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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not sure if anyone else notices this. But when I'm on the freeway (approx 70mph) and traffic stops without warning and I hit the brakes, the car pulls right. If I had to guess I'd guess its the pass rear brakes is hitting harder. Which is the caliper that technically should be less than the rest... Anyone else?
 

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I'm not sure if anyone else notices this. But when I'm on the freeway (approx 70mph) and traffic stops without warning and I hit the brakes, the car pulls right. If I had to guess I'd guess its the pass rear brakes is hitting harder. Which is the caliper that technically should be less than the rest... Anyone else?
Multiple factors involved here, pitch of the road, rear alignment, do you feel it in the steering or does it just drift right without the steering being affected? If the right rear has less toe setting than the left it will pull the whole car to the right (common to happen after hitting a pot hole) a bad caliper usually but not always will lock up or activate the ABS which you would most likely here and feel. The crown of the road will also have affect, alignment is preset to pull the car towards the shoulder of the road under extreme breaking and how hard it will pull depends on how steep the crown is. On a 4 lane highway using the left lane or left side of crown will negate the pull and allow you to stop straight. Perfectly flat surface will still drift 6" every 25' and isn't noticeable in everyday commutes. The front alignment will also affect pulling while breaking with no real affect on the steering, this doesn't happen much from toe but from hitting a pot hole for example and slightly bending the lower A-arm enough to affect caster but nothing else. Not enough to show a problem while driving but will be prevalent while it has the pressure from breaking force against it.
Try this go about 10 MPH on a somewhat lvl surface and let go of the steering and pull up slowly on the E-brake and see if it continues in the same path or you see the steering turn. If steering turns I would look more at rear alignment (E-brake is not fluid controlled or abs controlled and applies even force to both sides). Then do the same with light pressure on the brake pedal (light pressure will only use front brakes) if it still goes straight try a little more pressure that should tell if it is front or rear alignment or caliper.
 

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Brake assist Yo.. hold steering wheel perfectly straight without any torque on the wheel and try again..I discovered the brake assist the hard and scary way
 

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I have experienced the same issue when hard braking. My car is about a month or two old so I will check for any of the things above. Is it normal for this at this new?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So...
With just the "E"-brake- straight as an arrow
With "E"-brake and sliiight brake pedal-right turn clide (not dramatic but still) it pulls right. Id say lane change in 1/8 ish mile pull
And what do you mean brake assist???
 

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Did you do light pressure no E-brake? Since iy didn't pull with E-brake that pretty much eliminates rear alignment and calipers. Now just need to determine if it is alignment or right front brake. So now do 15 mph and do a normal stop and a panic stop and see if the harder you push the more it pulls. If it does it would be front right brake but doesn't condemn the caliper and may just be glazed rotor and pad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I did like enough pressure to turn brake lights on+ "E"brake. Thats it.

ps, I hate the term "emergency" brake. Maybe in 1966 it was a last ditch effort brake, but I dare someone to pull that hard doing 65+
 

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Dude no.. I am 90% sure you're just feeling the effects of brake assist.. if you brake hard at high speed the car will apply extra pressure to get you stopped faster. Now if your steering wheel is not perfectly straight it will have a pull on it. Check out a google search on brake assist and you will find others feeling the same thing.
 

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Dude no.. I am 90% sure you're just feeling the effects of brake assist.. if you brake hard at high speed the car will apply extra pressure to get you stopped faster. Now if your steering wheel is not perfectly straight it will have a pull on it. Check out a google search on brake assist and you will find others feeling the same thing.
He is pulling to the right with just light pressure not just high speeds and heavy braking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Now, after the accident I swear the right rear tire locked up the other day in traffic. ABS didn't kick on or anything...
 

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Now, after the accident I swear the right rear tire locked up the other day in traffic. ABS didn't kick on or anything...
Take it back and tell them whats been happening since the accident. Sounds like your ABS module might be messed up and is locking the brake up on that one side
 

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Just want to add that brakes,clutch and other wear items are covered 12/12000 . So if it's under that it should be covered by warranty even if it's a wear item. The accident may complicate things though
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update.... Car still pulls, and is getting worse. Stealer ship had my car 2 days and didn't find anything so I jacked up the rear, and spun the tires by hand
RR tire spun decent, LR spun around a few times and stopped... Car is pulling to right so my thought is...LR caliper is sticking and so the brakes are getting hot and fading but the right side brakes aren't. So the right side has 100% stopping power where as the left side only has 50%....
Thoughts?
Oh and they blamed the evilla rear brace even though I told them about this almost 8 monthes before getting the brace... Idiots
 

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I will chime in here.

How are the front ones? Do they spin easily?
As for your thoughts if they are correct - hard to say, but generally yes - fading is a killer. Yet, they would be smoking hot after such trip. Especially in Phoenix area.

Since you say ABS has issues, did you test it? If not, take the car to a dirt road. I bet you have plenty of nice, flat, sand covered roads in AZ. Take the car to about 30 MPH, slam the brakes. See what happens. Then do 40 MPH and start pushing brake pedal harder and harder until, even when the wheels start locking keep pushing to see if ABS is fully functional.

Pulling - I am not sure if this was covered. I do not recall if yours is AT, but what gear you are in? Did you try same test of sudden braking in neutral so that powertrain is excluded? Finally, do one more thing - pump the brake twice before hitting it hard.

I am just trying to exclude things here...
 

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The sad reality is the rear on these cars all non multi link rear Kia and Hyundai the ladder frame is very weak and loose . A mild good fix is a rear sway bar . I complained about this once a on the first gen forte group and got flamed saying I was a bad driver . Bs the car design lacks a rear support system . Dodge uses a watts system and their older pan hard . Both systems work well . I'm planning to create a watts system for mine in the future when time and money become available in the same time lmao ! So order a rear sway/torsion bar and your problem will go away .
 

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knock on wood.... i must either not beat on my car enough or i got a real gem with 0 issues... only issue was the original tail light issue back in the day...

although my passenger side mirror is starting to make sounds when unfolding that it is rubbing plastic
 

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knock on wood.... i must either not beat on my car enough or i got a real gem with 0 issues... only issue was the original tail light issue back in the day...

although my passenger side mirror is starting to make sounds when unfolding that it is rubbing plastic
That was yours 999 post :)

I also have no problems with pulling... so different design between years again?
Plus, torsion beam is not so bad. It is light and stiff (in turns).
 

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there does seem to be a hyundai TSB lurking around about axle nuts not being properly torqued.... im wondering if that has ventured to the koup/5's
 
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