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He means that in the factory intake piping it is designed to be a resonator also to keep it quiet. You will hear the sucking of the turbo and when at WOT the whistle from it. I also hope you reset the ECU when you did the install
I'd meaning taking the negative cable from the battery ecu resetx than yea other wise nope I don't know how to lol
 

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I'd meaning taking the negative cable from the battery ecu resetx than yea other wise nope I don't know how to lol
Yeah you can just do that. I usually take both battery cables off and lift up the ECU plugs and let it sit
 

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Yeah you can just do that. I usually take both battery cables off and lift up the ECU plugs and let it sit
LOL ok, got it thank you next time
 
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When I get a CAI I am definitely getting a waterproof cover to keep it easier to clean and avoid any danger of hydrolock...
Just to let everyone know, this filter pre-wrap file the Specter 9731 like a glove. Big ups to Caezar for taking the plunge and buying it first, although I was very close behind him, he was the trailblazer!

Airaid filter pre-wrap
 

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Just to let everyone know, this filter pre-wrap file the Specter 9731 like a glove. Big ups to Caezar for taking the plunge and buying it first, although I was very close behind him, he was the trailblazer!

Airaid filter pre-wrap
Why is that even necessary? I understand the CAI or SRI replaces the factory air box with the filter which over time gets dirty with grime and soot and whatever else the air passing through it. So with this pre-filter wrap, you're basically wrapping the cone filter with something which is porous but also providing longer life of the cone filter? I'm thinking of ordering a SRI but wasn't sure if these needed to be replaced like the factory filter. Not sure if all that makes complete sense.

Also does the SRI/CAI also act as the cabin air filter? I thought the stock setup provided both air for the engine as well as the air for the cabin.
 

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Both the pre filter and filter itself are washable. The cabin filter is behind the glove box and take about 5 min to change.
 

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Why is that even necessary? I understand the CAI or SRI replaces the factory air box with the filter which over time gets dirty with grime and soot and whatever else the air passing through it. So with this pre-filter wrap, you're basically wrapping the cone filter with something which is porous but also providing longer life of the cone filter? I'm thinking of ordering a SRI but wasn't sure if these needed to be replaced like the factory filter. Not sure if all that makes complete sense
The pre-wrap should extend the service interval of the filter. Every so often you are supposed to remove the filter, clean it out, and oil it.

Spectre Air Filter Cleaning
 

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Hey I'm new on the forum, not sure I'm searching in the right place, But I've ordered the 6th sri for my '16 5sx, this will be my first mod. It's on back order so I'm gathering as much info as possible. That being said,, venting the recirc to atmosphere,, Is it better to leave the recirc hose on wide open, put a small filter on the end or pull the hose off all together from the bpv ?
Also, are there any related problems ? If the induction system isn't getting that recirculated air will it bog or lag ? Or, does the increased air flow from the sri compensate for the missing recirc air ? Does the car lose boost because the bov/ recirc thing has a lack of back pressure due to the missing hose ?

Just want my car to run right and stay reliable.. It's my daily driver.
 

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Hey I'm new on the forum, not sure I'm searching in the right place, But I've ordered the 6th sri for my '16 5sx, this will be my first mod. It's on back order so I'm gathering as much info as possible. That being said,, venting the recirc to atmosphere,, Is it better to leave the recirc hose on wide open, put a small filter on the end or pull the hose off all together from the bpv ?
Also, are there any related problems ? If the induction system isn't getting that recirculated air will it bog or lag ? Or, does the increased air flow from the sri compensate for the missing recirc air ? Does the car lose boost because the bov/ recirc thing has a lack of back pressure due to the missing hose ?

Just want my car to run right and stay reliable.. It's my daily driver.
There are no side effects other than the audible suction sound of the intake and the release of air from the BPV.
Pulling the hose off completely is ideal or you can leave it on to lower the db of the blow off, definitely don't want a filter or any other restriction added.
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
What he said.

The recirculation valve is only there to keep air moving to protect your turbocharger. The air has to go somewhere so the factory will send the air back through the intake. We don't need to do that anymore so that is why you will hear your valve after you install our intake.

ABSOLUTELY DO NOT block airflow out of the valve in any way. That valve has to have air escape from it as easy as possible.
 

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I am sorry if it was already answered, but I am wondering... is really CAI or SRI any help?

Let me explain - the dyno graphs show overall power and torque increase. Page 1st of this thread.
However, and I might be uneducated here, I see the RED slope is steeper in the beginning and reaches max torque at lower RPM than green and blue.
That makes me think that despite the fact I can get more power, I have actually less power at lower RPM.

Does it make sense?

CAI - anyone having issues with water lock? It is low... very low. Sure, covered by the splash shield, but still water gets there. I just saw today everything wet after driving in heavy rain. Short Ram could be safer.
Another thing, how about air filtration? How dust tight are the filters comparing to OEM?

