Joined
·
219 Posts
ok, ok, so I am shamelessly cross posting this from another forum. hope that's ok, but some here who are not there might have some interesting input
Firstly, this is 2014+ (unless the 2016's change something), and, for Canada at least, EX or above spec / trim level (ie; the headlamps that have the LED strip at the top of them)
As some will know, the DRLs on the car are NOT the lovely LED strips above the lights, referred to by Kia as "LED positioning lights" / parking lights.
The DRL's are using the same bulb as the full beam headlights (push the turn signal arm forward, or pull back for a "flash"), which is an H1 bulb.
I think some people may have investigated some way to have the Positioning Lights as DRLs, not sure on the success there though.
It would be nice if we could have the DRL’s “off” and use the LED Positioning Lights “on” when the DRL’s would normally be on, not sure if that is possible though.
One of the things I don’t like about the standard setup is the yellow color of the DRLs. To this end I switched them out for H1 LED’s.
The only problem is that this means the main / high beam output is severely restricted, we’ll get onto why I believe this in a moment.
I replaced the LED’s (though may put them back in as they do look very good, and who really uses main beam that much? I think perhaps I’ve used it maybe one time in over a year of having the car) with SYLVANIA H1 SilverStar zXe’s and they solved the “yellow” issue, and look quite nice in DRL “mode” and also rather bright in full / main / high beam mode.
From what I can tell / guess, the car is putting a lower voltage through the DRL when it’s in DRL “mode” as it were, ie; not on high / full / main beam. thus creating a duller light. When you toggle full / main / high beam, full voltage is put through and so the full output of the H1 is used.
I’m pretty certain that is what is happening (ok, voltage might nor be the correct term, but I think you understand what I mean), because I’m sure the OEM bulbs and the the zXe’s are not dual filament.
Does anyone know for certain (I have access to the workshop manual - it’s also posted somewhere around here too - so there might be a wiring diagram in there) wether my guess is correct, or are the bulbs actually dual filament?
If they are, then anyone know of any H1 LED’s that could be dual filament, so you could get a good DRL mode and then a decent, say matching OEM, high / main / full beam output?
If they are not, then are there any LED’s that could do what the halogen bulbs do, run in a low power / voltage way for DRL, then in full / main / high beam, run at full power, ideally putting out an OEM level output.
The other thought I had, would be to have two small LED strips in the lower grill, these would be for DRL purposes. Now for the funky bit. Somehow, you’d use something (a relay?) to cut the power to the normal DRL’s ie; the H1’s, when it’s in low power / DRL mode, the feed then goes to the little LED strips, voila, DRLs. When you put on main / full / high beam, then something will allow power to be sent to the H1’s, thus giving you the normal high / full / main beam output. Now, one could also argue, if the LED strips can take it, then keep them on too for that extra bit of “cool” as it were.
Thoughts? Comments?
Firstly, this is 2014+ (unless the 2016's change something), and, for Canada at least, EX or above spec / trim level (ie; the headlamps that have the LED strip at the top of them)
As some will know, the DRLs on the car are NOT the lovely LED strips above the lights, referred to by Kia as "LED positioning lights" / parking lights.
The DRL's are using the same bulb as the full beam headlights (push the turn signal arm forward, or pull back for a "flash"), which is an H1 bulb.
I think some people may have investigated some way to have the Positioning Lights as DRLs, not sure on the success there though.
It would be nice if we could have the DRL’s “off” and use the LED Positioning Lights “on” when the DRL’s would normally be on, not sure if that is possible though.
One of the things I don’t like about the standard setup is the yellow color of the DRLs. To this end I switched them out for H1 LED’s.
The only problem is that this means the main / high beam output is severely restricted, we’ll get onto why I believe this in a moment.
I replaced the LED’s (though may put them back in as they do look very good, and who really uses main beam that much? I think perhaps I’ve used it maybe one time in over a year of having the car) with SYLVANIA H1 SilverStar zXe’s and they solved the “yellow” issue, and look quite nice in DRL “mode” and also rather bright in full / main / high beam mode.
From what I can tell / guess, the car is putting a lower voltage through the DRL when it’s in DRL “mode” as it were, ie; not on high / full / main beam. thus creating a duller light. When you toggle full / main / high beam, full voltage is put through and so the full output of the H1 is used.
I’m pretty certain that is what is happening (ok, voltage might nor be the correct term, but I think you understand what I mean), because I’m sure the OEM bulbs and the the zXe’s are not dual filament.
Does anyone know for certain (I have access to the workshop manual - it’s also posted somewhere around here too - so there might be a wiring diagram in there) wether my guess is correct, or are the bulbs actually dual filament?
If they are, then anyone know of any H1 LED’s that could be dual filament, so you could get a good DRL mode and then a decent, say matching OEM, high / main / full beam output?
If they are not, then are there any LED’s that could do what the halogen bulbs do, run in a low power / voltage way for DRL, then in full / main / high beam, run at full power, ideally putting out an OEM level output.
The other thought I had, would be to have two small LED strips in the lower grill, these would be for DRL purposes. Now for the funky bit. Somehow, you’d use something (a relay?) to cut the power to the normal DRL’s ie; the H1’s, when it’s in low power / DRL mode, the feed then goes to the little LED strips, voila, DRLs. When you put on main / full / high beam, then something will allow power to be sent to the H1’s, thus giving you the normal high / full / main beam output. Now, one could also argue, if the LED strips can take it, then keep them on too for that extra bit of “cool” as it were.
Thoughts? Comments?
