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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, been a while since I have posted so I thought I'd contribute with a tutorial from some pictures I took during my install.
Please review the tutorial, inspect your vehicle, and gather and materials/tools needed prior to beginning install.

SRI/CAI
You'll need:
Philips head screwdriver
Flat head screwdriver
Metric socket set
Ratchet
10 inch Socket extension bar
Allen Wrench set
Pliers/Multitool
Flashlight

Resonator Delete pipe will need:
Vicegrips/pliers/multitool
Screwdriver
Papertowels/Clean rag
Flashlight
(Read unpacking section then skip to step 15)


Unpacking:
Lets get started. Unpack your SRI/CAI/Resonator Delete indoors. Inspect parts and be sure to feel inside the pipes to make sure there is no loose metal shavings left behind from the manufacturing process. You don't want this stuff being sucked into your turbo or motor. Pay special attention to the nipple as well and make sure that the interior does not have any metal shavings that might break loose. If you find any debris remove it and wash/rinse/dry the pipes. Inspect your couplers/adapters for cracks.
All set? Lets rock!


I have a fully removed Stock intake for reference, this is what you'll be removing.
Note each step refers to the photo below it.
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1.) Use you ratchet with the extension to remove these 3 bolts from the factory air box
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2.) Use your Pliers/Multitool to squeeze these hose clamps and remove these hoses. The Top one will be attached to the barb fitting of the CAI, (The bottom hose will be vented to air, you can leave the hose on and tuck it away to reduce BOV sound or remove the hose completely at the bypass valve to increase the volume of the bypass valve venting).
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3.) Carefully slide a flat head screwdriver or another flat object under these clips to lift them up, releasing the intake port. Try not to mar the plastic.
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4.) Removing the stock intake hose can be the most difficult part of this install as they really like to say together. Undoing all of these hose clamps and removing it in pieces will help smooth the process. Remove the hose by wiggling it back and forth while pulling them apart.
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5.) Now we'll be putting the first parts in. The top portion of the intake (SRI) will be attached with the sleeve adapter and two hose clamps like this. Get the hose clamps secure but not cranked down yet. for ease of install and removal make sure that bolt heads face toward the top-front of engine bay.
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6.) You can choose to reattach the Crankcase Breather hose back to the intake as in the picture below, or place an oil catch can inline between this and the intake. The benefit of an oil catch can here is a small reduction of carbon and oil in your intake and valves. If you decide to use oil catch can(s) your best bang for the buck will be to place one on the Positive Crankcase Ventilation hose which I have pointed out as a courtesy in the other photo.
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PCV HOSE
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7.) Install the mounting bracket to the bolt hole previously occupied by the factory air box and mount your top intake pipe, (SRI portion) but don't crank down yet.
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8.) Install the protective trim as shown in the photo below, (not needed for SRI)
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9.) Prepare the Filter for mounting by using the highlighted adapter fittings. For SRI install you will complete this step and mount the filter to the SRI pipe using the hose clamp and skip to step 14.
For the CAI complete the filter assembly as shown below and mount to the cold air extension pipe at the straight portion of pipe using the hose clamp.
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10.) Time to go underneath the car. Remove the drivers side fender guard partially by removing these clips with a Philips head screwdriver. If the free spin but don't back out, work your hand to the back side of the clip and push them out while continuing to turn them.
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11.) Detach the Fog lamp chord and tuck it out of the way to prevent snagging it.
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12.) Carefully insert the completed Cold Air extension + Filter assembly from below the car up and into the engine bay as shown (Filter not installed for ease of visualization, note the fog lamp chord that may snag if not removed.)

13.) Attach SRI to CAI extension using adapter sleeve and hose clamps. To accomplish this, it may be necessary to place the sleeve and clamps fully onto the SRI pipe, line up the CAI extension, and back the sleeve adapter down onto the CAI extension. Tighten hose clamps.

Sorry Guys ran up against max pictures per post. From here on out it's pretty straight forward


14.) Check for clearance issues/rubbing along entire SRI and CAI length. Ensure that wires and hoses will not be rubbed and broken by vibrations along intake under load.
Start buttoning up and tightening bolts/clamps from cold air side toward engine. For CAI Make absolutely sure that the filter assembly will fit behind the fender splash guard and that the splash guard is correctly reinstalled with both clips before moving on. If there is too much stress on the splash guard from the filter, or if you don't replace the clips, it will be at least a $100 tuition fee for the lesson when the guard loosens and gets ripped off or rubbed into oblivion by the ground or the tire.

15.) If you are installing the resonator delete pipe do so now by undoing these hose clamps, otherwise please skip this section.
Note that you may have to replace the hose clamps due to there being no way to tighten it if you get screwed by KIA like I did. Observe the bolts on the clamps are not slotted to accept a screwdriver to tighten.
****Honhon has informed me that these are caps that can be removed*****
Failure to sufficiently tighten these clamps will cause the hose to fail under boost. Just as important, do not crank down too hard on these clamps or you may collapse the aluminum Resonator Delete Pipe and leak boost.
Remove both hose clamps.
Remove stock resonator pipe.
Inspect both hoses and interior of stock resonator delete pipe for oil and wipe down the interior of both hoses to make sure that they don't slip under boost.
Inspect again to make sure there is no debris left inside the hoses by the rags/papertowel.
Install Resonator Delete pipe using new hose clamps and tighten down.
Check to make sure it is secure by carefully tugging both hoses apart and checking for play in the pipe/hose connections.
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16.) Double check that all bolts and clamps are tightened down.

17.) Optional Reset ECU.

18.) Start her up, listen to her purr and enjoy the fruits of your labors!
 

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Uhm call me crazy but I took the resonator out measured the length and width and got a 2ft exhaust pipe of same width and cut it and installed lol literally 4 dollars and 10 minutes of time. Eh but I guess it's not as pretty or professional.
 

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Please Please say you didn't hold the pipe on your car while cutting
 

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LMAO.... anyways... a good reason to purchase a resonator delete pipe is for the bead rolled ends if you don't have a bead roller so the turbo has less of a chance of blowing the pipe out...

also... the stock OEM hose clamps are re-usable. you just pop that cone piece off

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that you have circled to the right. theres a slot and a 5/16 / 8mm head under there

good work on a DIY though
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Post edited to reflect reusability of stock hose clamps.
 

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Lol it's galvanized it will not rust and of course I did not cut it on the car it was just for the picture. Also it's over half an inch into the rubber on each side it would take upwards of 80psi to even think about blowing out. I knew you guys would critique it which is awesome. but it's been on there for about 5000 miles and it's perfectly fine.
 

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Wait till you start pushing more psi on it with a tune. It will pop off eventually. No biggie though just push it back in lol.

Glad you didnt cut it on the car. Would have to internet slap you lol!
 

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Lol @ internet slap... I'm a diy kind of guy I like to build my own stuff and save money for bigger things like tunes and exhaust. If you think that's crude you should see my homemade cold air intake and bov mod lol. Oh btw for the record 6thelement has awesome products If I did not drive a kia I could probably afford to just buy all their stuff instead ha.
 

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In another thread itsjustme had a picture of modified crimpers for beading. ... I have a set that I tried on a old exhaust adapter and they work great.... for $20 or so, you can make your own bead crimper and do it to your pipe... and it will come in handy in future if you ever do fmic or hot pipe upgrade. It may still be holding but one day it will blow off.... especially with the gear clamps....
 
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