Ground point cleaning

20348 Views 31 Replies 13 Participants Last post by PLP, Oct 18, 2017

Forte5

Discussion Starter · Jan 5, 2016

So been reading the VT threads and they have pointed out that we have some crappy grounding points and saw what they did to fix that. So I figured this would be good to make a DIY on cleaning all the ground points. When I check mine where all the ground cables are at they put the ground cable right on top of the paint causing a really crappy ground.

So what I did was went to harbor freight and bought a 120* air angle grinder with the sanding disks. You can do this with a file or sand paper but it will take a little bit longer. Before I started I disconnected the battery and took it out so I would have more room and to prevent any sparks or any shorts. I then went around with a 10mm and 12mm socket and extensions to get to all of them and take them off. Once I had them off I went around with my angle grinder and sanded all the spots where they connected. I also took the sand paper and did each end of the cables.

Here are pics of the points. I took these after the fact so you don't see all the spots I sanded.

Driver side strut tower

Behind the ECU

Down by the transmission. This one goes to the transmission but couldn't get the pic where it connects

From the passenger side tower to the turbo J pipe

Here are a few shots of a spot cleaned and the grinder

I will be putting dielectric grease on them when I get to the auto store in the next few days. I have noticed with this faster starting and way better throttle response. I also noticed that the whole power band is smoother then before and my idle doesn't sound as rough. I am also doing extra ground wires because the stock ones are so tiny. I will be doing a DIY for those today hopefully

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2014RacingRedTurboKoup

· #2 · Jan 6, 2016

Gas Natural material Circle Symmetry Metal

Might help putting these between the body and the wire.

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staax

· #3 · Jan 6, 2016

Great observation and writeup! When mounting my catch can I moved the ground on the strut tower and was surprised with how poor it was. The paint gets in the way too much.

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Forte5

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jan 6, 2016

The paint is terrible to be under these points. There is a few guys on the VT side that said they were getting misfires and massive hesitation and when they did this to all the points it cleared the issues up.

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heinrich848

· #5 · Mar 1, 2016

Good work! I posted another topic about a big three upgrade. Do you think all these points you did are necessary for audio-only capacity? Surely, only high-current transfer points for the audio system would be adequate. I'm not too worried about engine performance, unless it would benefit the total electrical system.

Forte5

Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 2, 2016

It will help with the whole electrical system. Helps everything have a better ground to me

Prince_bigd

· #7 · Mar 4, 2016

After seeing your post I took a look at mine. Already had rust and buildup around my ground points. So pulled them all off and sanded them and the body points by hand. Later I'll get around to making or finding a big three kit.

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Forte5

Discussion Starter · #8 · Mar 4, 2016

Also make sure to put dialetric grease on all the points so they don't rust

drc69

· #9 · Mar 4, 2016

Nice write-up with good info. Easy to do and I see can / will make a different.
I'll put this on the list of things to do. lol
Thx

Trocko

· #10 · Mar 9, 2016

I just did this today, But I missed the spot behind the ECU.... I did the battery to drivers side, and the passenger side.

Idle is not BUTTER smooth, and throttle response is MUCH better. Like significantly better. I drove it before, and drove it after, and it almost feels like a normal car again. The throttle seemed lazy before, but now it revs when I tap it.

Nice write up and thank you. Next time I'm out, ill clean the ECU one

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Forte5

Discussion Starter · #11 · Mar 9, 2016

Did you do the passenger side that runs from the strut tower to the turbo inlet pipe? Also there are grounds that I forgot in the drivers side fender well where the CAI filter sits.

Trocko

· #12 · Mar 9, 2016

I am pretty sure that I did.

I figure when It gets warmer out, and when I am putting in my SRI, and res delete pipe, Ill just look for grounds and clean them as I see them.

Its stupid though, like, all that is grounding it is the threads of the bolt. How hard could it be to remove the paint and alleviate the whole situation?

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Forte5

Discussion Starter · #13 · Mar 11, 2016

Trocko said:
I am pretty sure that I did.

I figure when It gets warmer out, and when I am putting in my SRI, and res delete pipe, Ill just look for grounds and clean them as I see them.

Its stupid though, like, all that is grounding it is the threads of the bolt. How hard could it be to remove the paint and alleviate the whole situation?

Exactly! When I did mine I was amazed at how nice and calm my car idled and how smooth the power felt then. Also my sub amp doesn't cut out anymore!

shagger

· #14 · Mar 11, 2016

Has anyone just tried to put dielectric grease on the grounding point bolts?

Is there a empirical test that can be run before and after that can offer proof vs, 'it feels better'? A Torque app PID on amperage perhaps? I'm not discounting anyone's results, but if I can see proof positive, I'd be much more willing to grind off some paint!

staax

· #15 · Mar 11, 2016

Have you seen the ground points on your car yet?

I was amazed I had a ground at all after seeing all the paint on the contact surface and threads for the bolt.

Putting dielectric grease there without cleaning the paint off won't do a thing.

shagger

· #16 · Mar 11, 2016

staax said:
Have you seen the ground points on your car yet?
I was amazed I had a ground at all after seeing all the paint on the contact surface and threads for the bolt.
Putting dielectric grease there without cleaning the paint off won't do a thing.

No, I have looked at them. There isn't much of a contact point, just the bolt threads where the paints been rubbed off. I'd just love some hard evidence of improvement before I break out the angle grinder is all...

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schizorazgriz

· #17 · Mar 11, 2016

shagger said:
No, I have looked at them. There isn't much of a contact point, just the bolt threads where the paints been rubbed off. I'd just love some hard evidence of improvement before I break out the angle grinder is all...

Not to mention, you are also modifying the stock wiring system at that point and the dealer loves to stick it to you for shit like that even though you are helping...

staax

· #18 · Mar 12, 2016

Angle grinder would be a little excessive Lol... I would use a dremel, rotary tool, or just sand paper... The contact points aren't very big.

And schiz, they'd have no idea you cleaned the contact points at all unless you took golf ball sized amount of the paint anyway. And I can't consider cleaning them a modification anyway.

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schizorazgriz

· #19 · Mar 12, 2016

staax said:
Angle grinder would be a little excessive Lol... I would use a dremel, rotary tool, or just sand paper... The contact points aren't very big.

And schiz, they'd have no idea you cleaned the contact points at all unless you took golf ball sized amount of the paint anyway. And I can't consider cleaning them a modification anyway.

You just never know. That's all.

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shagger

· #20 · Mar 13, 2016

staax said:
Angle grinder would be a little excessive Lol... I would use a dremel, rotary tool, or just sand paper... The contact points aren't very big.

And schiz, they'd have no idea you cleaned the contact points at all unless you took golf ball sized amount of the paint anyway. And I can't consider cleaning them a modification anyway.

My plan would be to outline the metal piece with a sharpie, then mask off the stuff not under the metal contact point, then sand away. Keep the exposed metal not covered by the metal piece to a minimum.

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