounts to an aircraft landing light. 1000 ft beam, so I dont out accelerate my headlights. YES they are illegal, who cares, so is going 150 mph.

Driving : As mentioned above the way light is distributed is very important 3,096 lumens. The more important measure of light effectiveness is its ability to cast 1 lux of light at a given distance and pattern. Driving casts a wider, hyperspot is just what it sounds like.

I did exhausting research. RIGID industries kicks everybodys ass. Made in the good ole USA.

Check out these light patterns. Remeber these abilities are using less than 2 amps !!!

http://www.rigidindustries.com/sites/default/files/catalog/37.pdf

These light are tiny powerpacked. Here is a capabilities chart, enjoy.
http://www.rigidindustries.com/sites/default/files/catalog/36.pdf
 

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Please, prove me wrong.
It is all about the way they are designed. Headlight needs a filament (or call it a source of light) that is positioned in the very place. Even 1 mm movement will make a huge impact. So, if the headlight was designed for halogen, only halogen, and some well aimed HID will make it work. Anything else, such as LED chips separated by 6 mm heatsink plate will not work. Not only there is a gap from the heatsink where the filament should be, but also the LED chips have only 120 degrees light spread. That makes 240 degrees coverage. Out of 360... Add 3rd one, one can say, and you get 360, but then your source of light is completely out of sync with your projector. Hence poor light distribution.

I did a post about, I tested it myself, and until you get me a good proof, you will not convince me.

You can talk about crisp light (it has nothing to do with light distribution), cutoff (that is driven by a shield so even with a flashlight inside projector you can get nice shade), efficiency of LEDs... but in the end, OEM halogen will provide better luminescence than 8000 lm LED kit (which is a lie, no LED for this little power can get even 2000 lm, I mean true 2000 lm).

I am sorry, but that's what it is.
You don't have to be sorry, but I know what I have, how many different sets did you try? They vary wildly, I tried 3 and you have to get the ones with the wide metal tip and not the ones with the built in projector since we obviously have one already... and they always have multiple chips, not just a single...

Anyway, especially with the cutoff that cuts off almost a full 180 degrees, you get plenty of light down the road, the "gap" you mention is above the cut-off line and the built in projector lenses put the light down the road just fine, in fact, I saw NO difference in how much light there was in the area that's not cut off compared to the halogens.They are absolutely a VERY viable option, but again I'll admit that the claimed lumens/wattage is off, I'd buy some with very high ratings to be safe/bright enough. I'm not talking about "8000 lumen" kit, I'm talking the ones higher, 9600, 12000, etc and you need to go for those bigger figures, as they are at least proportionally fake numbers, lol.

They seriously don't deserve to be made out to be so bad, it's just not fair or accurate to rip on them like you do. I'm very happy with mine, very glad I don't have the puke brown halogens anymore that threw off the whole vibe of even having a modern sporty car. OP should know they are definitely a decent option, I DO recommend looking for DOT approved, "New 2017 model", and 9600+ claimed lumens. Also order off Amazon so you can always return for free for "Not meeting stated specs" if they claim a certain brightness and then you don't like them.

So there, OP deserves another opinion of someone who tried a few sets and can safely say they work great.
 

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Just want to add a bit here, led used to not be an option due to not lumens but light dispersement. I don't know if this has changed but the tech did move along very fast.

For lights are not made to help you see further. They are low to the ground to light up more road under fog but can actually reduce visibility at a distance due to more light bring closer cause your eyes to adjust to the higher brightness. Also 2700k is yellow and most halogens are around 3500.

The forte does come with HIDs and they suck. They are closer to 3500 than 4300 and are only about 2000 lumens. Its a 25 watt system with d8s bulbs.

For legality of modification and stuff, please do your research. Especially those of you in Cali. Things are not always as they seem ?
 

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You don't have to be sorry, but I know what I have, how many different sets did you try? They vary wildly, I tried 3 and you have to get the ones with the wide metal tip and not the ones with the built in projector since we obviously have one already... and they always have multiple chips, not just a single...
which one do you have?
link?


For legality of modification and stuff, please do your research. Especially those of you in Cali. Things are not always as they seem ?
No modification is legal. Even H9 technically is not. HID or LED - big fat no.

Even having OEM HID with D8S (I know, those are weak, I think Ford started as the first one with OEM HID that was 25 W), modding it to take D3S is not.
 
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