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book says - 3000 miles first change. Then every 5000 miles.

Some do 1000, 3000 and keep at 3000. Some follow the book... I guess it all depends what you do to your car.

I did 1500, 3000, and I will be keeping 5000. I did not tune, I rarely floor it.
 
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I did a spill and fill (left oil filter on) at 1000 miles with Penz Platinum 5-30. I'll do oil & filter at 3000 w same oil and an oe filter, then oil & filter every 3 - 4000 after that. I don't baby this car but don't floor it all the time either, hard charges off the light are a blast in this car! My main concern now is doing something about the oil getting in to the intake system. There was a lot of oil on the oe map sensor when I removed it to swap in the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks everyone. I want a catch-can next cuz I don't want grimey oil recirculating. Unbelievably I never did put a catchcan in my SRT4/ACR- never got around to it.!!
 

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book says - 3000 miles first change. Then every 5000 miles.

Some do 1000, 3000 and keep at 3000. Some follow the book... I guess it all depends what you do to your car.

I did 1500, 3000, and I will be keeping 5000. I did not tune, I rarely floor it.
I did a spill and fill (left oil filter on) at 1000 miles with Penz Platinum 5-30. I'll do oil & filter at 3000 w same oil and an oe filter, then oil & filter every 3 - 4000 after that. I don't baby this car but don't floor it all the time either, hard charges off the light are a blast in this car! My main concern now is doing something about the oil getting in to the intake system. There was a lot of oil on the oe map sensor when I removed it to swap in the new one.
So, when you guys say you don't floor it, does that mean less turbo blow-by, etc polluting the oil? I do like to floor it a bit but also get plenty of gentle miles on it to when I do Lyft at night... just did my first change at 1750, I wonder if the dealer will hold off on their "first oil change free" to 5000 miles with my oil change receipt. But my thinking was that with the initial factory oil I heard being conventional oil for break-in, I'd like to get it out sooner rather than later since I'm starting on some mild mods.
 

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So, when you guys say you don't floor it, does that mean less turbo blow-by, etc polluting the oil? I do like to floor it a bit but also get plenty of gentle miles on it to when I do Lyft at night... just did my first change at 1750, I wonder if the dealer will hold off on their "first oil change free" to 5000 miles with my oil change receipt. But my thinking was that with the initial factory oil I heard being conventional oil for break-in, I'd like to get it out sooner rather than later since I'm starting on some mild mods.
Good thing you did getting the original oil out. What oil & filter did you use? I'm just over 2k miles now and the motor is starting to loosen up. The change to the new map sensor really woke the motor up and I've been enjoying driving the car even more since that change. I've decided to do a full vta of the pcv system and I have already vented the air intake with a small filter and plugged the opening in the intake tube. Those two things will completely eliminate any oil and residue blowby from getting in to the intake system or to the valves. I got a quote for a complete mid pipe exhaust replacement so I can retain the stock pipe w the cat converter and resonator. I will leave the stock muffler in place for now.
 

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Good thing you did getting the original oil out. What oil & filter did you use? I'm just over 2k miles now and the motor is starting to loosen up. The change to the new map sensor really woke the motor up and I've been enjoying driving the car even more since that change. I've decided to do a full vta of the pcv system and I have already vented the air intake with a small filter and plugged the opening in the intake tube. Those two things will completely eliminate any oil and residue blowby from getting in to the intake system or to the valves. I got a quote for a complete mid pipe exhaust replacement so I can retain the stock pipe w the cat converter and resonator. I will leave the stock muffler in place for now.
Honestly, I have no idea what was used, I believe Pennzoil full synthetic and probably generic filter, but my dealer is also giving me my first oil change free and I had mine done at Sears with a Groupon (I know, don't judge, at least I paid for full synthetic) and I'll be doing my own after that now that I have a garage with our new rental house...

Anyway, tell me more about the new map sensor, do you mean MAF sensor? I didn't know there was an updated one available? Also, I thought the best way to go is new intake with catch can, can you tell me more about your plans? As far as the exhaust, I'm thinking of new midpipe myself, but need to stay on budget, so maybe just a 2nd cat delete and replacement muffler, keep stock res to keep sound down but still have a better flowing exhaust over stock.

