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Did you check what it told you to? There was/is a recall for my Sportage regarding the Brake switch failing, and about 2 years ago, mine did fail. I simply unplugged the switch and put a paperclip in it(jumped the switch) to get me by for a week until the dealer could see me. Remember, if it fails, and you have the push button start, you can always bypass the brake pedal all together to get it started by holding the button in on the second push(run position) for about 10 seconds and it will start without pushing the brake pedal. It's somewhere in the owners manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I tried that, fuse was fine, but there's something else up too because only the left blinkers worked and right rear leds
 

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They are trying to blame my HIDs, the cause was the giant fuse on in the fuse block was blown
 

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They are trying to blame my HIDs, the cause was the giant fuse on in the fuse block was blown


I'm assuming you have aftermarket HIDs? And are they somehow wired into the main fuse block where the fuse was blown? My guess is no, because every aftermarket HID kit I have ever had was plug and play with the OEM headlight plugs. But here again, I haven't messed with aftermarket HIDs in many years. Either way, HID lights generally draw less current than regular halogen lights so I couldn't see it blowing a fuse. But if they are a cheaper HID kit, then who knows, something could have shorted out in the ballast. You really never know what kind of quality you are getting. That's why if I were to buy an HID kit, it would be something high quality like a Philips kit.
 

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They are trying to blame my HIDs, the cause was the giant fuse on in the fuse block was blown
Did the canbus harness they came with have the relays that needed to be hard wired? A friend of mine has a dodge truck and tried installing a cheap set with the canbus kit with relays and burned out his whole system and now has no lights and will cost $1800 to fix. All I said was hey but you saved $100 on the HID kit (we had multiple discussions on what he should get and he went on Ebay and got the $27 kit) If you pay less than $150 on HIDs you should expect issues sooner or later.

I should add after doing much research for the under $200 kits Mirimoto Elites are the #1 choice, there are better out there but they will range from $250-600 which is a little out of the budget building range lol
 
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Wouldnt they blow the headlight fuse before blowing the giant one though?
Plug and Play kit would or should only affect the fuse protecting the headlights but if it came with the relays that need to be wired to a power source it could bypass the headlight circuit and only use it for a signal wire for the relay. Really all depends on the setup.

We actually do not have a separate fuse for headlamps by themselves.
 

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If you pay less than $150 on HIDs you should expect issues sooner or later.
That's pretty much my point. I've been looking for a decent kit for the Sportage for 4 years now. Those guys on Ebay will promise me they have a kit and it will work with the stupid H11b bulb, but as soon as I get on the phone with someone that sells quality HIDs, they say they don't have a plug and play kit yet.


Wouldnt they blow the headlight fuse before blowing the giant one though?
Being uninformed about the cheap kits they sell these days along with the newer cars needing canbus with relays wired directly to the fuse block or the battery, I honestly have no idea. Your first post saying the left blinkers worked and the right rear leds still worked left me sort of puzzled to begin with. I would think both would be on their own fuses. LEDs in general are a different breed than the old halogen lights, so perhaps there is also a small circuit that controls the lights. At the end of the day, the dealer will try to blame you for the error, in an attempt to get out of covering things under warranty, but in this case, they may be right. Did they just replace the fuse and send you on your way, or did they unhook the HIDs and then replace the fuse. Reason I ask, is I'm curious if your HIDs still work.
 

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Sylvania makes a Halogen bulb that mimics the look of HID headlights. They are called SilverStar zXe. The low beam set costs around $60, and the high beam set cost me $40. They are a direct bulb replacement, so they are the easy to change out. They are super bright, and they are also a nice bright white color. The only draw back is that they don't have a very long life compared to normal headlights because they burn much brighter than normal headlights. Sylvania does guarantees them for a year, so you won't be having to buy new headlights every other month.
 

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That's pretty much my point. I've been looking for a decent kit for the Sportage for 4 years now. Those guys on Ebay will promise me they have a kit and it will work with the stupid H11b bulb, but as soon as I get on the phone with someone that sells quality HIDs, they say they don't have a plug and play kit yet.
The kit I installed is plug n play and has no relays to deal with. The only thing that was needed to be done was the hole in the dust cap and mounting the module. When first hooked up the passenger side flickered and drivers was good so I purchased a set of LEDs that didn't fit inside but the passenger side didn't work so after a little probing and testing I found polarity was backwards. After repinning the the plug I hooked the HIDs back up and the flicker was gone. The Mirimoto Elite with the canbus harness works perfectly. From what I can tell we don't actually have a canbus setup, people have just been using the relay packs to stop the flickering on the passenger side light. Next time I have the bumper off I will remove the canbus inline harness and see how it works running just the modules.
 

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The kit I installed is plug n play and has no relays to deal with. The only thing that was needed to be done was the hole in the dust cap and mounting the module. When first hooked up the passenger side flickered and drivers was good so I purchased a set of LEDs that didn't fit inside but the passenger side didn't work so after a little probing and testing I found polarity was backwards. After repinning the the plug I hooked the HIDs back up and the flicker was gone. The Mirimoto Elite with the canbus harness works perfectly. From what I can tell we don't actually have a canbus setup, people have just been using the relay packs to stop the flickering on the passenger side light. Next time I have the bumper off I will remove the canbus inline harness and see how it works running just the modules.

So the non-HID forte's have that stupid h11b bulb as well, and you have a decent plug and play kit for it? By all means, send me a link to purchase. I've been running the best Silverstars available since I bought the damn thing, but it's still not true HID.
 

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Only worthy kit is the Low beam kit from TRS (the retrofit source)
They are the only company to have the correct ground positioning on the bulb which will prevent you from having any shadows
You will also need a set of capacitor links to prevent flickering since the system is PWM

Full kit w/ relay harness will run you roughly 180$

For best output performance go with the 5500k xb35 bulbs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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So the non-HID forte's have that stupid h11b bulb as well, and you have a decent plug and play kit for it? By all means, send me a link to purchase. I've been running the best Silverstars available since I bought the damn thing, but it's still not true HID.
Low beam is a H11 and Fog is the H11B (halogen). The ground going to the tip of the HID bulb is opposite on the H11 and H11B giving a slight shadow (I haven't seen it yet but Optima owners always complained about it). This is the kit I am running and I got the H11 5500 35 watt with the canbus harness. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-h11.html#.VW99r89VhBc They do offer the anti-flicker link for $15 for those that are worried but having the right polarity makes a huge difference.

Another tip is not to put the grommet in the center of the dust cap, that is where the bulb is located and puts a lot of wires in one location along with the connector on the bulb.

FYI, the kits sold at TRS are the Mishimoto Elite kit I have in my car
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The fuse will be in today, I have plug and play canbus things, so all run inline like stock. I was going to take HIDs out, but.... I want to leave them in. If it blows again and they tell me it's them for sure I'll take them out. I've had HIDs for 3500 miles and no prob... Then the blinkers and leds problem... I wonder if it was a weak fuse to begin with...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, idk if it does or doesn't have canbus but the polarity thing... If it was backwards mine wouldn't work. Only way I stopped the flicker was with inline canbus boxes
 
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