DIY: CDV / clutch regulator bypass
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DIY: CDV / clutch regulator bypass

This is a discussion on DIY: CDV / clutch regulator bypass within the Kia Forte Turbo DIY Section forums, part of the Kia Forte Turbo Garage category; I will show you all how I went about doing the CDV (clutch delay valve) or cluch regulator bypass. I took a lot of pics ...

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Thread: DIY: CDV / clutch regulator bypass

  1. #1
    Senior Member 15ForteSX's Avatar
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    DIY: CDV / clutch regulator bypass

    I will show you all how I went about doing the CDV (clutch delay valve) or cluch regulator bypass.
    I took a lot of pics so it should be a piece of cake as long as you take your time and use common sense.
    I find that its best to have space to layout the parts coming off the car and arrange the bolts so you know where they go.
    You need the clutch hydraulic line from an 2012 forte part # 41631-1M200
    You also need a jack, jack stands, socket set, towels, drain pan, light
    You will need various tools. Sockets (10,12), various extensions, 10-11mm wrenches, plyers or needle noses,
    phillips, flathead, a bottle of brake fluid, and 1/4 hose to bleed the clutch. the more tools the easier.

    the part.
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    jack up the car and apply jack stands.
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    view of the front under the hood.
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    push the middle button down and pull the 2 tabs out.
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    use a phillips screwdriver and unsnap the 2 clamps to remove the intake box cover.
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    remove the air filter.
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    where the 2 standing extensions and where my finger is pointing there are 3 bolts.
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    out comes the rest of the intake box.
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    Last edited by 15ForteSX; 04-24-2017 at 08:43 AM.
    ticobiker likes this.
    XXR 530 18x8 rims, KIA 3K emblems, Philips H11 Diamond Vision halogen bulbs, Tork subframe collars,
    CDV/clutch bypass, 2nd cat gutted, 65A bushings, XE ORHP v1, TurboXS BOV, 84400 MAP,
    custom grill, TB coolant bypass, XE 3TBS, 60mm TB, XE cold pipe, SXTH CAI, AEM dryflow filter,
    89 octane gas, KIA oil filters, Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30, Redline MT-85 GL-4 75W85, Amsoil HD coolant

  2. #2
    Senior Member 15ForteSX's Avatar
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    view with the air box out.
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    unbolt the positive and negative terminals and tuck the cables to the side.
    i took apart the negative side cables to keep them tucked away better.
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    unbolt the bracket that holds the battery down.
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    remove battery and place on a table or higher up surface.
    don't place battery on the ground as this might drain it.
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    on to the ECU, pull the 2 clips towards the middle to unlock the 2 plugs.
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    pull the 2 plugs upwards to remove.
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    where the 2 standing extensions and where my finger is pointing there are 3 bolts.
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    out goes the ECU.
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    XXR 530 18x8 rims, KIA 3K emblems, Philips H11 Diamond Vision halogen bulbs, Tork subframe collars,
    CDV/clutch bypass, 2nd cat gutted, 65A bushings, XE ORHP v1, TurboXS BOV, 84400 MAP,
    custom grill, TB coolant bypass, XE 3TBS, 60mm TB, XE cold pipe, SXTH CAI, AEM dryflow filter,
    89 octane gas, KIA oil filters, Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30, Redline MT-85 GL-4 75W85, Amsoil HD coolant

  3. #3
    Senior Member 15ForteSX's Avatar
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    now on to the battery tray.
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    where the 2 standing extensions and where my finger is pointing there are 3 bolts.
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    where the standing extension sits is another bolt.
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    and one more to detach the positive cable harness from the tray.
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    squeeze 2 ends off the tray.
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    now the tray is free.
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    view without the tray and the cables out of the way.
    sorry bad pic.
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    the harness in my hand needs to be peeled back to gain access to the CDV.
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    but first squeeze out this end to free up the harness a little.
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    pulling back the harness reveals the well hidden CDV.
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    closer look.
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    even closer.
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    PLP likes this.
    XXR 530 18x8 rims, KIA 3K emblems, Philips H11 Diamond Vision halogen bulbs, Tork subframe collars,
    CDV/clutch bypass, 2nd cat gutted, 65A bushings, XE ORHP v1, TurboXS BOV, 84400 MAP,
    custom grill, TB coolant bypass, XE 3TBS, 60mm TB, XE cold pipe, SXTH CAI, AEM dryflow filter,
    89 octane gas, KIA oil filters, Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30, Redline MT-85 GL-4 75W85, Amsoil HD coolant

