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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I came across this ad from AliExpress. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/KlA...a713-45e0-8a90-dc8f0e1a9c2c&priceBeautifyAB=0

Looks like they come with the LED strip blinking from OEM. I am considering ordering this because I want to black out my headlights, add a second projector in place of the reflector, etc. This all takes time and I can only work on it sparingly so having a second set would be helpful. Was wondering if anyone is aware from another source (forte forums ) that knows this comes with blinking module from the factory because certainly the Forte USA/Canada market doesn't.

Saw this video ways back and came across it again. Good comparison on Xenon vs LED.

 

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Regarding LED vs HID in Porsche.
I spoke with guys on Macan forum and almost all of them said that LED headlight despite being brighter, performed worse.
There is something with the light that makes things look weird. Is it the colour, or some other factors, but they said HID will give you a better view.
Well, I cannot say anything myself, except PnP systems being not so good for LED.

Now, regarding what you want to do.

I am slowly pushing myself towards doing HID bi-xenon retrofit, while keeping OEM headlight look.
I would be planning on increasing intensity of the LED strip to use as a DRL with limited intensity for night driving.
Replacing the projector with bi-xenon on D2S.

As a donor - I would go with OEM headlight that can be obtained from eBay.
As for turn signal - can be done. Look into TRS and HIDplanet for solutions. You "just" need to replace all LED chips with switchbacks and get it wired to turn signal.

This might be my project as well, but it would require a good research to find the right LED chips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Regarding LED vs HID in Porsche.
I spoke with guys on Macan forum and almost all of them said that LED headlight despite being brighter, performed worse.
There is something with the light that makes things look weird. Is it the colour, or some other factors, but they said HID will give you a better view.
Well, I cannot say anything myself, except PnP systems being not so good for LED.

Now, regarding what you want to do.

I am slowly pushing myself towards doing HID bi-xenon retrofit, while keeping OEM headlight look.
I would be planning on increasing intensity of the LED strip to use as a DRL with limited intensity for night driving.
Replacing the projector with bi-xenon on D2S.

As a donor - I would go with OEM headlight that can be obtained from eBay.
As for turn signal - can be done. Look into TRS and HIDplanet for solutions. You "just" need to replace all LED chips with switchbacks and get it wired to turn signal.

This might be my project as well, but it would require a good research to find the right LED chips.
Your knowledge is clearly more in-depth than mine. I had always thought converting the bulbs, i.e incandescent to LED were plug and play without much thoughts into the switchbacks as a barrier. Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't some of the newer LED bulbs advertised as PnP now with onboard switchbacks to avoid the hyperlinking?

One of the areas that need addressing as far as lighting is the turn signals both front and back. When I view it from a reasonable distance, you can hardly see it unless the ambient surrounding is pitch dark; they are virtually nonexistent in the day time. The one mod I came across on ExLEDShop based in Korea is they have a conversion for the LED strip which functions as DRL and turn signals. It looks like a direct replacement LED assembly for the factory one with its own switchback. I take it the factory assembly is only one colour (white). That said, there has been other sources on eBay that also do this but not advertised as Forte/Cerato specific, just a generic fair. I imagine if you're going to open up the headlight housing and do some tinkering, this would be the cheaper route to take.

When I talk about these mods I can't help but get a little excited but then theory vs practice presents a new set of challenges. Ultimately my main goal is to get the headlights brighter, significantly brighter than stock. I find them very dim. My ideal approach going into this is more light output equals more illumination. Looking at the new Elantra I see they've gone all projectors and both projector in each headlight are activated at the same time. If we can somehow make it so that our low beams and high beams are activated with an aftermarket retrofit to projector, this can be achieved. If one wanted to get a little creative, they can even design their own little LED accent like how the newer Forte has the flower pedal design or Porsche's ice cube design, etc.
 

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Your knowledge is clearly more in-depth than mine. I had always thought converting the bulbs, i.e incandescent to LED were plug and play without much thoughts into the switchbacks as a barrier. Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't some of the newer LED bulbs advertised as PnP now with onboard switchbacks to avoid the hyperlinking?
As for my knowledge... it is still quite minimal as I learn everyday and many times I discover that my concept was wrong, although I believed in it, because someone said so.
Plus, not everyone here agrees on it... :)

First - nomenclature.
Switch back - it is a special design LED that can display two colours (mainly amber and white). It may be done by some tiny module inside, or by altering current source (two terminals) or even by an external driver. Switchback LED is one that most of the time is white, but when turn signal is activated you go to amber. And then back again white.
Hyperflash - that is double rate of regular flash rate for turn signal. Also, may happen with headlights (flicker) when computer is trying to establish voltage in case it detects less load than anticipated.

