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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since winter will be coming, eventually, I was looking for winter wheels set.

After checking OEM rim (18x7.5 ET 55, 5x114.3) I found that many might fit: Mazda, Honda, KIA, Hyundai...

And I got one, in good condition that should fit: Mazda 3, 16x6.5, ET 52.5. All is great, clears the caliper, lug nuts stay same (no need to carry two sets), it will not poke out, except the fact it will not spin.
It holds on the brake bracket.

It needs maybe 2 mm material to go off to clear the rim and leave 1 mm clearance. Stupid design...
Again, that's just the bracket holding the pads. Caliper remains untouched. Just like in the picture here - the bracket sticks out beyond the plane of the rotor/hub.

Has anyone ever done it? Any ideas what to do?

brake bracket.jpg
 

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Completely against 17's?

I ran 205/50/17s on Mazda CX9 (steelies) rims (17x7) this winter without issues.

I know some people have run 16's though but with just barely 1 or 2 mm of space, I felt better with 17's.

But to answer your question simply shaving a bracket isn't going to do anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Completely against 17's?
Not completely. I was looking for more cushion for winter tires (potholes are bigger than cars :D here) and price. Tires due to low profile are more expensive than their replacement sizes in 16".
For example, I got a full set for my wife's Rondo, where OEM size is 225/50x17, of 205/70x15 with steelies for same price as tires only on 17"...

17 would be what? 205/50x17, right? 16" would be 205/60x16.
OEM is 9 cm profile, 17" would be 10 cm, 16 would be 12 cm.

That is my reasoning.

But to answer your question simply shaving a bracket isn't going to do anything.
You mean it is safe to do or will not work?
 

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Yeah I know the prices for 17's and up are signicantly greater than 15/16's which is unfortunate for us.

Potholes are ridiculous here too and I hit one big one that broke the hub cap I had on my winter wheels... All good cause I realized it looked better without them. I found the 17's were okay.

But what I meant to say was that if you're only planning to shave a mm or 2 mm off the bracket you won't have any problems.

5 mins with an angle grinder.

I've seen it done by people before without issues... More of a hack in my opinion and I would prefer 17's or different 16's.

Your other option is spacers but again that's something I'm not a fan of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Spacers - neither am I...

These 16" come with rubbers in very good condition and I can get them back to my local DiscountTire store for a credit towards new tires what makes the rim/wheels almost for free... about 20 a piece for silver 5-spoke 16" alloys.
Hence, I thought of grinding brackets.
 

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I use 16's on my SX for the winter. I got them from the dealer though.

I don't imagine it would hurt it to shave a few mm off, but its not necessary with the right rims..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I use 16's on my SX for the winter. I got them from the dealer though.

I don't imagine it would hurt it to shave a few mm off, but its not necessary with the right rims..
Dealer you say? How much was it then?

I am not really eager to do that, but I might. Eventually... if I do not find anything. The rims are just too good to pass (price wise).
 

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It was a 800$ condition of buying my car lol. 16" rims and studded tires. I think he said they were around 120$ each
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yeah, so I can get those rims for about 30 a piece, maybe even better if I sell tires they come with... or spend at least 200/set on steelies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What is more important in wheel selection? Flush with fenders, in other words to be as close with outer rim as OEM setup or keep the wheel center as close as OEM setup?

When putting 6.5 in place of 7.5 wide rim keeping same place of outside flush rim ridge, it will shift center of the wheel more towards outside. Will it cause more stress on wheels?
Or shall I rather look for wheels that will be more "inside" with rim's center in same spot as 7.5" OEM?

I just found two sets that might work and trying to decide which would be better.


OEM, again, is 7.5 with 55 offset
replacements:
16x6.5 ET 40
16x6.5 ET 46 (not sure if it clears the caliper though yet).
 

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I run 16" with just simple steelies. No need to buy alloys for the winter. I like those slotted rotors though.
I went with alloys for the winter :p I thought, if I am buying a brand new car in December, I don't want it to look old instantly with steel, so I paid 40$ extra per rim to make them fancy lol :)
And they will always look good unless I hit a curb....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I run 16" with just simple steelies. No need to buy alloys for the winter. I like those slotted rotors though.
I went with alloys for the winter :p I thought, if I am buying a brand new car in December, I don't want it to look old instantly with steel, so I paid 40$ extra per rim to make them fancy lol :)
Here is the deal. It is all about money...

A new steelie will cost me about 60 a piece. I might get the price down to maybe 50/piece. On top of that, if I time it correctly, I might get a rebate of 50 or so. That makes OTD say 150 for wheels. Steelies.

I can get the used alloys for 40 a piece. If I get them with decent tires, my local DT shop can take them in (not really buy them...) and apply a credit on my account towards purchase of a new product.
That could be up to a 50/tire. So, the set I was looking at was about 300 (16" wheels from Mazda with TOYO tires having about 90% thread). DT offered me 50/tire. That puts me with alloy wheels at 25/piece.

So, not only the price would be great, but also the wheels would be nicer.

On other cars (including the one I just sold to replace for Forte) were running alloy in summer, steel in winter. This is not a look, but cost priority.

And they will always look good unless I hit a curb....
And that's why they would be 16" equipped with 195/60x16 or 205/60x16 to give enough cushion for any curbs in winter time.
 
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