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The rotella isn't a track or drag strip formulation, it's generally for diesels and heavy duty use. People that do track or drag times or heavy slalom etc etc - should have a race oil ready that doesn't have any "foaming issues". I'd like to see the PROOF of foaming they claim is occurring
No, it is not. Yet, it is for a turbo car. Plus, it does not say not to race the car... and proof? Any oil pressure sensor will detect it (sudden pressure drops, right?).

If your Kias were as sensitive to oil filter issues (non OEM vs OEM) as you mentioned, then certainly disassembling an OEM Filter to compare with aftermarket would reveal differences in construction, springs, valves, filter material, flow, gaskets etc.
I know what you are saying, but understand that. Like I said. There were comparisons, and none really revealed anything spectacular. However, KIA did their own research and created TSB to advice not to use non-OEM filters.

I use OEM now and that's it. They are inexpensive anyway.


As for oils. I look into specs (viscosity, pour point, NOACK, shearing if available from manufacturer). Any good oil test requires extensive knowledge, plus equipment that is not only expensive, but not readily available. We are not "experts". I am no expert. But we share our experiences. We communicate what we see, what we feel, what we think is happening. Some listen and share their thoughts, some complain and argue...
 
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I've been using Walmart full-synthetic 5W-30 (supertech) for a few years now on different cars. I have no complaints. JMO
The supplier / manufacture of the oil has changed a few times, but still has been ALL good.
The price point is very good, so when in doubt I change it sooner then later.
I do use OEM oil filters on the car, cheap and good. Buy them on the Bay.
 

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If you want to know if the ROTELLA oil is suitable for racing, instead of that "faulty logic" thing (doesnt' say NOT to race it) - just email the manufacturer. Kia will tell you to use OEM oil filters because it puts money in their coffers.
 

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One of the best kept secrets (well kind of!) is the WalMart supertech synthetic oil - incidentally the refinery they get to packaged & label their oil is in Louisiana and the oil is the same thing Kragen and AutoZone sell as their house synthetic. Napa auto parts too IIRC. If you get the upper end FRAM oil filter at walmart (and avoid the crappy orange thing) - you have a great synthetic oil change and great filtration.
 

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If you want to know if the ROTELLA oil is suitable for racing, instead of that "faulty logic" thing (doesnt' say NOT to race it) - just email the manufacturer. Kia will tell you to use OEM oil filters because it puts money in their coffers.
Dollar for dollar Rotella T6 5w40 is the best oil. It is not unusual to be able to get it for as little as 21.00 a jug. Many many VT 1.6 T=GDI's are fans of this brand.

Our manual says 5w30 or 5w40. It also has all the rating requirements from our manual.
 

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Dollar for dollar Rotella T6 5w40 is the best oil. It is not unusual to be able to get it for as little as 21.00 a jug. Many many VT 1.6 T=GDI's are fans of this brand.

Our manual says 5w30 or 5w40. It also has all the rating requirements from our manual.
Depending on what pricing occurs in anyone's particular location in the country, Rotella is always on sale at Oreilly and AutoZone where I live in California. I"ve never used it but it's been around a long time!
 

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Many, many Veloster turbo owners are using it or have used it. One of the biggest proponents is a guy that goes by Whiteboy. He is a big time Auto X er. Does the Veloster challenge. So he tracks his car big time.

The oil is tough as they come. Of course we should all change every 3 K due to our GDI fuel dilution. Forget the oil analysis, One test is more expensive than an oil change. Change it !!

I have even used it in my Yamaha jet boat with great results,...LOL. (It uses a 10w40 synth).

I will use anything:
CERMA
Motul
Rotella T6
 

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Dexos d1 cover ACEA 5A spec? Im so sick of trying to hunt down 5A oil, in fact Im sick of oil as a whole. anyone have any idea? thanks. I have yet to find anything that anyone can definitively say it meets 5A spec.
 

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Im way beyond warranty.
Warranty? I bet the moment you pushed the start button warranty expired. At least in your mind...
 
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Yeah I used it in my Subaru and it was popular there. But since it doesn't meet the spec for ours I'm not risking it.
What "risk" are you referring to? Please site what damage or excessive wear you think could be occurring by using this oil. Or in other words - what part(s) of the engine do you feel would fail faster or wear fast by not having oil with this "spec"?
 