Sorry, didn't mean to thread jack, feel free to PM me SXTurbo, to end I'll just say that I'm glad I got the original dino oil out when I did, I noticed my engine loosen up after 800-1000 miles too, so no need to keep it in there, but 3k as recommended won't "hurt" your motor either.
 

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Honestly, I have no idea what was used, I believe Pennzoil full synthetic and probably generic filter, but my dealer is also giving me my first oil change free and I had mine done at Sears with a Groupon (I know, don't judge, at least I paid for full synthetic) and I'll be doing my own after that now that I have a garage with our new rental house...
I hope the filter was a good quality one... and will not restrict flow or mess up something else.

Anyway, tell me more about the new map sensor, do you mean MAF sensor? I didn't know there was an updated one available? Also, I thought the best way to go is new intake with catch can, can you tell me more about your plans? As far as the exhaust, I'm thinking of new midpipe myself, but need to stay on budget, so maybe just a 2nd cat delete and replacement muffler, keep stock res to keep sound down but still have a better flowing exhaust over stock.
http://www.forteturbo.org/forum/19-kia-forte-turbo-performance/2361-map-sensor-update.html

Look in this thread. Lots of reading, but majority good stuff.
It is still not quite clear if KIA wanted to issue update, but I believe all of the guys who changed it, are happy with the results.

It is MAP sensor, not MAF. We use MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure. If it was MAF - we could have more issues with tuning.


I'll just say that I'm glad I got the original dino oil out when I did, I noticed my engine loosen up after 800-1000 miles too, so no need to keep it in there, but 3k as recommended won't "hurt" your motor either.

Original dyno is for a reason. Engine break in is better done when doing it with dyno.
 
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Honestly, I have no idea what was used, I believe Pennzoil full synthetic and probably generic filter, but my dealer is also giving me my first oil change free and I had mine done at Sears with a Groupon (I know, don't judge, at least I paid for full synthetic) and I'll be doing my own after that now that I have a garage with our new rental house...

Anyway, tell me more about the new map sensor, do you mean MAF sensor? I didn't know there was an updated one available? Also, I thought the best way to go is new intake with catch can, can you tell me more about your plans? As far as the exhaust, I'm thinking of new midpipe myself, but need to stay on budget, so maybe just a 2nd cat delete and replacement muffler, keep stock res to keep sound down but still have a better flowing exhaust over stock.

Sorry, didn't mean to thread jack, feel free to PM me SXTurbo, to end I'll just say that I'm glad I got the original dino oil out when I did, I noticed my engine loosen up after 800-1000 miles too, so no need to keep it in there, but 3k as recommended won't "hurt" your motor either.
Here's the map sensor thread: http://www.forteturbo.org/forum/19-kia-forte-turbo-performance/2361-map-sensor-update.html

I personally wouldn't use a non oe oil filter, we have 3 cars that take the same oil filter and I like the quality of Kia/Hyundai oil filters. I'm also a stickler for using the recommended spec for oil, in this case 5-30 or 5-40 ACEA A5 rated oil. I know others might disagree but that's just how I do things. I have read endless threads on oil catch cans and I will not use one. I don't believe they get all the blow by out of the system which is the main culprit with carbon deposits on the valves. I also don't like the oil I found all over the map sensor when I removed the oe one. So by venting the pcv and fresh air lines from the valve cover I will eliminate any possibility of that blow by getting in to the intake system completely. As far as the exhaust system goes I have 2 ideas. One is to just gut the second cat and run it that way. The second idea is to spend $250.00 and get the custom bolt in mid pipe, still not sure which way I'm gonna go. I'm happy w the way the car runs now w the minor changes I've made. My oil & filter change plans will be oil drain every 3k miles w the filter changed every other time. I am using Pennz Platinum 5-30 which is ACEA A5 rated.
 

