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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
first off you need the inserts for the lower engine mount.
inserts fill the void of the original bushing to limiting engine movement.
improvements include more effective power delivery to the wheels and crisper more defined gear changes,
along with less stress for the exhaust down pipe.
green is 65A semi-hard and red is 75A hard.
the veloster's version will fit the same as forte.
the install/removal of the lower mount is very simple and the breakdown of it isn't that difficult to understand.

basic things you will need
jack/jack stands, light, 1/2 socket set using 14 & 19, inserts/bushing, grease
it would help to have a vice for removing the bushing and to torque it back down.
i used the hinge bolt with the mount on the car for this as i didn't have a vice.

jack up the car and jack stands on the subframe
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pictures of the lower engine mount
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undo and remove the bolt that hinges the lower mount 19mm
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undo the two 14mm bolts that hold the mount to the frame
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mount comes out with ease
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mount removed but the bolt torquing down the bushings needs to be loosened.
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if you have a vice i would use that instead to grip the mount and remove the bolt otherwise you could make due with what you got.
put the hinge bolt along with the mount and finger tighten
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raise the mount towards the front of the car and use your rachet to loosen the bolt.
the stress will enter the mount hinge hole but its okay since its surrounded with rubber and looks to be durable to take it.
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operating time!
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breakdown of the mount
14.jpg

getting ready for the swap
15.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
i started with the middle piece and just greased the points of contact with the bushings and where they mount to.
once i got them sandwiched, i greased up the rod TWSS and installed that through the bushings.
make sure you align the grooves with the notches so that it all seats flat and doesn't twist.
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the stock rubber bushings can be squeezed very easily in my hand.
this cannot be done with the 65A bushings!
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greased the end piece and to put the bolt back in.
notice the notches and of coarse the grooves in the bushing.
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don't forget the bolt pin which the bolt screws into to hold it in place
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hand tighten down the bolt and put mount back onto the car with hinge bolt finger tight.
repeat the same steps earlier in loosening this bolt to tighten 65 lb-ft
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tighten down the two 14mm bolts to 36.2-47.0 lb-ft
tighten down the 19mm hinge bolt to 79.6-94.0 lb-ft
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finished product!
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so far with test driving only i have noticed a little vibration especially where my feet rest.
i can feel it more at a stop with my foot resting on the brake pedal and also at take off and between 1st and 2nd.
it definitely takes off better. it feels like a little more of the lost power is going to the ground.
i will need more time with this before i post more results about it.
more to come soon..
hot pipe
29.jpg

cold pipe and 3TBS
30.jpg
 

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Thanks for the write-up, I like the suggestions on the vibration thread you linked as well... I think I'm going to keep this car and actually knock out these little things that can help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
small update after some driving..
besides vibrations, this is definitely what should have came stock on the car.
i can feel the better delivery of power to the ground with these.
with a semi race car like ours it makes sense to bridge this gap.
the car feels better connected to the engine/trans and the shifting feels smoother.
interestingly the car sounds a little more audible to the outside with this installed probably the vibration sound im not sure.
all in all so far i have no regrets and the vibration isn't that bad as others claim.
i could imagine the reds are much more intense.
i'm still testing these out still but like them very much too!
i got more response from these than i did the subframe collars.
best part is i bought them used from someone on VT for $20 shipped for the pair.
i think i did good there haha :)
 
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i could imagine the reds are much more intense.
I have both of them... sitting now in a box.

If I was to put them on a scale, from 1 to 10, where 1 is soft, 10 is hard, and lets assume stock in 1, red is 10, green would come up about 7-8.
Red is not so much stiffer than green; however, green is much more stiff than OEM. I mean, OEM is soft as a sponge when taking them both into your palm.


Maybe I tightened them too much, or position was a bit off. As in the video, with AC on the vibrations were intolerable. When engine speed increased, as shown as well, it would be smooth. I had even one or two times ECU problem (some error) due to vibrations, so I decided to remove them after all.
Yet, I admit - it was great contact.
Did not completely solve wheel hop, but each shift and power delivery were great.

Now, on my Auto, the OEM must have soften a bit, as the shifts are not so stiff as used to be. I might be going back to the topic with some shaving now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have both of them... sitting now in a box.

If I was to put them on a scale, from 1 to 10, where 1 is soft, 10 is hard, and lets assume stock in 1, red is 10, green would come up about 7-8.
Red is not so much stiffer than green; however, green is much more stiff than OEM. I mean, OEM is soft as a sponge when taking them both into your palm.


Maybe I tightened them too much, or position was a bit off. As in the video, with AC on the vibrations were intolerable. When engine speed increased, as shown as well, it would be smooth. I had even one or two times ECU problem (some error) due to vibrations, so I decided to remove them after all.
Yet, I admit - it was great contact.
Did not completely solve wheel hop, but each shift and power delivery were great.

Now, on my Auto, the OEM must have soften a bit, as the shifts are not so stiff as used to be. I might be going back to the topic with some shaving now.
i read on VT where someone drilled some holes into the green ones and it supposedly got rid of some of the annoying vibration or in their words it was much better. i don't have a link to the thread at the moment but their discussion was similar to that effect.
 

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i read on VT where someone drilled some holes into the green ones and it supposedly got rid of some of the annoying vibration or in their words it was much better. i don't have a link to the thread at the moment but their discussion was similar to that effect.
With your handsome green bushings, what so far is your "air-conditioner" verdict?
 

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I have both of them... sitting now in a box.

If I was to put them on a scale, from 1 to 10, where 1 is soft, 10 is hard, and lets assume stock in 1, red is 10, green would come up about 7-8.
Red is not so much stiffer than green; however, green is much more stiff than OEM. I mean, OEM is soft as a sponge when taking them both into your palm.


