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Getting to the dealer for the first free oil change was going to be a major hassle so I did it myself. Not going to sit waiting 2+ hours for something I can do myself in 30 minutes. Well it took me 1.5 hours with the issues I ran into.

Holy crap what a nightmare.

1. Couldn't figure out where to lift the Forte5 with my floor jack
2. Rhino ramps barely cleared the front valance.
3. Oil filter must have been torqued to 100 ft/lbs. After trying to for a 1/2 hour i had to make a run to store to pick up a filter wrench with the teeth. The wrench dented the filter pretty bad during removal. That's how tight that filter was in there.

I used Rotella T6 with a WIX filter. Yes, I know OE is highly recommended. I ordered a lot of 6 OE filters on eBay so I'll be using them moving forward.
 

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You will be fine with the wix. I used them for 5 oil changes with no issues. I switched to the OEM because of how much cheaper it was with the washer! The original filter on my car was a pain also. I crushed it like crazy to get it off. Took me almost 20min to do it. I think others had issues also

Rotella is a good choice for oil. I used it also while I was testing out what oils feel better for my driving style.
 

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A few people on here have told similar stories of over tightened filters and having to break out their filter wrenches! I personally am going with Mobil1 filters M104 instead of OEM filters. I've heard good things about T6, but I run Quaker State full synthetic. I ran some Used oil analyses of the OEM filter vs. the M104 and the results were confused by the engine break-in so I just left off with testing and will go with 3K oil changes with the M104.

There are some threads on here about the lifting point. - nvm - I see you found them!

Jacking point? Is the tow hook a safe place? - Page 2 - Kia Forte Forum : Sedan / Koup / Forte5 Forums

My ramps scuff the front bumper a bit as well, I am thinking of getting some Race Ramps to prevent that. $$$ though.
 

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Mobil one was the company that everyone references for the oil filter fiasco (wrong spring pressure on bypass valve). I have used OEM for a long time. Wix would be my next choice. But if you really want to keep you roil clean get a bypass filter. And for more reading check out Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy . And hopefully next oil change (#2) i will get a UOA done to see how the oil and engine are holding up.
 

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I did my first oil change and learned a few lessons:1) There will be a lot of residual oil left in the pan if you use ramps due to the angles. Next time I will just drive up on some 2x4s for just a bit of lift. 2) A five quart jug is what I always used in my Kia Sorento 2.4, but that will cause an overfill on the 1.6 engine. I had to loosen the oil filter to drain off some excess, repeating the process several times to get about a pint out of it. I strongly recommend using a Kia or Hyundai oil filter and be sure to always relace the drain plug crush washer.
 

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you can always use a big set of pliers and crush the filter if its extremely tight... i did it all the time changing oil on motor homes etc... they were always super tight and if my filter strap/wrench wasn't readily available i would just grab a big set of channel locks.... just dont go wild and crush it too much... just enough for the channel locks to grip and loosen it.
 

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Anyone else have an issue with the dip stick not matching the quantity spec. in the owners manual? Fill with 4.8 quarts and over on the dip stick 1/2" I thought it may have been because of the location of the drain plug (front of oil pan) and if using ramps the pan will not drain completely, so I put it on ramps on a hill so the front was facing down hill so all the oil would drain but still have the issue. called the dealer and they said they have never heard of that.
 

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Do your drain. Fill the filter before putting it on.

Add just 4 quarts. Run the car check for leaks. Check dip stick. Add if necessary. Dont fret about the spec. VTs are the same way.
Remember from the bottom line to the full mark is the equivalent of a quart.

Dont over fill
Too full is more danherous than anywhere in that top fill mark.
 

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Do your drain. Fill the filter before putting it on.

Add just 4 quarts. Run the car check for leaks. Check dip stick. Add if necessary. Dont fret about the spec. VTs are the same way.
Remember from the bottom line to the full mark is the equivalent of a quart.

Dont over fill
Too full is more danherous than anywhere in that top fill mark.
Thats what I have been doing but not close to the Quantity asked for, maybe 4 quarts total rather than the 4.8 by the book. misprint, wrong dip stick or maybe even wrong pan. Going to bring it to the dealer and find out why it is off just to clear things up. Thanks.
 

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Let me chime in here. For some reason, and I don't know what it is, OEM factory install oil filters are often ridiculously too tight. Filters just need to be SNUG sufficient that you can hand loosen and spin off while still warm.
Before your first DIY OEM oil change (a recommended practice), go by Jiffy Lube or similar, if you don't have a strap wrench or an oil filter wrench and ask a "technician" (and I use that term cautiously) to loosen the filter and then hand tighten it. Generally they won't charge if it's not real busy.
We did this on my SRT4 and my friends SRT4 becuase the filters were way too tight.
 

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Alot of the torque specs on the motor in general are way too tight from the factory.

The easiest fix either way is a direct drive "socket" oil filter. I also have always used a teeny tiny bead of 1 minute permatex on my filters. What this does is allow you to use only a snug hand tight seal. Guaranteed no leaky..............

Did this with the oem filters, and then my re-useable.
I'm addicted to one minute gasket from Permetex. It solves so many problems.
 

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Every time I have changed my oil I only put in 4 quarts then its perfectly to the full line. first time I changed it I did it to spec and it was over full. Oil is still clean when I just put the four in and check it after a few days but I think its odd myself but its been that way since new so 4 quarts is cheaper to change then almost 5.
 

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Oil capacity is one thing, the other is refill.

I do not think our manual states it, but total oil capacity can be 4.8 quarts (that is fresh fill), while oil change is less than that.

With oil change you get maybe 4.2 quarts as the rest is hidden in galleys, in the head, oil pump and sump, and the most important - oil cooler.

Hence, do as advised - Gaijiin is right. Pour 4 quarts and then check.
 

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In the past 3 oil changes by the dealer, they have only ever used 4 of my supplied 5 1L bottles of Amsoil and it's perfectly at the top line on the stick.

Next oil change I'm switching to PUP in a 5L jug where I might start doing them myself again.
 

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In the past 3 oil changes by the dealer, they have only ever used 4 of my supplied 5 1L bottles of Amsoil and it's perfectly at the top line on the stick.

Next oil change I'm switching to PUP in a 5L jug where I might start doing them myself again.
if you are going from amsoil to PUP let me know if you feel a difference . I did and not sure if its just me or the car doesn't like it lol
 
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