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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Okay guys, this is my first time starting a thread and I'm not for sure that I'm even doing it correctly. I bought a used throttle body off ebay from a 2011 Hyundai Elantra with 40k miles for right at $100 including shipping. I have been waiting for a day when I could get everything together and get it installed and today was the day. Also, while i was switching out the throttle body I decided to do the coolant bypass just for future reference so I don't have to get antifreeze everywhere if switching it back to stock. This install was fairly easy if you have any experience with working on anything mechanical or if you just learn by trial and error. Changing the parts was easy, however, me being the perfectionist I am, it took me longer than anticipated because 1. I didn't like the way the coolant hoses were being routed 2. I compromised with what I have and managed to barely squeeze the intake tube on the bigger throttle body (not sure if anyone else just use the stock tube) 3. I like all the clamps to match and not just look rigged up. So I will post the pictures and I am open to suggestions or criticism or whatever anyone wants to say. I did take the car out for a quick test drive after i finished it, mainly to make sure everything was put back together properly, and I already noticed the throttle response was better. I am driving it about 60-70 miles tonight to church and back so I will update everyone then.

I already have resonator delete, factory airbox delete and just put a spectre filter on stock tubing, BPV to BOV, engine bay dress up kit.
I have a 6th element CAI on the way, mishimoto J-line intercooler on the way (thanks @playwithmymind), and I just got my NST crank pulley in today. Catch Cans are next
 

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That was a stretch getting that hose on there lol. Stinks that it didn't have the bung for the nipple.
 

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Be careful with that hose done like that. There have been several people that have done that and the hose blow off. I would do several hard pulls and check it.
 

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After I drilled and tapped mine I was thinking, why not just tee into the pcv line instead of drill and tapping all these throttle bodies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did put the factory clamp back on it I just took the pic before I had put it back on... Also, I read where people were throwing CELs with the vacuum line tee'd in and I did not want to take any chances on throwing one so I just did it by way of the factory set up. Installation was very easy it was just a little adjusting here and there that was the frustrating part
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am actually very impressed with how my little race car drives now haha. I didn't notice a big difference in bottom end but mid to top end has a bigger punch and the power is consistent now instead of having a peak at maybe like 5000-5500. I was even waiting to shift at like 6500 and it was still pulling just as good as it was from like 5000-6000. Very happy with this mod
 

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And I have no clue why the pictures are so big so if anyone wants to give me any advice on that it would be greatly apprectiated.
when you reply click the icon above that says "insert image" then upload from your computer at least this is how it works for me.
good job on the TB my eyes were wowed by how you managed to get the stock pipe on the 60TB. i tried it myself but i gave up and just ordered some pipes lol.
i was gonna get a barb put in mine but i got the 3TBS throttle spacer instead.
for around $150 you can get the shafts redone depends on what size our opening is at the IM. i haven't done this yet.
i read different years on VTs had differences maybe even inbetween our platforms too.
IM range from 60-64 mm. Largest the TB can be bored is 64 mm and shaft machined down as well.
TB on back side needs to match the IM opening or be a little smaller.
At 64 mm bore it will only flow 60 mm worth air anyway. But the flow difference is significant at 64 mm bore and shaft machined.
trdtoy told me 60 mm flows +12% over stock and the 64 mm with machined shaft flows around +45% over stock!

whats your install plans for the mishimoto intercooler?
 

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I just ordered a 60mm throttle body from a local scrap yard. $90 CDN

2015 Elantra, 15k on it... part #35100-2E000

And I have all the required hardware to drill and tap.

Should be starting this tomorrow.

Anyone else here do this recently?


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I just ordered a 60mm throttle body from a local scrap yard. $90 CDN

2015 Elantra, 15k on it... part #35100-2E000

And I have all the required hardware to drill and tap.

Should be starting this tomorrow.

Anyone else here do this recently?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bryan - does this mean you're going to CNC bore out all the inner-diameter material and then put on a bigger butterfly flap? Post photos please.
 

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No you have to purchase the throttle body,
2011-2016 Elantra or soul.

Here is the model# 35100-2E000 for the Elantra, you can also find the write up on how to do it on the Veloster turbo forum.

Pretty easy and cheap to do...








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No you have to purchase the throttle body,
2011-2016 Elantra or soul.

Here is the model# 35100-2E000 for the Elantra, you can also find the write up on how to do it on the Veloster turbo forum.

Pretty easy and cheap to do...








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just FYI, I ended up using 5/16 barb for evap hose, recommended 1/4 was way too small. Easily can find in home depot performance.
For coolant bypass 90 degree 1/2 pex fitting is working pretty good also.

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Just FYI, I ended up using 5/16 barb for evap hose, recommended 1/4 was way too small. Easily can find in home depot performance.
For coolant bypass 90 degree 1/2 pex fitting is working pretty good also.

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Sounds good. I won’t do the bypass... the winter months can get pretty cold.


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Here she is.. came a little later then expected so I’ll start tomorrow.

I have to drill and top, and then I I’ll need to clean it up... she’s filthy.





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