I understand need of mass flow, but I also am aware of dirt coming into my turbo and cylinders.
thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #274 ·
I am sorry if it was already answered, but I am wondering... is really CAI or SRI any help?

Let me explain - the dyno graphs show overall power and torque increase. Page 1st of this thread.
However, and I might be uneducated here, I see the RED slope is steeper in the beginning and reaches max torque at lower RPM than green and blue.
That makes me think that despite the fact I can get more power, I have actually less power at lower RPM.

Does it make sense?

CAI - anyone having issues with water lock? It is low... very low. Sure, covered by the splash shield, but still water gets there. I just saw today everything wet after driving in heavy rain. Short Ram could be safer.
Another thing, how about air filtration? How dust tight are the filters comparing to OEM?

I understand need of mass flow, but I also am aware of dirt coming into my turbo and cylinders.
thanks,
You are on the right track looking at the graphs but there is an exception. You are looking at dyno charts for wide open throttle and the dyno operator can start a run the exact same way everytime.

At that lower rpm (3000 rpm and lower), you are almost never at wide open throttle down there. We won't run a chassis dyno lower than that for safety reasons.
Also, for a true low rpm comparison, we would have to run those same PART-throttle conditions on the dyno at low rpm, but in my opinion there wouldn't be much difference.

As you can see in the graphs the the HP/TQ favors our new parts just after 3000 rpm @ wide open throttle (flooring the pedal).
When it comes to power and going faster overall, the more area under the curve you have the faster you go down the track.

I'm sure a lot of people here will attest to this, they will tell you the car picks up a noticeable power increase and the car gets a little more fun to drive.

I've made a long post over on the VT forums about turbo efficiency and intake systems. To sum it up, an intake system like ours allows the turbo to breath easier, and in turn it will make more power. You can see that post here:

Laminar flow discussion

As for water, when it's raining and you're driving with the CAI, the filter is going to get wet, no matter what. You could not drive thru a single puddle, and when you get home and pull the filter off it's going to be wet. A lot more wet than you think.
You will get into trouble when the filter gets SUBMERGED in water. At least 8" deep puddle you'd have to drive thru and do it slowly for that matter.

As for couplers, our silicone and t-bolt clamps create an air tight seal when installed properly.
 

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OK, I admit, I do not have experience with dynos and how they are operated. I know what they are and how they work, yet operation of it is, as I see, more user dependent so one can't really compare two separate graphs. If one was to add TPS into the graph, that would aid in reasoning when we gain or where we lose (loose? I am always confused with these two - ESL).


How about filtration? Dust, dirt... You did not comment on that. I know for the fact that all high air flow air filters are not best for filtration comparing to stock solution. The last thing I want to happen, once I start going down this path (I knew it would happen...), is to ruin turbo and cylinders due to dirt particles passing through filter.

Regarding water - of course I am not talking about flooding filter with water, but when you have a box and twisted air flow that will "shake off" any large water droplets allowing only mist to get in. What I am thinking is this scenario: you drive normally through puddles, rain, and so on. Air filter gets wet, just like you said, and at some point you go WOT. Suddenly all water from the filter gets sucked in. I know that the OEM style paper filters can contain a lot of water, so if this got suddenly released, could cause issues... maybe or maybe not. Let me see (loud thinking) - at say 2000 RPM you actually have 1000 full cycles/minute, which makes - assumption - 1000 suctions of 1.6 L, 1600 L of air per minute (having turbo at say about 1.5 at 2000 RPM that would make 2400 L of air). Put it in one second time frame - 40 L of air, 16.7 cycles - I guess water content might be negligible for water lock purposes (sure it would hinder performance for a moment or two).
Any comment?


Laminar flow - well, it happens that I had a few semesters on fluid mechanics... so I know what you are trying accomplish here. Smooth surface, resonator delete, less drastic turns. Did you ever measure simple pressure drop stock airbox vs SRI/CAI at different air flows - from idle to 100% WOT? Theory is one thing, calculations another, but many factors are still left out... Just an experiment. That would be a nice proof. Did you actually calculate Re for WOT at different engine speeds?
 

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high flow filters will always catch less... its a nature of the beast... but the issues that can be caused by this less filtration is so negligible that no one really has proof to show that there is an issue.... you can get a pre-filter that'll help with catching some more dirt and some of them even repel water... which will help with your other concerns...
 

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Get a filter wrap. A few of the dudes have one. Maybe they can post a link for it and you wouldn't need to worry as much IMO. I have 2 filters I swap/clean every few month.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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You are in FL so you do not know what snow is :D
i live in an area that when they say scattered showers... they actually mean monsoons. i have a video on my phone from my CCTV system that shows a 10min shower that passed my house... straight blew a tree in my yard sideways... so much wind and water hit my water pump area that it popped the GFI breaker under a protected/sealed GFI cover... when you get snow... we get rain... lots of rain. quickly...
 

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