A word about OEM LED - those are not powered by pure DC. It is actually very well controlled AC supply... hence you will see the flicker when recorded by a digital camera.

As for them being PnP - yes and no. As for headlights - many times you can simply remove original bulb and insert your LED. But it may not always work well, especially with very sensitive computer for resistance. It may detect that LED pulls 40 W instead of 55 W (as expected by H11 halogen). This would require some work around in terms of capacitor or other filters. Some even add load resistors (that is the worst solution as you will deal with huge heat load). It may seem it is not a lot, but I ran a test of 60 W load resistor that was rated 6 Ohm (that means that at 12 V it will allow 2 A of current - that means that the total power consumed is 24 W. IF you change voltage - resistance remains same - you can alter the total power, for example, still 6 Ohm, but at 24 V, means allows for 4 A and that will in turn provide 96 W).
So, being loaded with 24 W, which is way below rated capacity, it heated up to 150 deg C in about two minutes. In under one minute it got 110 deg C. That meant I do not want to have any heat source like this in the car.
What I did was to put 18 W light bulbs in line. Enough to get the hyperflash taken care of, but still low enough to get hyperflash if LED fails.


One of the areas that need addressing as far as lighting is the turn signals both front and back. When I view it from a reasonable distance, you can hardly see it unless the ambient surrounding is pitch dark; they are virtually nonexistent in the day time.
I know what you feel.
I have been there.
But I bet I found a solution.
If I can, I may take a picture... maybe tomorrow.

So, for LED to work well it must have overall more luminescence than your OEM light bulb. Finding LED chip that provides as much light as 27 W light bulb is hard, because LED produce HEAT as well. And enclosing them in those tiny capsules to fit 1156 socket is impossible. Some heatsinks are added, but still may not be enough.
In addition. You think that if you keep adding LED chips into a tower, it will make them equivalent to 27 W tungsten. Nope. I mean, on paper yes, but not in the light enclosure. The problem you will have there is the light source. Or maybe light concentration.
Look on the filament. It is positioned in a certain spot across all 1156 type light bulbs. Now, see the LED tower with 50 chips. They are scattered all around. Hence, you will get some light overall, but it will not be near the intensity you get from 27 W 1156 tungsten.

So, I found this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Amber-X...359116?hash=item3620d9808c:g:MxMAAOSwHMJYNp~~



Why is it unique?
Because it has a mirror that concentrates the light output into a tiny beam and its location is almost identical with 1156 tungsten.
Now, my LED turn signal, although not as yellow as I wanted, is brighter and more intense than OEM.
As I said earlier - no resistor. I calculated the OEM load and subtracted what the LED takes. Then tested a few light bulbs and simply added 18 W tungsten in a socket. It sits hidden in the trunk well.
 
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As for my knowledge... it is still quite minimal as I learn everyday and many times I discover that my concept was wrong, although I believed in it, because someone said so.
Plus, not everyone here agrees on it... :)

First - nomenclature.
Switch back - it is a special design LED that can display two colours (mainly amber and white). It may be done by some tiny module inside, or by altering current source (two terminals) or even by an external driver. Switchback LED is one that most of the time is white, but when turn signal is activated you go to amber. And then back again white.
Hyperflash - that is double rate of regular flash rate for turn signal. Also, may happen with headlights (flicker) when computer is trying to establish voltage in case it detects less load than anticipated.

A word about OEM LED - those are not powered by pure DC. It is actually very well controlled AC supply... hence you will see the flicker when recorded by a digital camera.

As for them being PnP - yes and no. As for headlights - many times you can simply remove original bulb and insert your LED. But it may not always work well, especially with very sensitive computer for resistance. It may detect that LED pulls 40 W instead of 55 W (as expected by H11 halogen). This would require some work around in terms of capacitor or other filters. Some even add load resistors (that is the worst solution as you will deal with huge heat load). It may seem it is not a lot, but I ran a test of 60 W load resistor that was rated 6 Ohm (that means that at 12 V it will allow 2 A of current - that means that the total power consumed is 24 W. IF you change voltage - resistance remains same - you can alter the total power, for example, still 6 Ohm, but at 24 V, means allows for 4 A and that will in turn provide 96 W).
So, being loaded with 24 W, which is way below rated capacity, it heated up to 150 deg C in about two minutes. In under one minute it got 110 deg C. That meant I do not want to have any heat source like this in the car.
What I did was to put 18 W light bulbs in line. Enough to get the hyperflash taken care of, but still low enough to get hyperflash if LED fails.




