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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone! Just curious if anyone has had the problem as me. I recently just bought a 2016 Forte SX Turbo with about a month ago. Since I purchased the car I have done the hot pipe upgrade along with a custom full 3.5" CAI to the fog light. When I bought the car it had lots of pull and consistent pull too! Since I've done the upgrades I now have a flutter noise coming from my turbo and today I took apart the BOV to try and see if I could find any tears or reason for the noise but the BOV was perfect rubber seal was clean and nothing seemed wrong with the spring inside..I also got under the car and triple checked the hot pipe to see if the loss in power/boost was because of a loose clamp but everything was perfect there too :/ I will also add that after each install of a upgrade I unplugged the ECU (both clips) and disconnected the Neg. battery terminal then waited 45 min just to make sure it was completely reset. I am stumped as to why I'm getting less power with a flutter noise and nothing is loose/broken or torn!? So if anyone could provide me with any suggestions or maybe someone who has had this similar problem as well please enlighten me lol. Thanks!
 

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When you upgrade to anything that increases flow and hp the stock DV can't hold anymore so it's best to look into a forge DV ( not BOV won't fit ) or turboxs sml BOV
 

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OP, less power means less power than previously, stock?

If so, I would not agree that replacing BOV would help since it should hold stock setup fine. And it seems like it did.
I think the problem is somewhere else...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The turbo sx valve is the bov and like I said I already had taken mine apart and checked all the components and is perfectly fine. Yes it seems like it's holding a lot of power back plus has a flutter or sputter notice when WOT
 
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The turbo sx valve is the bov and like I said I already had taken mine apart and checked all the components and is perfectly fine. Yes it seems like it's holding a lot of power back plus has a flutter or sputter notice when WOT
I have the Turbo XS Sml coming and I have the same fluttering as you do and the seeming power loss. I hope I didn't waste my money ordering it. I think mine is from a torn BOV but I haven't had time to pull the stock one off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Please let me know if that's what's your issue was pm me if you end up taking apartment your bov (which is pretty simple) just to let me know if you actually had yours rip or not. I'd really appreciate it! :) Good luck sir!
 
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It will be here 2 days at the earliest, a week at the most. I'll let you know and post pics of my stock BOV if it's torn.
 

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I am planning on removing mine to look for any damage.
The problem is that in my case the low end boost (low rpm between 1500-3500) is poor. About 12-13 PSI. Also, it builds slow. It looks like a leak to me...
However, on the higher end, above 4000 RPM, I can almost hit 18 PSI.

Again, sounds to me like a leak, but I cannot find any obvious place except BOV that has not been checked yet.
 
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When I first bought my car, I too had that fluttering noise. After a quick Google and some research I believe that it is the waste gate. From other turbo cars like ours it sounds identical. As for the turboxs making that sound, I have had mine for a week now and have only heard it once where as I was hearing it constantly with the the stock bov.

Instagram @darth_forte
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I haven't yet replaced my stock bov because I took my stock one off yesterday and you can clearly see the rubber and the spring inside once it comes off the intercooler. The rubber is usually what tears/rips when people hear that flutter and like I said before it's perfect and there's no imperfections and the spring moved freely and is very stiff so that is where I'm stuck lol I can't really explain otherwise what it might be
 

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Yeah I haven't yet replaced my stock bov because I took my stock one off yesterday and you can clearly see the rubber and the spring inside once it comes off the intercooler. The rubber is usually what tears/rips when people hear that flutter and like I said before it's perfect and there's no imperfections and the spring moved freely and is very stiff so that is where I'm stuck lol I can't really explain otherwise what it might be
And you are experiencing power loss?

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So just to throw my 2 cents in. I was running a shielded cone filter on the stock intake hose. I was getting flutter and boost issues down low, lack of power at anything less than full throttle. I decided to swap my stock box with k&n drop in back into the car. No more flutter, way more tq/hp at partial throttle and done a couple runs on the stopwatch. 7.0 secs flat to 60mph in 82 degree weather was my best run not launching hard or building boost off the line with the DIY Short Ram. 6.1 seconds to 60mph with the stock box and drop in, same conditions, same place. Before you go blaming a BOV or RCV or Wastegate try swapping your stock box back on.

Now I don't think its a matter of airflow, i think it's something in the ECM/ECU tuning that's causing the wastegate to vent, which is the sound your hearing. Until im tuned, and maybe even then I'm going to look into getting a larger 3.5 inch smooth tube hooked to the factory box and modify it with extra inlets similar to playswithmymind setup.
 

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The flutter sound is from the intake. It is totally normal and when you get a tune it can be tuned out. Mine did that for a long time till I had Tork tune it out and now I don't get the flutter at all.

Also remember the ecu has to learn the new air flow and will slowly get better the more you drive it. With these ecu's you can't just slap a part on and expect a huge gain. It has to adjust to that part to
 

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Mine got worse and the wastegate was venting way more often than with the stock box and drop in. It got to where my car felt faster in eco mode because it didn't seem to vent nearly as often. I am of course only speaking anecdotally and we know these cars all behave differently dependant on the ecu overlord. I ran my SRI for several months and have a few other basic mods. Unfortunately without a tune you're still at the mercy of the ecm parameters. My setup was definitely having a negative effect though. I had my aits pretty reasonable and had fabbed a decent heatshield. My filter was cool to the touch even in 90+ degree weather and i was funneling air from the stock inlet and had cut a hole in the underbody to pull air up to the filter.

Either way its a simple swap with 3 bolts and a coupling or two to switch between intakes unless you have a true CAI ran into the fenderwell. I need to get a Bluetooth dongle as all my previous tuned cars i datalogged straight from a laptop to the obd2 port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I appreciate all the feedback fellas, It is a bit relieving that someone else has had the same problem too, now that you mention it..Ever since I put on the CAI from the turbo inlet all the way to the fender I have been experiencing the problems around the same time :/ ... I will swap it all out tomorrow to see if that works. I just liked the deep/throaty "CAI" sound but if I am going to loose power or boost Its not even worth it. Now I will add also that when I start the car I am getting a huge WOOOOSSSHSHHH sound coming from the engine and I'm going with the obvious which is the new intake because it began once I installed the new cone either on the stock tube or the 3.5" which I have now. If I understand correctly I need to purchase the TORKTUNE in order to overcome this issue? If so I was looking at getting the 1.5 tune all I am missing is the FMIC and it would be a bummer to have to settle for the stage 1 and just have to end up bumping up to the 1.5 shortly after.
 

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I'm eager to check my standard bov as well now, but struggling to get to that front bolt that is hiding away just behind the bumper how else do i get get it loose.

Please help !!
 

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I'm eager to check my standard bov as well now, but struggling to get to that front bolt that is hiding away just behind the bumper how else do i get get it loose.

Please help !!
The plastic cover that is on the front?
Also, did you remove the hood release cable connector?
 
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When I was stock I would get this from time to time. Now with 6EE FMIC I don't have this problem.

Iv been meaning to check my stock BPV for tears, I'll do that soon..


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I know which bolt your talking about lol you need to unbolt the plastic shroud
around the stock IC once you free that you have to pry the rubber bushing that is retaining in the metal bracket you'll know what I mean once you see it
 
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