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What "risk" are you referring to? Please site what damage or excessive wear you think could be occurring by using this oil. Or in other words - what part(s) of the engine do you feel would fail faster or wear fast by not having oil with this "spec"?
My take on this is because ACEA A5 is an extended drain oil and the 1.6T is known for fuel dilution they wanted to spec out an extended drain oil to help handle the dilution even thou it is recommended to change every 3,000 miles. Its not really the oil itself and its wear properties but its the dilution that they are trying to mitigate and handle, that is the real issue I believe.
What ever happened to "ding ding" "throw in a can of SAE 30 and top off my radiator please" damn I just dated myself
 

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My take on this is because ACEA A5 is an extended drain oil and the 1.6T is known for fuel dilution they wanted to spec out an extended drain oil to help handle the dilution even thou it is recommended to change every 3,000 miles. Its not really the oil itself and its wear properties but its the dilution that they are trying to mitigate and handle, that is the real issue I believe.
What ever happened to "ding ding" "throw in a can of SAE 30 and top off my radiator please" damn I just dated myself
I would agree with this as well. If one is really concerned about fuel dilution just run a pure ester syn. It deals with this the best. Examples are MOTUL, Redline, and AMALIE Elixir. They also are pretty expensive.
Any custom oil mix rated as a EURO formula will handle this better as well.
 

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My take on this is because ACEA A5 is an extended drain oil and the 1.6T is known for fuel dilution they wanted to spec out an extended drain oil to help handle the dilution even thou it is recommended to change every 3,000 miles. Its not really the oil itself and its wear properties but its the dilution that they are trying to mitigate and handle, that is the real issue I believe.
What ever happened to "ding ding" "throw in a can of SAE 30 and top off my radiator please" damn I just dated myself
Could you provide the details on "known for fuel dilution" - when it occurs etc. I"ve never hear of this occurring with Kia turbo engine. I"m financing a Kia KOUP this week; want to know stuff like this.
 

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Because we are gdi the fuel gets sprayed directly into the cylinders and the fuel even mixes with the oil that's on the walls. I'm sure there is more to it though that the other guys can go into depth about.

When I put my catch cans on I noticed way less fuel dilution in the oil.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

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Because we are gdi the fuel gets sprayed directly into the cylinders and the fuel even mixes with the oil that's on the walls. I'm sure there is more to it though that the other guys can go into depth about.

When I put my catch cans on I noticed way less fuel dilution in the oil.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
I'm going to stipulate to the theoretical basis of this until I know more. Catch can on a turbo is a must-do.
Do you have photos of your dog-bone mounts?
 

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Ok guys I'm just going to put this out here. I personally use amzoil in my car and have for almost 30k miles. Now I am running Amzoil XL not Signature. As their websites states XL is only a1b1 which to me is kinda crazy but that to spec. Now Signature which I believe some of you guys are using is in fact A5. Now heres the thing when I originally bought my car I went to the amzoil dealer and spoke with them about all the oil stuff that I have ever read and facts vs options ect ect. Now this rep is a rather higher up and knowledgeable person when it comes to mechanics and oil. I will also bring up that I personally know the Amatsios the owners of Amzoil and some people that work for them so I'm not just that car guy that spoke to someone with a distributer license . I did not get this information from the owners but reps from the original warehouse btw. Rep stated that the Signature blend is for extened oil change intervals and yes meet a lot of requirements but that it typically for 15k oil change intervals. I brought up the A1 to A5 difference and he was like well yeah but its not really benefit if you do your intervals at 5k anyways. So he recommended XL and thus have been running even since.

So our book says to run A5 simple as that with 5k interval. How is it that Kia expects you to change your oil with this A5 that almost no one knows about that has been rated for 15k interval and change it at 5k seems like a waste of money. Obviously they recommend that oil for a reason but I'm not overly convinced that its necessary. Btw Kia shop recommended Mobile one for my car just to put this in perspective. They also run conventional oil in many of these cars, not the turbo but basically everything else.

So anyways just wanted to put this out here and see if anyone else is running XL or any experience with A1 and problems. And I'm not looking for links of the differences and number sheets bla bla bla. I'm just getting straight to the point A1 A5 whos running A1 and what has happened whos running A5 and have you been able to have a service station actually have and put in the correct oil and cost.

PS: Sorry for grammar I struggle with writing a lot. Also not looking for hate for running A1 please, it is what it is and ill be responsible for warranty issues if they occur.

Thanks
 
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