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  5. #4
    Senior Member 15ForteSX's Avatar
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    layout of my parts.
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    under the wheel well area on the driver side there is a side splash cover.
    it has 2 bolts attached at the top and a plastic push screw insert at the bottom.
    no need to remove the wheel.
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    looking straight up from under the car you can see where the hydraulic line runs along the frame.
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    i added this step for anytime if you feel the ground cable or bracket that holds the clutch line gets in your way.
    it's not necessary to do this but i did to make enough room to work. i removed the bracket to the clutch line after i had started draining the fluid.
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    start with the end closest to you and with 11mm wrench unscrew the line.
    have a drain pan under the car to catch the fluid that leaks out the line.
    all the fluid from the reservoir will drain out so if its good fluid still, drain into a clean pan for reuse.
    i had started to use my dirty drain pan until i saw the fluid was still good so i quickly switched to a clean aluminum baking pan.
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    i had cut out a small piece of a plastic water bottle to catch any additional fluid that might drip from removing the other side of the line
    but it didn't drip much so there was no need. just a small towel under the line should do.
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    i realized afterwards that it may not be necessary to separate the line from the CDV.
    the line and the CDV may come loose all together. you can skip some steps to the CDV removal to remove as one piece i think.
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    after each end is loose, detach the line off the clip from the body of the car.
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    new line above untouched, old line below.
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    XXR 530 18x8 rims, KIA 3K emblems, Philips H11 Diamond Vision halogen bulbs, Tork subframe collars,
    CDV/clutch bypass, 2nd cat gutted, 65A bushings, XE ORHP v1, TurboXS BOV, 84400 MAP,
    custom grill, TB coolant bypass, XE 3TBS, 60mm TB, XE cold pipe, SXTH CAI, AEM dryflow filter,
    89 octane gas, KIA oil filters, Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30, Redline MT-85 GL-4 75W85, Amsoil HD coolant

  6. #5
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    Another 15ForteSX excellent photo set and write up. Even though I have an automatic - when doing this mod, it would be a good/convenient time to replace the manual cable shift bushings visible in the 4th photo from the bottom.
    What does this clutch delay valve install do or change or improve?
    15ForteSX likes this.

  7. #6
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    Good job on all the pics and the write up so far. It makes a huge difference in how the car drives and is a cheap mod. It's just a bit time consuming but well worth.
    15ForteSX likes this.

  8. #7
    Senior Member 15ForteSX's Avatar
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    for those who wanted to take off the line as one piece, use a flat head to lift up the metal clip furthest back to release the line.
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    picture without the CDV.
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    here's the little trouble maker.
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    i started to carefully bend the lines to make as similar to the original as possible.
    pull out the coil a little to give it more length where needed and just go easy and do very moderate bends.
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    then i realized, DUH, i need to shape it with the CDV on lol.
    maybe you one piece removers will have a laugh at my expense.
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    so i decided to tape the flat edges of the original line to the ground to free up my hands for the new line to reshape.
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    after getting the line as close as i could get to the original, i started to install the line from the back of the engine to the front.
    insert the brass end and push down on the clip to lock into place.
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    attach new line to the existing clip that holds the line to the body
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    insert other end of line and screw in until tightly snug.
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    after both ends are secure and line attached to the body, i used my hands to sorta squeeze bend the line to a more perfect fit.
    it wasn't off by much at all but just to have clearance for the plastic cover and to not be touching the transmission housing.
    be aware that i'm not pulling or pushing the line but bending it along the body.
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    XXR 530 18x8 rims, KIA 3K emblems, Philips H11 Diamond Vision halogen bulbs, Tork subframe collars,
    CDV/clutch bypass, 2nd cat gutted, 65A bushings, XE ORHP v1, TurboXS BOV, 84400 MAP,
    custom grill, TB coolant bypass, XE 3TBS, 60mm TB, XE cold pipe, SXTH CAI, AEM dryflow filter,
    89 octane gas, KIA oil filters, Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30, Redline MT-85 GL-4 75W85, Amsoil HD coolant