Maybe I tightened them too much, or position was a bit off. As in the video, with AC on the vibrations were intolerable. When engine speed increased, as shown as well, it would be smooth. I had even one or two times ECU problem (some error) due to vibrations, so I decided to remove them after all.
Yet, I admit - it was great contact.
Did not completely solve wheel hop, but each shift and power delivery were great.

Now, on my Auto, the OEM must have soften a bit, as the shifts are not so stiff as used to be. I might be going back to the topic with some shaving now.
i read on VT where someone drilled some holes into the green ones and it supposedly got rid of some of the annoying vibration or in their words it was much better. i don't have a link to the thread at the moment but their discussion was similar to that effect.
A lot of people miss the part right in the description where it says they are oversized to minimize movement. All you'd have to do is shave it down to closer to the OEM size/shape to get rid of a lot of the extra vibes and still make a big difference.
 

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i read on VT where someone drilled some holes into the green ones and it supposedly got rid of some of the annoying vibration or in their words it was much better. i don't have a link to the thread at the moment but their discussion was similar to that effect.
Yep, he posted it #4... They definitely need to be shaved down to eliminate excess vibe as they come oversized for max control but you still have the option to shave them down too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
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perfect thanks!



i haven't used the A/C yet mostly a windows down guy but man that idle vibe can be a little something in my legs especially haha
Well turn your air-conditioner on for a few minutes and give us a report on vibrations (increase/minus) at idle, cruising speed, surface streets and acceleration.
I want to install these, but not the harder red ones, but I like the smoothness of the stock set up; but would sacrifice some NVH.
 

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perfect thanks!



i haven't used the A/C yet mostly a windows down guy but man that idle vibe can be a little something in my legs especially haha
Well turn your air-conditioner on for a few minutes and give us a report on vibrations (increase/minus) at idle, cruising speed, surface streets and acceleration.
I want to install these, but not the harder red ones, but I like the smoothness of the stock set up; but would sacrifice some NVH.
Thanks for all the help and input guys, this will all help me a lot when I get around to do this... I'm thinking of doing the following and calling it good: rear sway bar, front strut bar, Tork collars and these engine mount bushings... I think that's the best combination of bang for the buck without going too cheap and doing too little to help with the handling and driving enjoyment.
 

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Thanks for all the help and input guys, this will all help me a lot when I get around to do this... I'm thinking of doing the following and calling it good: rear sway bar, front strut bar, Tork collars and these engine mount bushings... I think that's the best combination of bang for the buck without going too cheap and doing too little to help with the handling and driving enjoyment.
Danbefree - you'd be churlish to withhold installing the front sway bar frame bushings for the $20 out of pocket. Just a socket and/or wrench to do the install. I've asked a friend to give me a hand so I can get in a complete photo shoot. Don't ignore it if you want handling improvements.
 

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Danbefree - you'd be churlish to withhold installing the front sway bar frame bushings for the $20 out of pocket. Just a socket and/or wrench to do the install. I've asked a friend to give me a hand so I can get in a complete photo shoot. Don't ignore it if you want handling improvements.
Well, I probably WOULD be churlish if I had even heard of this before, so thanks for mentioning this! :) It's just this board just doesn't have enough active members to keep the important things floating to the top, I'd heard of replacement sway bars and front strut tower bars but not upgraded bushings for the front sway bars... I think that would ESPECIALLY be helpful since I seem to feel all the imperfections in the road through the floorboards while taking long curves... Do you have a link to where to order them from?
 

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Well, I probably WOULD be churlish if I had even heard of this before, so thanks for mentioning this! :) It's just this board just doesn't have enough active members to keep the important things floating to the top, I'd heard of replacement sway bars and front strut tower bars but not upgraded bushings for the front sway bars... I think that would ESPECIALLY be helpful since I seem to feel all the imperfections in the road through the floorboards while taking long curves... Do you have a link to where to order them from?
You can order EnergySuspension Part# 9.5159R (red/greasable) (or black) and thank playingwithmymind for these photos (which I post again assuming his permission). Amazonicus has them incidentally if you dont' have a local or convenient retailer. You can also get the kit without the zerk fitting.
OR you can wait until I get the "smaller profile" Prothane bushings (same 23mm size, just smaller brackets) and do an install photo shoot as my friend invites me to his garage. Frame bushing1.jpg Frame Bushing2.jpg OEM bushing.jpg

I'll need compelling PROOF that the strut tower bars keep the frame of the car from flexing OR they keep the struts from deflecting before I install anything like that.
 

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You can order EnergySuspension Part# 9.5159R (red/greasable) (or black) and thank playingwithmymind for these photos (which I post again assuming his permission). Amazonicus has them incidentally if you dont' have a local or convenient retailer. You can also get the kit without the zerk fitting.
OR you can wait until I get the "smaller profile" Prothane bushings (same 23mm size, just smaller brackets) and do an install photo shoot as my friend invites me to his garage

I'll need compelling PROOF that the strut tower bars keep the frame of the car from flexing OR they keep the struts from deflecting before I install anything like that.
Thanks for the info! The strut tower bar post has a video that shows how it keeps the the strut towers from flexing, keeping more pressure on the tires during cornering... I did one almost 20 years ago on my Talon (first ever eBay purchase) and it helped a lot with front flex during cornering, but that was a lot cheaper at the time too, but in any case it was a quick and easy way to improve turn in response, well worth it!

Edit: Found the Energy Suspension 9.5159R on Amazon for only $20 Prime, thanks!
 
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