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Discussion Starter · #282 ·
OK, I admit, I do not have experience with dynos and how they are operated. I know what they are and how they work, yet operation of it is, as I see, more user dependent so one can't really compare two separate graphs. If one was to add TPS into the graph, that would aid in reasoning when we gain or where we lose (loose? I am always confused with these two - ESL).
I wish we could add TPS to a dyno graph, but since we can't I'm just going to say that there is a equal chance of the engine producing less torque at the range in question on our dyno graphs for wide open throttle. I can't give an exact answer on part throttle because all of those ECU parameters are different. I can tell you the car is overall more powerful to drive.

How about filtration? Dust, dirt... You did not comment on that. I know for the fact that all high air flow air filters are not best for filtration comparing to stock solution. The last thing I want to happen, once I start going down this path (I knew it would happen...), is to ruin turbo and cylinders due to dirt particles passing through filter.
We use Spectre filters for our air filters currently. You can make your judgement on their filtration based on their data which you can see here:

9731 - Spectre , Air Filter 8.75 in Tall

High flow air filters flow more because there are larger holes in the fibers. That means smaller pieces of dirt can get in. Filter companies will advertise their filtration size (mostly in microns).
Air filters should be cleaned/replaced at their manufacturers suggested service intervals.

Regarding water - of course I am not talking about flooding filter with water, but when you have a box and twisted air flow that will "shake off" any large water droplets allowing only mist to get in. What I am thinking is this scenario: you drive normally through puddles, rain, and so on. Air filter gets wet, just like you said, and at some point you go WOT. Suddenly all water from the filter gets sucked in. I know that the OEM style paper filters can contain a lot of water, so if this got suddenly released, could cause issues... maybe or maybe not. Let me see (loud thinking) - at say 2000 RPM you actually have 1000 full cycles/minute, which makes - assumption - 1000 suctions of 1.6 L, 1600 L of air per minute (having turbo at say about 1.5 at 2000 RPM that would make 2400 L of air). Put it in one second time frame - 40 L of air, 16.7 cycles - I guess water content might be negligible for water lock purposes (sure it would hinder performance for a moment or two).
Any comment?
Unless the filter is submerged and the pull from the turbo can ingest liquid water, the air coming thru the filter will have a certain amount of moisture depending on the wetness of the filter. Think % humidity.
There will be water VAPOR, unless the filter is submerged. I have driven with this cold air intake for almost two years now, through multiple heavy downpours for extended time periods without issue.

If you are so concerned about the elements, get a short ram. You'll still get a great gain from stock. Simple answer.

Laminar flow - well, it happens that I had a few semesters on fluid mechanics... so I know what you are trying accomplish here. Smooth surface, resonator delete, less drastic turns. Did you ever measure simple pressure drop stock airbox vs SRI/CAI at different air flows - from idle to 100% WOT? Theory is one thing, calculations another, but many factors are still left out... Just an experiment. That would be a nice proof. Did you actually calculate Re for WOT at different engine speeds?
I never set up a test for that but it would be nice to know. Someone over on the Veloster forums did with just a stock tube. you can see that thread here:

Stock Intake Pressure Drop (aka restriction)

I've only done fluid evaluations for purposes of forum posts like the one you read earlier. If a project comes to that I'm more than willing if necessary.
Our kit is designed and based off fairly known and common principles for making more power. You listed some already! Smooth walls, smooth turns, larger piping etc.
Some of those principles and their derivation you saw in that other thread I linked earlier.

Turns out those principles worked in the big picture, as our parts make more power across the majority of the rpm band.

I hope this has addressed your questions :)
 

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Last week I broke my lower engine cover and had no choice to drive to work in a rain / freezing rain storm. My cold air intake was installed and I had no issues. The filter was still covered because the engine cover and wheel well are 2 separate covers. That said.... Everything down there was soaked!

AND

Wait For it...

No issues at all!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I must be tripping out, but I installed the 6th sri today. Not really noticing any power gains.. If anything I'm almost feeling a loss. The car doesn't seem to pull the same, just makes an absolute ton of noise.. I disconnected both battery terminals before the install,, figuring the install time would be long enough to reset the ecu.. Maybe it wasn't long enough,, ran it at varying speeds and rpms, a couple wot pulls and some highway km's,, slowly feels like it's getting better.. But still not gaining anything. I'm scheduled to do a muffler delete next weekend,, do these mods help each other ? Under the principle of more air in, more air out?
 

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Even though it is a performance mod it is not one that will be felt much in the butt dyno but is more of a supporting mod. If anything the suction noise makes you think you are pushing the throttle more than you actually are giving you the "loss of power" feeling. By data logging at a certain throttle percentage with both setups and comparing the load percentage and the change in how much faster the boost is available you would see the difference in numbers and why it is a good first mod.

Muffler delete is more for sound than performance if you are still running factory mid-pipe and downpipe. The first 2 items in line after the turbo are the biggest restrictions.
 

