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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got replacement ECM for my Forte.
It is exactly same part number, all markings are same. Donor is 2016 AT.

When connected to the car, it is recognised and everything seems to be working. However, the car does NOT start.
It turns over, all the noises from engine bay are like in "stock" ECM, but it does not fire up.

Why? What can I do to have it running?
 

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I got replacement ECM for my Forte.
It is exactly same part number, all markings are same. Donor is 2016 AT.

When connected to the car, it is recognised and everything seems to be working. However, the car does NOT start.
It turns over, all the noises from engine bay are like in "stock" ECM, but it does not fire up.

Why? What can I do to have it running?
Don't you have to have your exact ECU copied over to it? I've seen that mentioned a number of times, if you want to have spare ECU then your exact image needs to be flashed over to it as every single car is different.
 

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wouldn't the vin need to be transferred on there as well like with tunes?
also i read from the VT forum that ecu's have these so called "layers" that need to be transferred or else there could be problems.
think it was this thread check it out Tune... why does it have to be bench flashed?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for responses.
But those are only speculations... I also read/heard here and there that VIN must match.
Then I read that if VIN does NOT match, the car will go into limp mode.

Yet, ECM is recognised. Everything works, it even scans codes. Still, not start just like there was no spark or fuel. Not even a small sputter.

I have not found one solid answer. It all looks like may or may not.

In addition - a tech from KIA told me that as long as part numbers are same, it will work just fine.


Finally, how one could tell the ECM is faulty?
 

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Wouldn't you need specialized equipment/software to determine that? Even bad memory in computers run with errors.

What are your plans for the extra ECU/ECM? Assuming they're one in the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Even bad memory in computers run with errors.
Well said.

What are your plans for the extra ECU/ECM? Assuming they're one in the same.
Tune.
I was hoping I could get the car driving with the replacement while all the info was being taken off the stock, put the stock back and get the replacement tuned. This way I would not be left without the car...
I am just debating now which tune/tuner to use. Tork or 6th...

But going back to the topic - any clue what to do to get this one going to make my plan work?
 

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There is no "speculation" about it, the "Hyundai/Kia 1.6t" Facebook group (HARDCORE tuners) as well as the tuner web sites themselves all say this: The original image including VIN has to be copied to somewhere, and that's what the spare is for. The car is looking for a certain image signature, you can't just drop a matching part # as each and every car has it's own specific signature. So unless you are within driving distance of a tuner, you'll have to send both in, but there are cross shipped spares with refundable deposit available too. Also, unless Tork has 10x more customers than everyone else, it looks like they have more of a chance of a blown engine as they have 10x more known failures than any of the other tuners. They all stay with 6th or 845.... good luck!

Edit: Read THIS from 845... It looks like you can just send them a spare to be tuned, but I'd confirm that you don't need that spare already imaged from your car first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Edit: Read THIS from 845... It looks like you can just send them a spare to be tuned, but I'd confirm that you don't need that spare already imaged from your car first.
From what I read elsewhere I must have the "layers" or mine image on the spare ECU to start with anyway.
However, it seems I could try to load my software onto the spare to get this going and have zero down time. Now I remember seeing it before, just forgot about it.
 

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you could also have the dealer restore the spare. first thing they will want to do is restore it before even working on your car anyway. maybe if you talk to the tech specifically they can do this for you. otherwise you will need to just send in both like everyone else. you can ask tork about your options too as they know everything about this stuff.

on another note, i've got my asus memopad and torque working in my car and have been looking at the readings. it has been said before but i can see how our cars barely use boost before tune. for me something like 3-8psi locally and up to 18psi on the highway. with a tune i read boost is increased and thus the extra ponies i'm assuming. however as a result of this increase the average turbo temps will probably go up too and so under hood temps will rise. wouldn't it be wise to have better airflow beforehand? the open mouth bumper is a good start and i think the aftermarket crash bar as well as hood vents would compliment the aftermarket tune. all this is just my thoughts not sure if it applies what do you think?
 