I know what you feel.
I have been there.
But I bet I found a solution.
If I can, I may take a picture... maybe tomorrow.

So, for LED to work well it must have overall more luminescence than your OEM light bulb. Finding LED chip that provides as much light as 27 W light bulb is hard, because LED produce HEAT as well. And enclosing them in those tiny capsules to fit 1156 socket is impossible. Some heatsinks are added, but still may not be enough.
In addition. You think that if you keep adding LED chips into a tower, it will make them equivalent to 27 W tungsten. Nope. I mean, on paper yes, but not in the light enclosure. The problem you will have there is the light source. Or maybe light concentration.
Look on the filament. It is positioned in a certain spot across all 1156 type light bulbs. Now, see the LED tower with 50 chips. They are scattered all around. Hence, you will get some light overall, but it will not be near the intensity you get from 27 W 1156 tungsten.

So, I found this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Amber-X...359116?hash=item3620d9808c:g:MxMAAOSwHMJYNp~~



Why is it unique?
Because it has a mirror that concentrates the light output into a tiny beam and its location is almost identical with 1156 tungsten.
Now, my LED turn signal, although not as yellow as I wanted, is brighter and more intense than OEM.
As I said earlier - no resistor. I calculated the OEM load and subtracted what the LED takes. Then tested a few light bulbs and simply added 18 W tungsten in a socket. It sits hidden in the trunk well.
Did you order the ones in the ebay link? I'm assuming they will plug into our turn signal socket?
 

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Did you order the ones in the ebay link? I'm assuming they will plug into our turn signal socket?
Yes, I did.
Due to lack of time I never documented my work, but as I said above - their performance is better than OEM tungsten!
To avoid hyperflashing, but to be able to see that the LED stopped working, I added a socket with 18 W light bulb hidden in the rear well/trunk. Since I have trailer wiring it was much easier to do.
Turn signal (for sure front) is 1156 so they fit just fine. But still needs some load as described above.

Unless you find a way to put a LED relay, but I was not able to reach the OEM one.

If LED fails, despite of the 18 W I get hyperflash, so it is better than adding a resistor... and is cheaper and safer. Somehow less heat is being generated.

So, about those LEDs - they are OK for turn signals, but they get very how if left on for a while. As a result the light intensity drops and the colour shifts.
They are not so true yellow as I would like to, but at least less red.

I would NOT use them as DRL or stop as they may overheat quickly in traffic.
Besides we are stop LED already, so no need to.

I did not do the front yet as access is very poor.


Warning - do not look straight on this one. It is a very concentrated beam and actually each LED chip is quite intense.
 

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I think I'll order them myself.

Reading your posts I was thinking these were installed in the front all this time. As you know, the back taillights are already all red so I'm not sure how the yellow/orange LED will emit through that and showing anything other than red.

How did you go about adding a socket? Is this a different and additional socket on the relay via splicing? Our trunk light is a complete joke anyway so additional light wouldn't be a bad idea.
 

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Oh man. You want so much from me...
That is a joke, in case you did not see my smile.


Trunk light - I got it solved.
The socket - OK, I will try to present some pics. Give me a bit time.
I am in a middle of closing of my old house and setting up the new one... not to mention we are moving, or have been for the last 3 weeks... and then we are going in 2 weeks for a 3-week vacation. I do not know what to do first. :)

But yeah, from all LED I got those are the best in performance.

Oh, here is the trick.
In RED lens installing a WHITE light, you will see RED.
In RED lens installing a AMBER light (tungsten), you still will see RED.
In RED lens installing a AMBER LED, you will see AMBER. It will be with RED hue, but much closer to orange than red.

I just wanted the distinction of knowing what a turn signal is vs stop light for drivers behind me.
I hate this RED turn signals.
Turn signal is AMBER. Period. And I am dead serious.
And do not even ask me about combined stop and turn... that is just plain stupid.
Looks cool, but is impractical.
Old stupid system.
 
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