  9. #8
    Senior Member 15ForteSX's Avatar
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    now that the new line is installed, its time to add brake fluid. fill to the max. now its time to bleed the trapped air out of the clutch line.
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    get some kind of cup or jar and put some brake fluid in it so that the 1/4 tube stays in the fluid the entire time of the bleeding process.
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    i found that my jar sat in a crevice snug. take off the bleeder cap and attach your hose.
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    with either a 10-11mm wrench, you will need to slightly loosen the bleeder to let the air out as someone pumps the clutch.
    i had my g/f pump the clutch 10 times or so and then while she held the clutch down, i loosen the bleeder to let out the air then tighten.
    she did have to lift the clutch petal from the floor each time i let out the air.
    i did about 5-6 sets just to make sure i had all the air out. when you see mostly fluid coming out and no air bubbles then it should be good to go.
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    with everything done, its time to put the car parts back in.
    i wont spend too much time on this as you could reference the removal process above for details.
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    all in all, definitely worth doing for the price. if i had to, i would only put the original line back for warranty purposes.
    the feel is much smoother and the engagement of gears is quicker. BIG thanks to all those to researched and experimented to get us to a working solution.
    XXR 530 18x8 rims, KIA 3K emblems, Philips H11 Diamond Vision halogen bulbs, Tork subframe collars,
    CDV/clutch bypass, 2nd cat gutted, 65A bushings, XE ORHP v1, TurboXS BOV, 84400 MAP,
    custom grill, TB coolant bypass, XE 3TBS, 60mm TB, XE cold pipe, SXTH CAI, AEM dryflow filter,
    89 octane gas, KIA oil filters, Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30, Redline MT-85 GL-4 75W85, Amsoil HD coolant

  10. #9
    Senior Member staax's Avatar
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    Good job in the full DIY.

    Not sure why you disconnected the line from the CDV, the vid I sent you shows you just removing the entire line. An extra step that was not needed.

  11. #10
    Senior Member 15ForteSX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by valleyracer View Post
    Another 15ForteSX excellent photo set and write up. Even though I have an automatic - when doing this mod, it would be a good/convenient time to replace the manual cable shift bushings visible in the 4th photo from the bottom.
    What does this clutch delay valve install do or change or improve?
    i would have done so except im broke atm. there might already be good install instructions for this but if i ever get to this i'll probably take some pictures at least.
    as far as the cdv, manufactures insert these as protection to keep it from engaging too quickly supposedly the shock from fast engagement at high revs can do damage to the drivetrains.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch_delay_valve
    but basically i think it slows down the fluid by adding like a separate compartment that the fluid has to flow through thereby adding the delay and as a result slower engagement.
    by removing the compartment, the fluid flows smoothly and i guess faster like a straight pipe on an exhaust which gives you a quicker engagement.
    XXR 530 18x8 rims, KIA 3K emblems, Philips H11 Diamond Vision halogen bulbs, Tork subframe collars,
    CDV/clutch bypass, 2nd cat gutted, 65A bushings, XE ORHP v1, TurboXS BOV, 84400 MAP,
    custom grill, TB coolant bypass, XE 3TBS, 60mm TB, XE cold pipe, SXTH CAI, AEM dryflow filter,
    89 octane gas, KIA oil filters, Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30, Redline MT-85 GL-4 75W85, Amsoil HD coolant

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