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you could also have the dealer restore the spare. first thing they will want to do is restore it before even working on your car anyway. maybe if you talk to the tech specifically they can do this for you. otherwise you will need to just send in both like everyone else. you can ask tork about your options too as they know everything about this stuff.

on another note, i've got my asus memopad and torque working in my car and have been looking at the readings. it has been said before but i can see how our cars barely use boost before tune. for me something like 3-8psi locally and up to 18psi on the highway. with a tune i read boost is increased and thus the extra ponies i'm assuming. however as a result of this increase the average turbo temps will probably go up too and so under hood temps will rise. wouldn't it be wise to have better airflow beforehand? the open mouth bumper is a good start and i think the aftermarket crash bar as well as hood vents would compliment the aftermarket tune. all this is just my thoughts not sure if it applies what do you think?
Any basic increases in flow, anywhere, is going to help... For example, freeing up exhaust will help hot air escape better which will be less load on the turbo too... I'm considering just a drop in K&N, 2nd cat delete (custom flange off stock downpipe), hot pipe, then single exit cat back to go along plugs for a solid stage 1 tune... Since I'm so close to Tork I really want to trust them but have heard a LOT of bad things about them from the hardcore 1.6t enthusiast community... If I HAD to mail mine in anyway, I'd go with 845, they have a great reputation and are active daily fellow enthusiast posters on the FB group... I learned more on there in 3 weeks about our engines than 6 months on the forums... I was lucky to get an invite! hehe...

Also, found out that indeed our cars make 12-20 more HP on the stock tune with premium fuel, depending on bolt ons and if 91,92, or 93 octane... I definitely notice a difference, hands down, even going from 89 to 92... better mileage while turbo hits and pulls harder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
you could also have the dealer restore the spare. first thing they will want to do is restore it before even working on your car anyway. maybe if you talk to the tech specifically they can do this for you. otherwise you will need to just send in both like everyone else. you can ask tork about your options too as they know everything about this stuff.
Question is what would be the cost of it... because if they ask 500 for spending 2 hrs on copying ECM, I would rather rent a car then. lol


Any basic increases in flow, anywhere, is going to help... For example, freeing up exhaust will help hot air escape better which will be less load on the turbo too...
Not so sure about that... see below.

Also, found out that indeed our cars make 12-20 more HP on the stock tune with premium fuel, depending on bolt ons and if 91,92, or 93 octane... I definitely notice a difference, hands down, even going from 89 to 92... better mileage while turbo hits and pulls harder.
I did not see that. I was using 89 for a while. No improvement overall. Maybe less problems with "random, less output". Other than that - same if not worse fuel economy, power wise did not feel any improvement. Tried 2 tanks of 91 and very same. Maybe engine was quieter? But that could be just my biased experience.

As for heat.
It is going off topic. but I will bring it up.

For the last several weeks I have been running temperature tests (I will make a thread about it when I am done).
That is air coming into intake, coming into the IC and leaving IC. Also, seeing MAP temp.
Then, 3 more: ATF in and out plus transmission temperature as reported by ECM.

As for air.
Our stock IC does a decent job for normal driving - say several pulls, a few harder accelerations. In city - I did not see anything higher than 40 C leaving the IC, even after racing from light to light and waiting for green. That is with ambient of 25 C. At 30 C it got to +40 C, but occasionally. Most of the time it is very close to ambient.
Air coming from the hot pipe is something different.
Now when I am thinking of it - that could be the smell source of a member in Canada (if I recall) who was chasing bad smell during acceleration.
So, under gentle throttle you get 50-60 C. Under middle, easily 70 or more.
Now, do just one 0-50 mph pull, at ambient 25 C, when starting conditions are: 40 C hot pipe, you will see more than 100 C on the inlet at IC. Do a longer one - you get more than 110 C (that's max the probe could read). And push it a few more times, it gets who knows where. 120? 140?
I mean, it is HOT.
After one pull or even two (when you coast for the next half mile) will still let IC to output no more than 40 C.
MAP shows 55 or so...
Now, would exhaust help it? Maybe a bit. Adding tune (pressure) will make the temp higher. And that air stays in the bay.
Hence, I do not want to put FMIC in the front of radiators. Not on the bottom at least as the hot air will be warming up the radiator.
I would rather keep the OEM setup as is with better air flow, better escape from engine bay.

Another story is ATF...

We will go back here with some videos and/or pics.
I will present more info and you will use it as you'd like.

Let's go back to the topic...
 
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Great info, I definitely oversimplified on the heat, but every little bit helps to reduce temps, happy to hear the stock IC isn't that horrible! As far as premium fuel, I've done multiple tanks, back and forth, etc and maybe because mine is a late 2016 that they adjusted the stock tune to take advantage of this more, but it is very, very obvious with mine, I just couldn't tell you why for sure, but the hardcore tuners were the ones who mentioned the 12-20 HP gain, confirmed yes, stock tune... I mean, it's so obvious that I can tell it has more torque so that I get off the line and up hills easier and with less throttle, turbo hits harder, almost too hard and suddenly after the normal bit of lag, and in the good ol' butt dyno with my on-ramp pulls... Of course I'm sure you know it does take a full tank, if not two, to notice the difference as the ECU adapts and adjusts its parameters, but yes, very weird how it's not making a difference on yours!
 
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