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Here's the map sensor thread: http://www.forteturbo.org/forum/19-kia-forte-turbo-performance/2361-map-sensor-update.html

I personally wouldn't use a non oe oil filter, we have 3 cars that take the same oil filter and I like the quality of Kia/Hyundai oil filters. I'm also a stickler for using the recommended spec for oil, in this case 5-30 or 5-40 ACEA A5 rated oil. I know others might disagree but that's just how I do things. I have read endless threads on oil catch cans and I will not use one. I don't believe they get all the blow by out of the system which is the main culprit with carbon deposits on the valves. I also don't like the oil I found all over the map sensor when I removed the oe one. So by venting the pcv and fresh air lines from the valve cover I will eliminate any possibility of that blow by getting in to the intake system completely. As far as the exhaust system goes I have 2 ideas. One is to just gut the second cat and run it that way. The second idea is to spend $250.00 and get the custom bolt in mid pipe, still not sure which way I'm gonna go. I'm happy w the way the car runs now w the minor changes I've made. My oil & filter change plans will be oil drain every 3k miles w the filter changed every other time. I am using Pennz Platinum 5-30 which is ACEA A5 rated.
Ya, I know all about the oil ratings, I have had turbo cars before and am a stickler there myself. I was pleasantly surprised that the Sears guy actually made sure to look up the proper weight and rating... Since I'll be doing my own changes next, I'll make sure to use the Hyundai/Kia filter just to be safe, I'm sure they can found cheap enough online.

Now, to check into this MAP sensor thing, I'll read more after work but I don't want to lower my boost, I just don't want the stuttering accelerating out of low RPM's, and not sure if I should ask the dealer for any ECU updates or anything if it's going to lower my boost/power down to 180HP... but again, I'll have to read more later, I see there is 8 pages on that...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What do those KIA filters do or have that a premium FRAM (not that orange piece of sh**) or MOBIL 1 might be lacking?
 

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What do those KIA filters do or have that a premium FRAM (not that orange piece of sh**) or MOBIL 1 might be lacking?
are about the same price if you buy them online in packs of 10 and come with crush washers.
at this price why change up what came with your car when you first bought it?
 

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What do those KIA filters do or have that a premium FRAM (not that orange piece of sh**) or MOBIL 1 might be lacking?
From what I've read and experienced the oe KIa/Hyundai filters have a better oil flow rate then aftermarket filters. Our third car is a 2007 Hyundai Sonata with 107k miles on it. I've done every single oil & filter change on that car from the day we picked it up brand new. I tried a few different oil filters over the years and all but a Wix filter produced start up rattle. We now have 3 cars that all use the same oil filters and the same oil. I buy the filters online in packs of 3 with the drain plug washers for $22.00. The motor on our 07 Sonata is dead quiet and has been the most reliable car we have ever owned, only back to the dealer one time for a brake light switch recall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
are about the same price if you buy them online in packs of 10 and come with crush washers.
at this price why change up what came with your car when you first bought it?
Is the filtration media in the KIA OEM paper or synthetic? The price is not a significant factor for me, but nothing wrong with being thrifty as the situation allows. I want to use the FRAM Ultra Synthetic filter (bearing in mind I DESPISE the orange frams) so I would change from OEM to the FRAM if better filtration and longer oil life occurred.
I won't use cheap-o price point filters on my KOUP. We are going to "loosen" the oil filter today, from factory overtight (so I can change the break-in oil without cursing) when we install the rigid collar bolts and speaker install. I'll post photos.
 

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Is the filtration media in the KIA OEM paper or synthetic? The price is not a significant factor for me, but nothing wrong with being thrifty as the situation allows. I want to use the FRAM Ultra Synthetic filter (bearing in mind I DESPISE the orange frams) so I would change from OEM to the FRAM if better filtration and longer oil life occurred.
I won't use cheap-o price point filters on my KOUP. We are going to "loosen" the oil filter today, from factory overtight (so I can change the break-in oil without cursing) when we install the rigid collar bolts and speaker install. I'll post photos.
It's all about correct oil flow with the oe filters. I tried a Fram Ultra, the sonata knocked heavily on cold start up. How many miles on your car and what oil are you using? I'm interested in seeing how the rigid collar installation goes and what you notice from them.
 

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actually i paid $44.50 shipped for a 10 pack of hyundai/kia filters with crush washers. that is $4.50 a filter and am willing to bet is cheaper than any walmart or autozone.
the oil flow is also a consideration which can have an effect on cars. the original filters are very well made in quality.
 
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