Kia Forte Turbo Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So my Tork downpipe has officially been sitting in my room for about 2 months now..After many failed attempts by me, my dad, and my cousin, to install it I have officially decided to reach out to my fellow brothers and see if i can get any advice, recommendations or anything at all really! Has anybody taken off our DP before? Every time we go to start doing it, we just end up staring at it and saying forget it haha What tools do you guys recommend? Is most of the work done on the top or underneath? Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated! I need to get this thing on so I can finally install my wideband!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
I forgot which size socket but you need like 3 or 4 extensions and you do it from the top. It's hard to see the 3 bolts from on top so I had my buddy under the car guiding the sockets onto the nuts. My motor was a little warm and they came off like nothing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I forgot which size socket but you need like 3 or 4 extensions and you do it from the top. It's hard to see the 3 bolts from on top so I had my buddy under the car guiding the sockets onto the nuts. My motor was a little warm and they came off like nothing
Other than the 3 bolts from on top, is there anything else that I need to remove? Or anything that I could take off to see better? Did you remove the o2 sensor from the top as well? What about the headsheild by the exhaust manifold? I swear when I look at this downpipe installation I feel like I'm looking at Chinese calligraphy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
i didn't need to take off any heat shields from on top. not sure if i took any off from the bottom. you will need to remove your battery as well cause that is where your ratchet will be. it was hard for me to see the bolts from the bottom so i had my buddy down there guiding me on to the nuts cause he could see them. i was a little puzzled at first as well but was pretty easy after all said and done. disconnect your stock dp from the mid pipe before you start in case you tried with it on
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
i didn't need to take off any heat shields from on top. not sure if i took any off from the bottom. you will need to remove your battery as well cause that is where your ratchet will be. it was hard for me to see the bolts from the bottom so i had my buddy down there guiding me on to the nuts cause he could see them. i was a little puzzled at first as well but was pretty easy after all said and done. disconnect your stock dp from the mid pipe before you start in case you tried with it on
Okay so let me just make sure I got this right. You removed the battery as well as the terminal like when you install the shift cable bushings in order to fit the ratchets. I am guessing this also gave you a little bit better of a visual to see. So from the top you used multiple extensions and removed the 3 bolts which I'm guessing was the bolts that was holding the stock downpipe to the turbo. Other than the 3 bolts from the downpipe and the 2 bolts from the midpipe, and taking off the o2 sensor, is there anything else that needs to be removed? I feel like i understand, but I just want to confirm haha If you lived in Jersey right now I'd buy you several beers for your knowledge haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
981 Posts
Remove the battery, ECU and then the battery tray (this will give you more room to work). From underneath unbolt the mid-pipe (removing the heat shield on the turbo is optional and only requires removing a bracket and a few easy bolts and allows you to see better). There are 2 plugs for the O2 sensors down behind / below the high pressure fuel pump, unplug those and release the clips holding the O2 wires to the bracket going down (easier to remove the O2s after the DP is out and less chance of damage to the wire from twisting). Then you have 3 - 12mm nuts to remove (deep 12mm and a few extensions with a ratchet) and then the DP will slide out the bottom (be gentle and don't drop it since the O2s are still on the DP). Then install new pipe and enjoy.

PS: If the nuts feel like they don't want to move or they start to move then stop and feel tight again be prepared to remove the turbo to have new studs installed. Most people have had no problems but a few have including me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mikeysweettricks

·
Registered
Joined
·
981 Posts
2 of the nuts can be seen from the underside but not easily gotten to from below, the third is inside a small area right in front of the O2 sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Remove the battery, ECU and then the battery tray (this will give you more room to work). From underneath unbolt the mid-pipe (removing the heat shield on the turbo is optional and only requires removing a bracket and a few easy bolts and allows you to see better). There are 2 plugs for the O2 sensors down behind / below the high pressure fuel pump, unplug those and release the clips holding the O2 wires to the bracket going down (easier to remove the O2s after the DP is out and less chance of damage to the wire from twisting). Then you have 3 - 12mm nuts to remove (deep 12mm and a few extensions with a ratchet) and then the DP will slide out the bottom (be gentle and don't drop it since the O2s are still on the DP). Then install new pipe and enjoy.

PS: If the nuts feel like they don't want to move or they start to move then stop and feel tight again be prepared to remove the turbo to have new studs installed. Most people have had no problems but a few have including me.
Did you end up unscrewing the 3 12mm nuts from underneath or above the car?? I feel like it's easier underneath but since you've done it before what do you think? My last and final question i swear haha How many o2 sensors do we have? two? I did buy the tork catless dp so if we do indeed have two, would i need the first o2 sensor since i'm removing the cat anyway that way i have the extra bungee for my wideband?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
Do you think your studs came loose because your engine was still warm Playwithmymind? Because if that is the case then put out a PSA lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
981 Posts
Did you end up unscrewing the 3 12mm nuts from underneath or above the car?? I feel like it's easier underneath but since you've done it before what do you think? My last and final question i swear haha How many o2 sensors do we have? two? I did buy the tork catless dp so if we do indeed have two, would i need the first o2 sensor since i'm removing the cat anyway that way i have the extra bungee for my wideband?
I did almost everything from the top. Mine ended up getting a lot more involved after 2 studs broke. Most of the blame for that is the dealer, I know the tech just ran them on with an impact instead of torquing them when they changed the engine out. This was installing the 3rd DP in my car and had no problems the first 2 times.

Do you think your studs came loose because your engine was still warm Playwithmymind? Because if that is the case then put out a PSA lol
Well yes my engine was warm but the nuts didn't come off the studs, they seized to the stud and ended up breaking the stud off. This happens most of the time with stainless that is either heat cycled or over tightened.
 
  • Like
Reactions: schizorazgriz

·
Registered
Joined
·
981 Posts
And yes we have 2 O2 sensors, are you having a 3rd bung installed for the AFR or just using the hole for the second O2? Might be able to have that O2 shut off with a tune so you don't get a cel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,067 Posts
After working on the pipe. If you take your time I can see it being easier to do it underneath.

First take out the rear o2 and then place it in a safe place. Then the 4 bolts and then remove the flex pipe.

After that I would remove the 4 12mm bolts on the sides of the heatshield. 2 on each side. This gives you a little more room.

Then unplug the main o2 sensor so your not wrestling with it when you remove the downpipe.

Then spray liberal amounts of pb blaster on the flange bolts. Maybe get a snack while they soak.

Then what I did to keep constant pb blaster on the bolts is I soaked a piece of paper towel and shoved it into the socket. So when the socket is on the bolt it's dripping pb blaster on the stud lubricating it.

The 2 bottom ones are easier to see from the bottom the. Just feel to the top one. Take your time and go slow.

Any resistance then tighten the bolt back a few turns and spray more pb blaster on the stud.

When you get the bolts out its heavy. Carefully lower it. Then swap the o2 sensor to the new pipe and do the reverse for the reinstall.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Trocko

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,067 Posts
Don't forget to put antiseeze on the studs during reassembly. It may or may not help in the future. But any help is better than none.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Trocko

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the help guys! This thing really needs to be put on already! Probably get the o2 bung installed this weekend and do it sunday!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Not too necro a thread, but I finally did this... What a PITA to install! If you're using the Tork pipe, it might be best going in to just unplug all your O2 sensors before ever messing with pipe. You'll have take them out if their brackets anyway once you get the new pipe installed- It's a super tight fit
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top