Thank for letting me know about the downpipe. It looks like a pain to remove. I hope to start working on that in the next couple months.I don't mind buying parts that are usable in other projects like this controller or the boost gauge I'm not going to use now if the Greddy works, but buying car specific things that are by chance it might fit I will shy away from. The rotors for instance I don't mind buying those, I already went to the parts store bought a stock rotor put it on then returned it so I now know the drilled will fit. The Greddy if by chance it doesn't work, I go to the track for test and tune once a month with the owner of that Camaro I posted, so finding a home for that will be easy too. Just for future reference the down pipe for the VT doesn't fit, I tried a stock DP when I was putting factory exhaust back on and it had a different angle coming off of the turbo. My custom exhaust broke after hitting a Goodyear Gator on I4 at 80 mph. Broke 3 welds and 2 mounts luckily that was it other than a few black scuff marks underneath.
If the ECU uses the solenoid for the BOV to help regulate boost pressure WITH the wastegate, that is something I've never seen before.So I hooked a vacuum and boost gauge (not a in dash gauge its more for diagnostics and more accurate) to the vacuum port for the BOV just to find out that little chamber never gets boost pressure (kind of like the vacuum pods gm cars used for ac vents in older models). As I was driving normal head out the window panting I could hear what sounded like the BOV open losing all the boost so I stop and put the gauge on the other side of the ecu controlled valve to see that it was in fact dumping boost and under medium throttle was also releasing boost so even with a separate boost controller you will still need to fix this BOV issue. I'm not an expert on ecu controlled boost but does this sound right?
That's interesting, but makes sense.What would happen if after we get the adapter under the map sensor in place we use one of those ports to feed the solenoid instead of the constant vacuum it is using now? That would disable the ecu from being able to release the pressure while boost is present and throttle is open once closed it should automatically pull vacuum and dump the boost that is still present opposite the throttle plate it would sort of be like bypassing it without setting a CEL. Just for kicks I'll give it a try tomorrow.
I did check one more thing, I have 2 map sensors I took and read the data for those under normal driving. Intake pressure which is measured at the top of the intercooler and boost/vacuum which is what is measured on the actual intake manifold. So while I am driving the boost data shows a vacuum and intake pressure will be 2-4 lb (intake pressure never goes into a vacuum reading). Guess my question now is even with a manual BOV would it still blow off under the lower boost pressures if there is a vacuum present in the intake?
according to all the logs ive taken, i get full 16-17 psi of boot from full throttle @ 3000=3500 rpm and then when 4000-4500 comes it just dies all the way down to 10 psi by redline.Next test, I want to see what the ECU does if you maintain a constant 16 psi while leaving the factory EBC connected allowing it to increase the boost to 18-19 psi. My idea if it works will benefit the cars mid range power more by preventing the drop of boost pressure between 3500 and 4500 rpm.
This is what I ordered with the tuning kit to adjust pressure more precise.
Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication
Let me know what you think, am I wasting my time or is this a good idea?