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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so I haven't seen another topic on the fog lamps that would help me with this. Any input on this would be appreciated.

15 Koup SX-T Halogen bulb w/LED Halo

So I want to mod the fog lights so that only the halo comes on when I use the multiswitch on the dash. I pulled out one of the lamps, unplugged the 2 prong connector and peeked inside and I see a board with a connector going to it. Red and Black from connector to power to board - Blue and Gray to power the Halogen bulb. Now if you take out the halogen bulb the LED goes out with it.. Meaning they are run in series. Tried a jumper wire from Blue to Gray with the bulb out and still no LED. That tells me the LEDs are using the resistance in the halogen to work. Resistance across the bulb is 00.2 OHMS.

Just figured out all of this today.. Tomorrow I'm going to stop at the local radioshack and pick up some resistors. Im not sure they are going to have one small enough.

I will continue, with this tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey guys, so I haven't seen another topic on the fog lamps that would help me with this. Any input on this would be appreciated.

15 Koup SX-T Halogen bulb w/LED Halo

So I want to mod the fog lights so that only the halo comes on when I use the multiswitch on the dash. I pulled out one of the lamps, unplugged the 2 prong connector and peeked inside and I see a board with a connector going to it. Red and Black from connector to power to board - Blue and Gray to power the Halogen bulb. Now if you take out the halogen bulb the LED goes out with it.. Meaning they are run in series. Tried a jumper wire from Blue to Gray with the bulb out and still no LED. That tells me the LEDs are using the resistance in the halogen to work. Resistance across the bulb is 00.2 OHMS.

Just figured out all of this today.. Tomorrow I'm going to stop at the local radioshack and pick up some resistors. Im not sure they are going to have one small enough.

I will continue, with this tomorrow!
Ok so I went to RadioShack today and got the smallest resistor I could find to match the ohms read across the halogen bulb to try and just run the resistor in line in place of the halogen bulb, it was a .47 ohm 5watt coil wire resistor. Took out the bulb and put the resistor in its place, the LEDs would turn on for a second then flicker out, resistor got HOT! to the touch which is was telling me it's not big enough...now I'm off to find another one or maybe get the same one and run 2. We shall see.

For those wondering I will be running the halogen bulbs off a seperate power wire with a switch to turn them on seperate. I will be posting pics and step by step if anyone wants to do this themselves.
 

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Ok so I went to RadioShack today and got the smallest resistor I could find to match the ohms read across the halogen bulb to try and just run the resistor in line in place of the halogen bulb, it was a .47 ohm 5watt coil wire resistor. Took out the bulb and put the resistor in its place, the LEDs would turn on for a second then flicker out, resistor got HOT! to the touch which is was telling me it's not big enough...now I'm off to find another one or maybe get the same one and run 2. We shall see.

For those wondering I will be running the halogen bulbs off a seperate power wire with a switch to turn them on seperate. I will be posting pics and step by step if anyone wants to do this themselves.
It might be a better Idea to pull the housing apart and eliminate the series wiring. What ever you use for resistance will always get just as hot as that halogen bulb did. More than likely they have the circuit board ran in series using a resistor on the circuit board for voltage drop to get a 5-6 volts to power the LEDs. Pull it apart and then hook everything back up including the halogen and take a reading from one point where one wire attaches to where the second wire attaches to the circuit board and that is what is needed to power the LEDs (I have seen as little as 3 volts used in other cars). Then you just need to make a small voltage regulator (similar to a cell charger) to get the right voltage and hook it in parallel with the parking lights leaving the fogs on the regular switch and not affecting the canbus module that controls the lights.

Of course I should mention you will have to disconnect the wires from the circuit board and connect them together to separate the two then attach your new power source to the board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It might be a better Idea to pull the housing apart and eliminate the series wiring. What ever you use for resistance will always get just as hot as that halogen bulb did. More than likely they have the circuit board ran in series using a resistor on the circuit board for voltage drop to get a 5-6 volts to power the LEDs. Pull it apart and then hook everything back up including the halogen and take a reading from one point where one wire attaches to where the second wire attaches to the circuit board and that is what is needed to power the LEDs (I have seen as little as 3 volts used in other cars). Then you just need to make a small voltage regulator (similar to a cell charger) to get the right voltage and hook it in parallel with the parking lights leaving the fogs on the regular switch and not affecting the canbus module that controls the lights.

Of course I should mention you will have to disconnect the wires from the circuit board and connect them together to separate the two then attach your new power source to the board.
I tried taking out the lamp completely, would have to bake it to get the front (clear plastic) off. Didn't want to be driving around with it off..then have to reassemble it. Good idea though. Thanks for the tip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok so I went to RadioShack today and got the smallest resistor I could find to match the ohms read across the halogen bulb to try and just run the resistor in line in place of the halogen bulb, it was a .47 ohm 5watt coil wire resistor. Took out the bulb and put the resistor in its place, the LEDs would turn on for a second then flicker out, resistor got HOT! to the touch which is was telling me it's not big enough...now I'm off to find another one or maybe get the same one and run 2. We shall see.