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I hear ya,, and you're right, the car does sound like it's working harder.. I'm not a gear head, just learning the ropes in turbo performance. Was reading about less back pressure helping the motor. Thus my muffler delete. Not looking to build a race car but I would like a little more oomph if you will..

That being said,, what should my next bang for buck mod be ? Car will have the axel back straight pipe and Sri.
Appreciating the advice, so thanks in advance.
 

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I hear ya,, and you're right, the car does sound like it's working harder.. I'm not a gear head, just learning the ropes in turbo performance. Was reading about less back pressure helping the motor. Thus my muffler delete. Not looking to build a race car but I would like a little more oomph if you will..

That being said,, what should my next bang for buck mod be ? Car will have the axel back straight pipe and Sri.
Appreciating the advice, so thanks in advance.
2nd ECU with a stage 1 tune, best bang for the buck.
 

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I hear ya,, and you're right, the car does sound like it's working harder.. I'm not a gear head, just learning the ropes in turbo performance. Was reading about less back pressure helping the motor. Thus my muffler delete. Not looking to build a race car but I would like a little more oomph if you will..

That being said,, what should my next bang for buck mod be ? Car will have the axel back straight pipe and Sri.
Appreciating the advice, so thanks in advance.
start on the exhaust. muffler delete for sound. getting rid of both cats for better performance. but if you got the money to spend i would highly recommend a tune. best bang for the buck no doubt. if you're looking for the oomph without getting to crazy with parts, get that tune for sure. my tune was MAYBE a 1/4 of the price of the parts i've spent on performance parts but you will not really notice them by doing one by one. get a tune first and than start adding some stuff. i would recommend getting rid of the cats in the exhaust first before getting tuned. but this all depends on how far you wanna go with beefing up your car. i'm fully bolted but i never really noticed much of a difference with just adding parts. i also thought i lost power with adding the intake. but again, NOTHING will give you that feeling like getting a tune. just my 2 pennies
 

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I hear ya,, and you're right, the car does sound like it's working harder.. I'm not a gear head, just learning the ropes in turbo performance. Was reading about less back pressure helping the motor. Thus my muffler delete. Not looking to build a race car but I would like a little more oomph if you will..

That being said,, what should my next bang for buck mod be ? Car will have the axel back straight pipe and Sri.
Appreciating the advice, so thanks in advance.
If you're taking it in to a shop to get exhaust work done ask them what it would cost to have from the flex pipe back all replaced. It should cost a ton more but should be more noticeable.
Of course then you won't have a muffler or resonator...
 

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If you're taking it in to a shop to get exhaust work done ask them what it would cost to have from the flex pipe back all replaced. It should cost a ton more but should be more noticeable.
Of course then you won't have a muffler or resonator...
Oh dear, what will the neighbors think !? Haha
My days of rumbling neighbourhoods with bad music and straight pipes are over..
Looks like I'm stuck here lol

Btw, does anyone else's 6th Sri sound like a industrial vacuum cleaner that transforms into a f35 jet at 3.5k ?
 

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Priced a second ecu at the stealership,, $1500.00 of my Canadian dollars. No Bueno loll
Order the second ECU from Tork Motorsports and you will have less than $1500 invested in a second ECU with a tune.
 

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Order the second ECU from Tork Motorsports and you will have less than $1500 invested in a second ECU with a tune.
So, what you're saying is,, I can get 2 ecu 's (one tuned/one stock) from tork for around $1500 ?
That's sounding pretty good..

Anyone dealt with lap3 uncle ? I know they don't yield the same gains as tork but it's tempting.
 

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6th Element Engineering Short Ram & Cold Air Intake Thread

So, what you're saying is,, I can get 2 ecu 's (one tuned/one stock) from tork for around $1500 ?
That's sounding pretty good..

Anyone dealt with lap3 uncle ? I know they don't yield the same gains as tork but it's tempting.
Don't get Lap3. Search here and the VT forum for more info on that.

Your in Toronto. So same boat as me.. Buy from TORK.. If your like me & wanting a tune on a spare ECU at least your only going carless once... Tune on a spare is $995.50USD and what ever it cost to ship there and back.
 

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I just want to say thanks to Mr. 6th for making a intake designed for our cars.

I am hoping this cures or mostly takes away the chop I have with this injen intake that I got. The injen is barely 3" more like 2.75 and I know that is way to small for this turbo
I also have the injen intake at the moment, did you notice it increase performance with the 3.5" after switching? Or would anyone obviously know it would be better?
 

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Discussion Starter · #297 ·
I also have the injen intake at the moment, did you notice it increase performance with the 3.5" after switching? Or would anyone obviously know it would be better?
I had the opportunity to swap our intake in place of a K&N one on the dyno last week when tuning a car. The K&N uses the same piping size as your injen.
The car picked up 8whp from 5000-6500 rpm from that change before we changed more values for the tune.
 

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Intake

I installed this the other day. Works great. I still need to tweak it a-bit more.
Car Vehicle Automotive design Motor vehicle Personal luxury car
 
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