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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just thought I would toss this out there, that after a couple months with the install of the 65a bushings my car overheated. I found that the fan had came unplugged to I plugged it back in. Car is fine had her up to about 250 F. Car was fine for about a month then did this again and again I never got it as hot as 250 again because I watch it a lot more but still wtf. It keeps coming unclipped and I'm sure its all the way plugged back in.

Has anyone else had these issues?

I must add to that I almost never run the ac but that's the only time it over heats. Then it vibrates so much with the ac the fan vibrates loose.
Now I have a zip tie holding the plug tight but I just hate rigging it like that.

Any thoughts or talk?
 

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I agree to the vibration. That's why I decided to go back to OEM. Summer is very hot and A/C is quite often in use. I hated the very bad vibration. I could hear the bumper cover rattling.
However, the fan never got disconnected. They should have clips locking the connectors together so that they will not undo themselves. Are those broken?

Slight tap on gas would make it go away, but I am not going to do that... Besides, it did not cure the wheel hop. It was better, but not as smooth as I was hoping for. It was still bouncing.
Besides, traction is pretty good and 1st gear so short that any burnouts end quickly. So I simply gave up on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The clip is still good, I never had taken it off to begin with but when it clicks its pretty weak. I just cant bring myself to drive it with those stock bushings but that's just me. however up in Minnesota I don't usually need to use the ac ever so idc but hey..
 

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I have the 65a and 75a bushings and have never had any issues with them. Seems like they didn't plug the fan in good enough from the factory. I do agree that the bushings make the a/c more known but I always say you have to pay to play!
 

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What do you think would happen if you just installed only one of the bushings (RED 75a) on the dog-leg side and left the stock BLK rubber mount on the frame side?
I would think it should minimize vibration to the frame and take-out some slop out of the engine movement.
What do you guys think?
 

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What do you think would happen if you just installed only one of the bushings (RED 75a) on the dog-leg side and left the stock BLK rubber mount on the frame side?
I would think it should minimize vibration to the frame and take-out some slop out of the engine movement.
What do you guys think?
You know, I thought about it. However, the problem is that the engine moves a lot and I was not able to definitely tell what would be its resting position when running. I did not take the time to play with it. I just wanted the rattling dash, the rattling bumper gone from my life.

But, I will give it a try when I get few hours.
 

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You know, I thought about it. However, the problem is that the engine moves a lot and I was not able to definitely tell what would be its resting position when running. I did not take the time to play with it. I just wanted the rattling dash, the rattling bumper gone from my life.

But, I will give it a try when I get few hours.
I think I'm going to try that at my next oil change and see what happens. I hate all the engine movement if that just takes a-little out of it I'll be happy with that.
With the A/T I notice a-lot of movement.
I have a couple of weeks before the change.
Thx
 

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With the A/T I notice a-lot of movement.
With M/T it is much more. Especially between shifts or when you are in 2nd gear and drop speed.

So, what I was thinking. The way the mount is designed, the engine pushes on both pieces regardless of a situation. I am not so sure which one is more crucial in this movement.
 

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I did exactly that - makes a big difference. One other tip, shave the green bushing to get it closer to the shape of the stock one - it makes a HUGE difference. Good luck!
 

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I did exactly that - makes a big difference. One other tip, shave the green bushing to get it closer to the shape of the stock one - it makes a HUGE difference. Good luck!
So you are saying that one part is green, another stock soft. With this setup it is smooth at idle, but wheel hop is "fixed".

Which one is which?
 

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One other tip, shave the green bushing to get it closer to the shape of the stock one - it makes a HUGE difference. Good luck!
It clearly says in the description that they are oversized to minimize vibrations... TexH is right, all you have to do is shave them down a bit closer to the stock size to eliminate a lot of the idle shaking.
 

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I have the 65a set on. Vibrations with a/c on are not bad when car is cold. But in warm start up it's violent. I also get the same amount of vibration from unlocking the doors, when the Auto up windows stop etc. So if you guys notice this as well there maybe something else wrong. I personally think it's one if two things. A bad battery (or cell) or the alternator (the smart programming specifically). When cold the voltage is at 13.6 ish, but once warned up voltage it's at 12.8 which is the rating voltage if the battery. This is tested with a dvom at the battery terminals. Battery has treated good (when cold) and is actually above rates cca.

But I also added the 75a bushings to my wife's sxt optima. Her's idles a bit rough but not nearly as bad and it's an auto with the a/c on. Her voltage cold is the same 13.x when cold, have checked hot. But before the bushing install she had a similar issue where once the computer would kick on it would drag the idle down and shake in the same violent manner as my forte for a brief second. Same with the windows and door locks. A few months later battery died and has been good ever since. So just some food for though. I am hoping to replace my battery soon and I'll try to update you guys when I get that done if the vibrations changed.
 

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As per shaving - I must have missed that earlier when I was doing them. I might give it a try, as the OEM soften a bit by now.

Regarding the locking doors - I get the same, but I do not think that is related to problems. Turn any load and the engine will "struggle" for a moment. Add rear defroster or turn hazards on, or even flash high beams. It puts load on the battery which then requests load from alternator that in turn put a load on the engine and ECU must adjust fuel/air (TPS to be exact) to keep idle speed at set point. Normal.

There is no vibrations on cold, because engine is running on higher speed. Once it drops, it shakes.
 

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I disagree that it's normal. I am not taking about fast idle up warn the car up. I am taking about how when you turn the car over in a hot start. I can then drive on the highway and the symptom lessens. Hence why I think it's battery reserve related. Also if normal why did a new battery fix the issue on my wife's car. The battery is supposed to work as a giant capacitor. Heat can kill a battery and sometimes will you get a short over 1 or more cells only when it's hot... or cold
 

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I am taking about how when you turn the car over in a hot start. I can then drive on the highway and the symptom lessens.
you are saying it idles under load, like recharging battery after start?
I mean, it would make sense, because you put load on the battery and it wants to be recharged. You can test the battery capacity, if you will.

I do not know how heavy load it is on your car. Maybe there is something wrong with your battery after all.

However,
Heat can kill a battery and sometimes will you get a short over 1 or more cells only when it's hot... or cold
one cell is 2.1 V (theoretical, fully charged). You got 6 cells. Total of 12.6 V (for lead acid batteries)
With one cell shorted or dead, you get 10.5 V. Car will not start.
You may have some electron leakage, such as plates are so close they discharge a bit faster, but that is not a short yet.

If you really want to test it, get an amp meter and monitor discharge and charge on the battery (or rather from the alternator as if plugged into battery it could fry when starter is activated - starter I think is 800 Wm hence you are talking about 60 A or even more for a short period of time).
Measuring instrument Font Auto part Circle Composite material
 

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I ONLY installed the bushing on one side. No vibration, with A/C on many just a tiny bit at idle.
 

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Crazy how everyone has these bad vibrations when I haven't had this issue. How many miles are you guys running them before pulling them? I noticed that they need to break in and my vibrations went way down.
 
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