How well does our FMIC work?
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How well does our FMIC work?

This is a discussion on How well does our FMIC work? within the Tork Motorsports forums, part of the Vendors category; They say a picture is worth a 1000 words, a video... https://www.facebook.com/24129702927...0514689353470/ It was 82 degrees ambient in the shop tonight. Just to give you ...

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    How well does our FMIC work?

    They say a picture is worth a 1000 words, a video...

    https://www.facebook.com/24129702927...0514689353470/

    It was 82 degrees ambient in the shop tonight. Just to give you a little perspective of how well our core is cooling.
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    damn bra... i really like this... im liking the pipe color too.... does humidity affect the intercooler much?



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    Wait Wait Wait a second... lol You are saying ambient was 82° but yet the intercooler is cooling to 75° (and on Facebook it says ambient was 70°). Either it has a sprayer on it to go below ambient or one of the thermometers are off.

    The 5° (70°ambient and 75°cold pipe) difference is very believable but I am more curious as to why the hot pipe was only 115°. Could this be from the upgraded turbo and being able to run lower boost pressure?
    My hot pipe runs 180-220° just during normal driving and cold pipe is still normally within 10-15° of ambient. Once it starts pulling 15 psi the IATs drop down to 5-7° above ambient.
    For those that don't know a intercooler will cool better when air is forced through vs normal cruising (non boost) so don't expect awesome numbers just driving around town and it is not all to do with the IC, the heat from the radiator fan heats the intake and raises IATs also.
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    Quote Originally Posted by honhon View Post
    damn bra... i really like this... im liking the pipe color too.... does humidity affect the intercooler much?
    Humidity will effect everything, lol. This core is one of the best currently being offered for the platform... so even if you had extreme humidity... it would be your best option.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Playwithmymind View Post
    Wait Wait Wait a second... lol You are saying ambient was 82° but yet the intercooler is cooling to 75° (and on Facebook it says ambient was 70°). Either it has a sprayer on it to go below ambient or one of the thermometers are off.

    The 5° (70°ambient and 75°cold pipe) difference is very believable but I am more curious as to why the hot pipe was only 115°. Could this be from the upgraded turbo and being able to run lower boost pressure?
    My hot pipe runs 180-220° just during normal driving and cold pipe is still normally within 10-15° of ambient. Once it starts pulling 15 psi the IATs drop down to 5-7° above ambient.
    For those that don't know a intercooler will cool better when air is forced through vs normal cruising (non boost) so don't expect awesome numbers just driving around town and it is not all to do with the IC, the heat from the radiator fan heats the intake and raises IATs also.
    Thermometers are no off, lol.

    Shop temps were 80 to 82 degrees (dyno station verified).

    What you are not taking into account is the 25,000 CFM fan in front of the car. That will drop temps below ambient. If we were to just run the FMIC without any air flow across the front of it, then you would see a drastic difference.

    You are curious about the hot side being 115 degrees? Bigger compressor wheel has to work less to make more power, simply compressor wheel math.

    We did see temps getting to 140 degrees during tuning but we were still under 19 psi. I expect to see the temps starting to increase when we start running high boost levels.

    Thanks,

    John

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    I'd be curious as to what normal driving would push through the FMIC. I seriously doubt 25K CFM is going to flow across the core with even WOT driving. Not diminishing the results in the slightest, but perhaps a real world test might be more demonstrative?
    #Fear the K!

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    Quote Originally Posted by shagger View Post
    I'd be curious as to what normal driving would push through the FMIC. I seriously doubt 25K CFM is going to flow across the core with even WOT driving. Not diminishing the results in the slightest, but perhaps a real world test might be more demonstrative?
    Normal driving at 20 MPH? or 120 MPH? Speed is going to play a huge part in air flow across the FMIC. So, the only way we can maintain a constant is to put a fan in front of the car and measure before and after pulls. The fan we have simulates 20 to 25 MPH worth of air moving across the front of the car. With it being more directed at the FMIC, it would represent 35 to 40 MPH.

    Real world testing is going to be difficult without installing probes in the upper and lower piping. If, the community wants us to, we will. The problem being, when we do this then people will say the sensors are not reading properly, lol.

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    I would have thought that 25,000 CFM would represent a higher speed than 40 mph. I know jack about aerodynamics so I guess I am talking out my ass either way! EIther way, it looks as if horsepower was around 240 and torque was at 220? What other bolt-ons were in that car?
    #Fear the K!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TorkMe View Post
    Thermometers are no off, lol.

    Shop temps were 80 to 82 degrees (dyno station verified).

    What you are not taking into account is the 25,000 CFM fan in front of the car. That will drop temps below ambient. If we were to just run the FMIC without any air flow across the front of it, then you would see a drastic difference.
    I'm going to pick this apart, (1st) what I was saying is here you said ambient was 82° and on Facebook you stated ambient was 70°.

    Quote Originally Posted by TorkMe View Post
    Normal driving at 20 MPH? or 120 MPH? Speed is going to play a huge part in air flow across the FMIC. So, the only way we can maintain a constant is to put a fan in front of the car and measure before and after pulls. The fan we have simulates 20 to 25 MPH worth of air moving across the front of the car. With it being more directed at the FMIC, it would represent 35 to 40 MPH.
    (2nd) So you are saying at 25-30 mph there is enough wind going thru the IC to cool it below ambient? Not possible, do the math, for there to be a 12°F drop in ambient IC temperature (believe Evaporative Cooling is the only way to achieve that) and doing the math it seems if there was no water being applied you would have to have 168% humidity in the air. Point is in any real life situation at any speed you will never have colder air exiting the IC lower than what the ambient temperature is (unless using a sprayer or meth inj). Anyone with a front mount, if you are using the ambient temp reading from the cars gauge (dash or ECU) remember it is sitting behind the FMIC picking up the extra heat. Best thing to do is carefully open the harness and relocate the sensors.

    Quote Originally Posted by TorkMe View Post
    Real world testing is going to be difficult without installing probes in the upper and lower piping. If, the community wants us to, we will. The problem being, when we do this then people will say the sensors are not reading properly, lol.
    It's the only way to make sure people know what they are buying actually performs and the reason I chose to go with the setup I have. Never once did I question the sensors or gauge used because every result posted had the same numbers. When you posted a link to Facebook and someone reads it then comes back here and finishes reading the post here and it has 2 different posted numbers one of which gives a air to air IC a 109% efficiency I have to question it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by shagger View Post
    I would have thought that 25,000 CFM would represent a higher speed than 40 mph. I know jack about aerodynamics so I guess I am talking out my ass either way! EIther way, it looks as if horsepower was around 240 and torque was at 220? What other bolt-ons were in that car?
    I wish that was the case, lol.

    The car had all the bolts on's and a forged engine.

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