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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My new Forte with only two thousand miles at the rallycross.

This was an SCCA event in Macon, GA where i drove 175 miles from Savannah and drove back home. I raced in the "Stock, Front wheel drive class" which is what the letters i have taped on the side of the car representing where i placed 1st and got the second fasted run of the day among all other classes, being beaten only by a Modified VW MKII Golf.


Overall i was extremely impressed with how the Kia performed, Wherein i got compliments from observers and competitors say things like, "Well, you've definitely changed my opinion on Kia's" and, "We did not expect to see That today."

Here is another video from my GF ontop of a little dirt mound.


I may start performing upgrades to actually compete regularly, but i will start with a set of snow tires on another set of wheels and see where that leads, as just tires will keep me in the Stock category.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey thanks, yeah it was a bunch of fun. Truthfully i think the biggest setback was tires. I'm still on the tires that came with the car, so next to no offroad capabilities lol. A little more suspension travel is probably needed if i plan on being serious in the offroad world.

On the small tracks like autocross and rallycross, out little 1.6t's are peppy enough until you really learn to drive. Of course and extra 20-50hp would be a great improvement.

My only true complaint is that being an automatic the car will shift up on its own when around 6k, even when you are in M mode. I would honestly pay someone good money if someone could find out how to block that portion of the software.
 

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I do not know... 2000 miles only and pushing it this hard? Well, a bit rough IMO. A bit too early.


Hey thanks, yeah it was a bunch of fun. Truthfully i think the biggest setback was tires.
That's what I thought right away seeing you taking off the start line.
I would see some 16". Probably 205/60x16 with some more aggressive thread. I wonder if winter tires wouldn't be good here.
More cushion (high profile) to allow the rubber to adapt to the terrain providing grip. 225/40 is very stiff.... so it does not help at all. Unless running them at 25-28 PSI, but this could cause some issues on tight turns.

My only true complaint is that being an automatic the car will shift up on its own when around 6k, even when you are in M mode. I would honestly pay someone good money if someone could find out how to block that portion of the software.
I think tune would take care of it. You can get "zero" tune that may address it.
 

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Hey thanks, yeah it was a bunch of fun. Truthfully i think the biggest setback was tires. I'm still on the tires that came with the car, so next to no offroad capabilities lol. A little more suspension travel is probably needed if i plan on being serious in the offroad world.

On the small tracks like autocross and rallycross, out little 1.6t's are peppy enough until you really learn to drive. Of course and extra 20-50hp would be a great improvement.

My only true complaint is that being an automatic the car will shift up on its own when around 6k, even when you are in M mode. I would honestly pay someone good money if someone could find out how to block that portion of the software.
Tires are a huge factory in this type of situation! I dont even know what rally tires are running for these days... Maybe look into a completely new set of wheels and tires. Would hate to see you do a course and accidentally bend a wheel and be SOL. My buddy autocrosses his turbo'd miata and some of the video footage i see of him racing makes me want to cringe at some of the terrain he drives on (very uneven)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rally tires are quite expensive. I do want another set of wheels and tires just for this. Everyone was telling me i can get a cheap set of snow tires and i'll stay in the stock class. If i put rally tires on i'll be moved to 'Modified' and against much more stiff competition.

Lol why bother taking 5,000 miles to break an engine in when you can do it in 500 :p

I've already had the sxthelement cold air intake and custom tune before 1,000 miles. The car will be fine. And might i add, what sxthelement can do with your car with just a tune is unreal.. He spent 15 minutes on my tune, kept all the drivability of stock and the seat of the pants dyno approves!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In the video i was back to stock everything because i had to take the car back for an obstruction in the fuel lines. I wasnt sure what would be said about the mods, so i just reverted it back to stock for the repair.
 

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In regards to break in, piston rings in engines made within the past 10-15 years will seat/seal within the first 100-200 miles depending on the load applied.

The wiki article on this is actually written well and I don't see any mis-information in it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Break-in_(mechanical_run-in)

As for a turbocharger, it's going to be in its most prime condition when it's brand new. As it ages and is used, performance will steadily decline as the parts are heated/cooled and worn from operation.
 

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In regards to break in, piston rings in engines made within the past 10-15 years will seat/seal within the first 100-200 miles depending on the load applied.

The wiki article on this is actually written well and I don't see any mis-information in it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Break-in_(mechanical_run-in)

As for a turbocharger, it's going to be in its most prime condition when it's brand new. As it ages and is used, performance will steadily decline as the parts are heated/cooled and worn from operation.
While I agree, in most part, with the article, there are two separate processes: initial break-in (just after assembly) and long term break-in.
Initial is done in the factory - to get the rings seated, make sure everything works fine. That is the time when the engine gets WOT, but should be avoided during long term break-in.
The long term is the owner responsibility.

Now, for some reason different manufacturers spell out break-in period in different ways. This is the reason I am confused as to which procedure is the best. Some performance cars need much more than 500 miles break-ins... so where is the truth?


However, compressor (turbo) does not need any break-in. For sure not counted in miles. Maybe a few hours of heating process, but that should have been done in the factory already.
 

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I'm sorry dude, but that looked painful. I'm not a big WRC fan but I do play Dirt on the odd occasion and I just don't see FWD cars should have any business doing that especially on the dirt surface. That all said, I'm kind of perplexed at why not more AWD hatchbacks are being sold here in the North American market. When you see those rally events, they have names like Renault, Peugeot Ford, Hyundai, Skoda, etc. They all have wicked AWD systems adapted from every day run of the mill cars. It's a travesty that we can only buy the STI or now the Focus RS but at a cost that would make your eyes pop out of your socket. How about more affordable little pocket rockets.

Damn
 
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