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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I will put in as much as I can remember. I planned on just removing the bracket and pulling the IC forward......but I dropped my 10mm socket... so I had to pull the bumper. Knowing what both ways entail; I like the removal of the bumper as opposed to prying on the IC. Ok let's see if I can get the point across with these pictures.

Ok so to start off I removed the four screws that attach to the plastic shroud/ top of bumper.
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Once those screws are out you can pull up on the shroud and expose the IC Top Mount Bracket Screws. Take these out.
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It was at this point that I dropped my 10mm and had to remove the bumper, but now you can remove the cold side of the IC. Move it out of the way and you can pry out on the IC and jimmy a nut driver with a swivel and a 10mm socket in and remove the rear bolt.
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These are the only helpful photos I have but if anyone has anything to add feel free. I wanted to start this thread so people aren't going into this mod blind.

Notes:

Back bolt on BOV is difficult to reach even after freeing the top of the IC.

There really isn't clearance but it I did manage to get the top mounting plate back on with some torque.

Bumper removal is IMHO a better method.

You have to unscrew the top of the new BOV and rotate it 90° counterclockwise from its original position. Make sure you have metric Allen Keys.

The stock vacuum tube was too short and I had to use the tube they sent.

The male end on the BOV is larger than the stock vacuum tube.

Tools:

Philips head screw driver
10mm socket
Nut driver
Socket wrench
Swivel head

I hope this helps. Have fun modding.
 
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just installed mine and was hoping for some tips...

Before I go in, can you share a pic of your final setup with all hoses? since the male end is larger, the stock hose didnt fit. I have a larger hose but then the stock clamps don't fit. I tried some clamps and none worked, will try again tomorrow but the fact that the ends are two different sizes is a bit of a pain. How did you do it?

1) the hood latch, I had to remove it as I didnt want to remove the bumper. Once I installed everything, I noticed the cable was significantly more loose than before....how can I adjust this?

2) I had a hard time tightening the rear bolt with any kind of torque I finger snugged the back, and tightened up the front two, is that ok? Guess I can take it all apart again to check it out if not.

3) So I unplugged the map sensor to make sure I didnt pull on it and I started the engine with my Ultraguage in and the sensor still unplugged. Got the P0237 code....I disconnected the battery and tried again after half an hr and it was still there and the car was running rough. I ended up shutting the car off, plugging the ultraguage back in , andut the restarting it and the code cleared on its own.

I WAS RELIEVED but then had to drive it in order to hear if it was working to release boost. Everytime I revved up , the Ultraguage shot an alarm for the same trouble code though the car was good. I disconnected it and continued driving for about a 1/4 mile. Sounds good, no CEL....
do you think I'm ok and should ignore the ultraguage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1) I didn't remove the hood latch. My fit is very snug.
2)My suggestion would be a swivel head for your nut driver and you can get it good and tight. I couldn't get anything straight in to the back bolt. I ended up removing my bumper in the end so the bolt ended up being easy to reach. Swivel and you are gold.

3) I have not the expertise to help you with this one my friend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I never removed the hood latch, but I did remove the bumper. The complication was it was very snug fit and therefore I was only able to get one bolt into the intercooler to the cross beam. The other hole I used a ziptie

Instagram @darth_forte
It took some prying but I got both bolts back into the IC mount. There will be tension on the new BOV no matter what. It doesn't truly fit.
 

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It took some prying but I got both bolts back into the IC mount.
Suggestion, you might add it in your write up.

When you remove the top mount, instead of prying on the IC, pull it up to remove it from the bottom mount and then you can move the whole unit more into the engine bay. If you want to go all the way, disconnect the bottom pipe as well. Then moving the IC becomes much easier.
 
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It took some prying but I got both bolts back into the IC mount. There will be tension on the new BOV no matter what. It doesn't truly fit.
I noticed this as well. I'm wondering if it would be possible to machine a lower profile "sound plate". Since the plate would technically only need to flow up from the intercooler, and not out like stock, I wonder if it would give us the few fractions of an inch to be able to have more fitment for the turboxs.

I may be looking into this soon, as I have a mill I can play with
 

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Well I installed the GFB DVX BOV today. It was a bit of a pain, and I'm not overly happy with the finished project. 2018 Forte5 SX 1.6t.

Two things: First, I'm not sure I lined up the air channels correctly. There was only one way this thing was going in. Because it installs just below a rail and the only way it fits beneath the rails is with the vacuum barb pointed at and getting in the way of the boost pressure sensor. So I think I have the air channels lined up right, but I'm not positive.

Second, I had to flip the sensor and re-route the wire harness. It's a little tight but not pulled taut. Not sure how I feel about this.

Anyway I removed the bumper which was easy enough. Then I removed the air box. Then I removed the factory valve. One bolt had to be accessed from the front with a 10mm wrench. The other two I was able to get a socket on as they're underneath the air duct.

Now the hard part. I tried to slide the DVX BOV onto the factory lower section. Things are very tight. The framing that the air duct screws into allowed only one direction for the BOV to be installed. I loosened the hood latch cable bracket and that made it easier to slide the BOV underneath the framing. Got all three factory bolts started and snugged them down. Removing the intercooler air duct (just two bolts) made the removal and install of the front bolt possible.

From there it was just a process of putting the air box back on, and the bumper back on. The air duct won't slide into place unless the bias on the BOV is 75-100% open.

Photos to follow.
 
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