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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got mine from Tork Motorsports. All 4 pieces are the same no designated fronts or rears.
It didn't really take very long to do. Once you do one side of the car the other side is identical.
The feel is much tighter on the steering on corners and turns and I've noticed less bounce in general.
For the price, it makes sense to do and I'm happy with them.

Things you will need:
jack, jack stands, light, 1/2 in rachet, socket 14,19, and deep socket 19 with at least 6in extension, at least 1/2 in breaker bar, torque wrench (115-130 ft/lbs)

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1. Jack up the car from the mount and place jack stands around the centers of the subframe.
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2. Starting from the front passenger side, the fronts will be through the hole where my index finger is, straight up you will see a pointed bolt and a nut.
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3. Remove the nut with the breaker bar and socket 19 with extension.
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4. If there is debris in the grooves where the collars slide in, use a fine pointed or small flat blade to dig it out.
Otherwise if there is no debris, slide the collar in, and screw the nut back into place but not tightened.
I didn't have trouble sliding this one in at all. Others might have mixed results.
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5. Now for the passenger rear. Picture is from down under on passenger side facing the front.
My index finger is pointing at the rear bolt. Loosen the bolt with the breaker bar or rachet using socket 19.
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6. In the same way as the front, remove the bolt, insert the collar, and screw back bolt into place but not tightened.
I couldn't slide the collar in perfectly this time as it wasn't aligned perfectly. There are 2 adjacent bolt and nut in that same triangle.
Loosen them with socket 14 just enough to jiggle around the triangle until the collar slides in.
Screw back into place the 2 adjacent bolt and nut but not tightened.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
7. Now to the driver side front. Picture is under the car driver side facing the rear.
In the same way as the passenger side, locate the same hole and take out the nut, insert collar, and screw back into place the nut but not tightened.
Clearing out the debris, I still had trouble sliding the collar on this side as it wasn't aligned perfectly but I proceeded to insert the collar as much as it could go
and used the nut to screw back against it to sort of force slide its way in. There shouldn't be too much tension as it goes in so don't overexert here.
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8. For the driver rear. Picture is positioned from under the driver side facing towards the passenger side. Index finger is pointing at the bolt.
Pretty much the same as the other side, Remove bolt. insert collar, screw bolt back into place but not tightened.
Same for the adjacent bolts in the triangle if needed. I had to align the triangle on this side as well to get it to slide in.
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9. Last step is to torque the bolts and nuts up.
Sub frame mounting bolt & nut
156.9 ~ 176.5N.m(16.0 ~ 18.0kgf.m, 115.7 ~ 130.2lb-ft)
This doesn't apply to the 2 adjacent bolts and nuts. I don't have the torque values for these but I did about half the strength on these vs the subframe bolts and nuts.
Don't forget to tighten all 4 sides as well as the 2 adjacent on both sides if loosened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the feedback! I know how daunting an install can be especially if its your first time. I will try to keep this up with future upgrades. I'm either gonna work on throttle body coolant bypass or regulator bypass and tranny drain and fill next.
 
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Thanks for the feedback! I know how daunting an install can be especially if its your first time. I will try to keep this up with future upgrades. I'm either gonna work on throttle body coolant bypass or regulator bypass and tranny drain and fill next.
So anything more about the feel? You did say it feels tighter, but is it true or more like a "I think it is"?

Also, the collars - are the loose fit or tight fit? In other words - when inserting them did you easily slide them on, or had to push them in and then they expand to completely fill the void?
The latter is the ideal collar...



And great write up with great pics. Thanks for taking the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I definitely felt those differences and the tightness I described but still small differences. The curves and corners at high speed is where I noticed to be more stable on the road.
I feel like few days after the install its easy to take for granted and almost forget having done them haha.
Nevertheless, the ride still feels a little better than before. It has also opened my mind to trying out the braces and bars like the evilla 3 piece kit.

most likely the loose fit but i'm not totally sure about this. they seem to slide in easy so long as everything is lined up.

thanks hope it helps someone else who thinks they cant. now you can!
 
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Gonna do this and IC res delete today but I'm trying to see where you put the jack. DId you jack it up using the subframe brace or the motor mount? I read the 'do you lift bro' thread and I'm still not sure where I want to try to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Gonna do this and IC res delete today but I'm trying to see where you put the jack. DId you jack it up using the subframe brace or the motor mount? I read the 'do you lift bro' thread and I'm still not sure where I want to try to do it.
i used the motor mount to jack up the car and then placed 2 jack stands on each side of the subframe.
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i used the motor mount to jack up the car and then placed 2 jack stands on each side of the subframe.
Last place I would ever place the jack is under that end of the mount. This positioning of the
jack places the weight of the car on 2 bolts (center bolt of trans mount and center bolt of right engine mount) that
are only meant to support the weight of the engine and trans.
Any time you want to lift the front end off the ground or suspend the tires in the air you
would want to place the jack at a factory jack point, under the cross member or at the lower
control arm mounting point (front or rear bolt).
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Last place I would ever place the jack is under that end of the mount. This positioning of the
jack places the weight of the car on 2 bolts (center bolt of trans mount and center bolt of right engine mount) that
are only meant to support the weight of the engine and trans.
Any time you want to lift the front end off the ground or suspend the tires in the air you
would want to place the jack at a factory jack point, under the cross member or at the lower
control arm mounting point (front or rear bolt).
ah good point. i wasn't formally trained as a tech.
i learned to do this from someone who thinks thoroughly and through things. perhaps he was just being impatient or lazy.
i never really questioned it thanks for the advice.
 

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Last place I would ever place the jack is under that end of the mount. This positioning of the
jack places the weight of the car on 2 bolts (center bolt of trans mount and center bolt of right engine mount) that
are only meant to support the weight of the engine and trans.
Any time you want to lift the front end off the ground or suspend the tires in the air you
would want to place the jack at a factory jack point, under the cross member or at the lower
control arm mounting point (front or rear bolt).
This was my thinking and why I was asking to confirm. Never had a car that made it so difficult to get it up....so to speak.

Might be time to invest in some ramps I guess.
 

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Last place I would ever place the jack is under that end of the mount. This positioning of the
jack places the weight of the car on 2 bolts (center bolt of trans mount and center bolt of right engine mount) that
are only meant to support the weight of the engine and trans.
Any time you want to lift the front end off the ground or suspend the tires in the air you
would want to place the jack at a factory jack point, under the cross member or at the lower
control arm mounting point (front or rear bolt).
using the factory point makes sense, but then you must find a place to position the stand jack... and you cannot place it there while floor jack is still there.

Front is a PITA to lift. Not much clearance.
However, yes, factory points to keep the car secured, but control arm mounting points as the lifting points.
 

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So, could I theoretically take my car to an alignment shop, ask for a slightly sportier handling alignment and have them install the tork collars at the end? I hear that's a part of the wandering feeling while cornering is the too conservative alignment job...
 

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So, could I theoretically take my car to an alignment shop, ask for a slightly sportier handling alignment and have them install the tork collars at the end? I hear that's a part of the wandering feeling while cornering is the too conservative alignment job...
The other way around.
First git them installed and then correct alignment as I am almost certain it may change a bit.
 

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So, could I theoretically take my car to an alignment shop, ask for a slightly sportier handling alignment and have them install the tork collars at the end? I hear that's a part of the wandering feeling while cornering is the too conservative alignment job...
Unless you have aftermarket suspension parts there is no real adjustments besides toe. For caster and camber adjustments you would need adjustable top plates for the struts.

Still a good idea to at least have the alignment checked after getting the bushings installed.
 
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