For those wondering I will be running the halogen bulbs off a seperate power wire with a switch to turn them on seperate. I will be posting pics and step by step if anyone wants to do this themselves.
OK! So today I made some progress. I got different resistors 2x 1 ohm 10 Watt. Ran one and it did nothing, ran both in parallel and the LED stays on! Then a resistor starts smoking again.... :(
So I added 2 of the .43 ohm 5 Watt resistors, no LED.. So i took one off, Light stays on and it takes about 1 1/2 minutes then the small resistor smokes... Getting closer.
Automotive exterior Wood Auto part Asphalt Aluminium


Here's what It looks like with just the LED on
Car Vehicle Cloud Grille Hood


So from what i can collect my wattage going into the resistors is 55W <----same as the halogen bulb which is why they keep smoking. I have about the right amount of ohms though at 2.47, so theres something.. I'm either ordering or finding a nearby car audio shop in search of 2x 50W 2.5 ohm resistors, just like the ones used for Anti-Flicker LED turn signal bulbs...

TO BE CONTINUED!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It might be a better Idea to pull the housing apart and eliminate the series wiring. What ever you use for resistance will always get just as hot as that halogen bulb did. More than likely they have the circuit board ran in series using a resistor on the circuit board for voltage drop to get a 5-6 volts to power the LEDs. Pull it apart and then hook everything back up including the halogen and take a reading from one point where one wire attaches to where the second wire attaches to the circuit board and that is what is needed to power the LEDs (I have seen as little as 3 volts used in other cars). Then you just need to make a small voltage regulator (similar to a cell charger) to get the right voltage and hook it in parallel with the parking lights leaving the fogs on the regular switch and not affecting the canbus module that controls the lights.

Of course I should mention you will have to disconnect the wires from the circuit board and connect them together to separate the two then attach your new power source to the board.
Hello!

I got sick of the resistor thing and used your idea!

So heres where I'm at.

Took of lamp assembly, baked in oven for 10 mins at 230 degrees, pulled off front glass. For my first time I am actually very proud of myself!! :D
Took out the circuit board with wiring attached. Hooked it up to the car but left the LED's unplugged. The halogen light will come on without the LED attached!!! Score!
So easy peazy, just run wires out of the assembly attached to the LED and run wiring with a switch and add a step down 12v to 6v converter. And BLAM LEDs will be serepate!
Also taking the assembly apart gives me the opportunity to paint the reflectives inside :)
 

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Hello!

I got sick of the resistor thing and used your idea!

So heres where I'm at.

Took of lamp assembly, baked in oven for 10 mins at 230 degrees, pulled off front glass. For my first time I am actually very proud of myself!! :D
Took out the circuit board with wiring attached. Hooked it up to the car but left the LED's unplugged. The halogen light will come on without the LED attached!!! Score!
So easy peazy, just run wires out of the assembly attached to the LED and run wiring with a switch and add a step down 12v to 6v converter. And BLAM LEDs will be serepate!
Also taking the assembly apart gives me the opportunity to paint the reflectives inside :)
You know the mad scientist from the first fast a furious movie? That's kinda what the picture in my head is
 

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I discovered this issue when I went to replace the Halogen fog light bulbs with LED's. LED replacement worked fine, but no LED Halo lights. Gave up and just put whiter Halogens in. Gets tougher and tougher to modify cars, even supposedly easy things like light bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK.... I blew up my LEDs was messing around some more with resistors and ran 12V to them directly.... Which they only take 5.2V in case anyone was wondering. Disappointed..gonna go full on custom LEDs in the lamp.. To make life easier Im getting 12V DC LEDs lol.... will show pics of the build hehe..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Alright fellas I'm finally done!

I have a lot of hours wrapped up in these from the first post till now.

I used LED's that I ordered so it took a few days to get them.

If you do not want to do this yourself I am offering my services to do this for you for ABOUT $135 depending on shipping costs, the price will include the parts needed.
JUST SEND ME A PM

 

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Wow great video and DIY. I worked with a couple of aftermarket fog lights with built in halo rings, but they used to have much easier connections. Fog light wires plug and play, and the halo only had positive and negative wires to be spliced to parking light power source. By the way, in case anyone needs, here is the instruction how to hook up the fog lights themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wow great video and DIY. I worked with a couple of aftermarket fog lights with built in halo rings, but they used to have much easier connections. Fog light wires plug and play, and the halo only had positive and negative wires to be spliced to parking light power source.
Thank you! Halo Rings wouldn't fit in these fogs with how the factory ring is. They step down all the way around to make the LEDs shine forward and the reflective has the holes in certain places where the LEDs sat on the ring. That's why you see when I was drilling the holes i had the reflective (painted mine black) on it to make sure they would line up perfectly.

This also gives anyone who wants to do this the opportunity to choose what color they want to use, even though doing them one by one and wiring them all together all 8 + and - wires for each individual bulb.

My original goal was to just make the LED ring work individually from the fog light itself, but the fog is using resistance from the board that powered the original LEDs to work. So running them separately and putting a switch on the LEDs was easier than trying to figure out how to get enough resistance to power the fog, and also trying to wire a separate switch for the LEDs.
 

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Can I just remove the bulbs to get the ring only look? Can I remove the bulbs without pulling the bumper cover?
Yes, you can remove the bulb without removing the bumper cover; however, I am not sure how the circuit is built - if by a chance LED halo is not in line with light bulb. Cannot say for sure.

I would rather keep the light bulb in, just unplug the connector. Keep it sealed so that in future fogs will still work.
 

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Someone else was able to pull it and just keep the led ring
access to the bulbs is easy, so why don't you simply try yourself?
 
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